belizeanbus Posted February 25, 2006 Share Posted February 25, 2006 Hi all... I'm still trying to diagnose an EA82 SPFI install that I cannot get to run. I finally found a day to devote to it, and I'm having no luck. I poured fresh gas in the injector, and jumped it off my truck becuase the battery is getting a little weak from sitting. It turns over and over and then finally fires up. I can rev it all I want for about 4 seconds and it actually sounds like a functional engine. then the gas is gone and she dies. So, I know I have spark and of course air. So, I'm thinking about my fuel system. I didn't disconnect any of the fuel lines during the engine swap. So, I took a multi meter to the electrical harness at the fuel pump. I have been trying to hear if that thing makes any noise when I turn on the ignition, but it makes not a sound. So, I'm checking to see if it is getting juice. I don't know much about using the meters, so I turn it to DC Voltage, and I checked it across the poles of the battery just to make sure I was in the right mode. Gave me a reading of about 13.3. I guess that's about right. I put the little tester needles in the harness, and turn on the ignition and I get nothing to go on. The meter is all over the place. Goes from 6 to 2 to -2 and back again. Won't stay still, but it certainly doesn't go to 12, which is what I was looking for. Anyone have ideas? By the way, if you can tell me what to check, please give me a little description of where to find it, my lingo is not so good, especieally with all of these fusible links and various harnesses. Thanks as always belizeanbus Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hooziewhatsit Posted February 26, 2006 Share Posted February 26, 2006 you can connect the green test connectors under the hood, turn the key to 'on' (not start) and it will make the fuel pump pulse on/off at about 1 second intervals. A relay under the hood should click with the same rithym. While this is going on, use your meter to check the voltage at the fuel pump power connector (DC voltage). You should be able to see it go from 0v-12v and back (0v to -12v depending on how you have the leads from the meter hooked up). If that checks out, the pump is probably dead. You can use two wires to jump 12v to it and see if it turns on. If you don't have 12v at the harness, then you have other issues... of which I'm not sure, since I've never had to debug past a dead pump. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MilesFox Posted February 26, 2006 Share Posted February 26, 2006 ground the fuel pimp directly to the body. if this does not work the fuel pum p itself is shot Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
belizeanbus Posted February 26, 2006 Author Share Posted February 26, 2006 With the green test connectors connected, and the key 'on,' I get the clicking under the hood (presumably the injector???) at about a 4 second interval. I get no noise from the fuel pump. When I disconnect the harness at the pump and attach the multimeter, I get no voltage surge coinciding with the pulses I hear under the hood. The reading on the meter jumps around a bit, but stays close to zero, and this is not timed with the pulsing under the hood... just random. This is the only multimeter I've ever used, and it's a craftman, so I figure I can trust the results. Any ideas where to go next??? A bit more info: I had problems with the ECU once before. It was in another Soob, and that car kept throwing the CEL, and since the problem wouldn't go away, I swapped brains between the two cars and they both ran fine. This car has the problematic one, though. I didn't think this could be the problem, since I can get it to run with fuel in the injector. Could the ECU be not sending a signal to the fuel pump? Anyone know? It also throws a 6 code, which hoozie or someone else on the board (can't remember off hand) told me was normal. As for Miles suggestion, if I'm getting no power to the pump, I assume the ground is not the issue, right? Well, I'll try anything at this point. How do i do it? Jam a wire into the harness, and tie it off on the frame? Thanks all, belizeanbus Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
belizeanbus Posted March 4, 2006 Author Share Posted March 4, 2006 Bump. I’m beginning to think my problem here is rare and cryptic. Bummer. How about helping me with my logic??? This is the first time I do any real troubleshooting, and in my attempt to rationalize the car, I may be overlooking something. Last weekend, I went through and completely redid the timing belts and the disty installation to make sure there was nothing off. I get it to start for a few seconds when there is gas poured into the injector. I am assuming because of this that all of the connections I made in reinstalling the engine are fine. Because it runs. I could be wrong though… I get a clicking from the injector with the green test connectors connected and the key on. I get no sound at the fuel pump. I am assuming that my problem is that the fuel pump is not moving the fuel to the injector. I have no codes and no blown fuses. Could the Engine Control Unit be bad? Is there a way to reset it…something like inserting a paperclip??? I also detect no 12V surge at the fuel pump harness with the green connectors hooked up and the key on. Has anyone ever had to trace this back to its source? What is the source? How do I get there? I’ve got some sun meting the snow, so I may be able to work on it this weekend. Your advice is appreciated. belizeanbus Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Frank B Posted March 4, 2006 Share Posted March 4, 2006 The only way you will count out the pump is to run a long jumper wire from the battery to the positive lead on the pump. Use a small jumper wire to ground out the negative. You could wire it up on a toggle switch untill you find the real problem. Or connect it to a switched source(on with ignition). Just make sure you turn it off if you use the switch!! If you have the time, chase down the source of the clicking sound under the hood. That should lead you to the fuel pump relay. Then trace out the wires in the fuel pump circuit. They go into the body under the rear seat and along the floor of the car so you will have to dig. I would guess there is a bad connection somewhere. Probably somewhere you were working to do the engine job. Did you replace any other parts? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hooziewhatsit Posted March 5, 2006 Share Posted March 5, 2006 I don't exactly know where the fuel pump control unit is (under the dash I think?), but the ticking under the hood is either the EGR solenoid, or the purge control solenoid; so nothing really to do with the fuel pump working or not. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cougar Posted March 5, 2006 Share Posted March 5, 2006 Ok, lets fix this thing! Using your meter, check to make sure that voltage is getting to fuse #11. Place the common meter lead on a good ground and then with the ignition turned to the ON position see if there is voltage on both sides of the fuse. If you look at the top of the fuse closely you will see some small test holes you can put your probe on to check each side of the fuse. If there is voltage there then the next check is the fuel pump relay. The relay should be near the right side of the steering column under the dash. Tapping on the relay lightly may help get it going if the problem is a dirty contact. The manual says it is tied to a blue connector. Check for voltage on the black/white wire and the blue/white wires. If that is ok then you need to check the wire to the pump. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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