skinnyhb Posted April 4, 2006 Share Posted April 4, 2006 see title. thanks. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
torxxx Posted April 4, 2006 Share Posted April 4, 2006 new belts 1/2" breaker bar 22 mm socket 1/2" drive - crank pulley bolt 10mm socket - timing belt covers 12mm socket - dipstick holder, raidiator bolts, alternator/AC tensioner t-belt tensioner bolt rachet to fit the 10 and 12 mm sockets 10mm wrench for the bottom bolts L t-belt covers Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brumby Boy Posted April 4, 2006 Share Posted April 4, 2006 probably good idea to replace idlers at the same time Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
skinnyhb Posted April 4, 2006 Author Share Posted April 4, 2006 sorry, im entirely new to this, but what is a 1/2" breaker bar. also, do i need a timing light or something? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
heartless Posted April 4, 2006 Share Posted April 4, 2006 a breaker bar is longer than a ratchet, does not ratchet, and is used for just what the name implies - breaking bolts loose - use one of these to avoid damaging a ratchet. generally found in the same area of the store that the sockets and ratchets are. they come in the same size ranges as ratchets - 3/8, 1/2, 3/4, etc... no, you do not need a timing light as long as you follow the directions that can be found on this site. using the search function for timing belt replacement will turn up a LOT of info. here is a very nice write up in the USRM complete with pictures. (nice job Miles) http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=50768 one item that you may need to make to do this job properly is for adjusting the tension on the belts. I made one using a piece of scrap metal about 1" wide and about 5" long - in the center drilled a hole and used a large bolt with the threads cut way down, welded on - on either end, mark locations to line up with 2 of the 4 holes in the cam sprocket (diagonal from each other), drill holes and use 2 smaller bolts w/nuts that will fit into the holes on the sprockets...you now have a tensioner tool. will draw up a diagram to show what it looks like and post it shortly... others have used a spare cam sprocket to create a similar tool - i didnt have one, so had to go another route. if you are going to do the belts, highly recommend doing the seals as well - learned this lesson the hard way! you would need to remove the cam sprockets to get to the cam seals, but that is relatively easy to do and well worth the time spent if you have any oil leakage in that area. need to replace the seal behind the crank pulley at the same time. Good luck, happy wrenching! here's the diagram i promised... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Subarian Posted April 4, 2006 Share Posted April 4, 2006 How many miles/years on your water pump? They're a lot easier to replace when you've got the timing belts off anyway, so you might want to do that as preventive maintenance. A breaker bar is nice to have, but if you don't have one, you can use a cheater pipe on the handle of your ratchet to get more leverage. I only recommend doing this if the ratchet is cheap enough you don't mind replacing it or has a replacement guarantee. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
torxxx Posted April 4, 2006 Share Posted April 4, 2006 No a 1/2" rachet will not work. (well it will, but you will be wasting a good rachet by snapping the gears.) The breakerbar is used to get the crank pulley bolt off. You will be putting the breakerbar on the bolt, and then rotate the engine over by hand until the breakerbar is tight against the core support (where the raidator sits.) breaker ba r will be going to the drivers side of the car. Now bump the starter. DO NOT LET THE ENGINE RUN. This will spin the bolt right out of the crank. No need for a tool to hold the flywheel while you try to undo 75 ft/lb bolt. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MilesFox Posted April 4, 2006 Share Posted April 4, 2006 with all the malarky of remmoving the crank pulley, the dipstick, the ac/alt assembly, i would recomend reomoving the timing belt covers. this will make future maintenance breezy! normally one would say do the water pump and oil pump at the same time. but if time or dollars are a limit, leaving the belts open will allow for future replacement of the waterpump without removing the crank pulley or a bunch of plastic. doing the oil pump would require removing the belts, but changing the belts would only be a 15 in job using 2 tools lining up the cam pulleys witn no plastic reference marks, the dot on the ca will line up to the valve cover gasket seam read more: http://www.economysuperstar.com/milesfox/subaru/service/service.htm Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Subarian Posted April 4, 2006 Share Posted April 4, 2006 I've used my Craftsman 1/2 ratchet many times to remove the crank bolt. I have an assortment of cheaters in lengths from about 10 inches to 2 feet. And I've never broken my 20 year old ratchet doing it this way. I currently own my 15th Subaru, so I've had some experience. So a 1/2 inch ratchet will work. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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