skinnyhb

what about the automatic AWD tranny in my donor Legacy that i mentioned?

alright, i have a dead 89 GL wagon D/R 5 speed. i'd like to put a local EJ22T that i found in the car, and perhaps build up the engine a bit. i'm guessing the EA transmission is going to be put under quite a bit of strain by the larger engine. the donor EJ car has an automatic awd transmission. is the AWD Automatic transmission going to work in the 89 GL? or is it going to require insane fabrication? Kenny

i would think that a lifted subaru with a weber carb might not be a 'reliable' car. then again, you never know who owned it like was said before.

oops, double post.

ya, i have a completely rust free 88 GL Wagon 5 speed FI with a blown motor that i bought for $50 that would be perfect.

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------- thats funny, i'm a member on a number of various boards and i've never had to clear out my pm's. i always thought it was only the popular guys who had that many pm's.

sorry. i'm a moron.

alright, i've done a search, but there are so many threads on EJ22s that i can't quite sort out the basics from the 20 some odd pages of search results. could someone point me to a thread that may cover what i am looking for or just quickly answer these questions? keep in mind i know little about the details of the process, however, i am intrigued. 1. what all would i need to do the swap into a stock 89 1.8L gl wagon 5speed D/R 4wd? 1a. what is a price range for the items above? 2. what is the time frame and difficulty level of the process (what are the odds a basic level wrencher could do this with a little help from friends)? 3. where could i find a description of the process? 4. what would the horsepower increase be with the basic swap? 5. what would the horsepower potential be with the engine and car combo? 5a. what would the cost and etc be on the additional horsepower add ons? 6. is it worth it (the basic swap)? thanks in advance, kenny

how does that do on emissions? any idea?

replacing my axle was the first major job i did on my subaru. i absolutely dreaded it for weeks as i had no idea what i was getting into, but its actually pretty easy. i did it by myself, consulting the board when i had issues. i would just tear into it and learn as you go.

when i first got my car, i took it to a mechanic and had them overlook everything and see what i needed to replace or fix. one of those issues was my clutch, which they said i needed to replace. now, a year later, i still ahven't replaced it, and it is still running the same. however there is a slight hesitation/shudder at low end power. i feel like this is just normal when the car is cold and for a car with low power. my question is, if my clutch feels about the same as it did a year ago, there is no way that needs replacing right? it would have gone out or gotten worse by now correct? i think i'm going to replace my o2 sensor in the next few days as i have heard that that may cause the hesitation in the low end. and i have tightened the free play in the clutch, and it is still the same. kenny

as the title states, i feel like i should be able to find this answer easily, but i'm looking into the availability of lift kits for my 88 D/R GL. i'm in Santa Barbara, CA and i know ozified was a good source for southern california, but thier site seems to be down or production seems to be postponed. i'd like to get 4 or 6" of lift and fit ~29" tires. the car is my daily driver with light offroad, mud terrain trail use. i apoligize in advance for the obvious question, but the sticky at the top is somewhat out dated i feel. but is there a locally or nationally available lift kit, or do i need to get different springs or suspension from a junkyard? forgive my newness to the offroad world.

thanks. ya, thats what i figured, to replace two axles instead of one and not be sure if its a good axle seems like more of a pain in the rump roast than necessary when i can get a warrantied one when i really need it. also, i got your PM about the fan shroud, ive been kind of busy so i haven't responded. how much do you want for it? and were talking about the engine fan shroud and not the radiator fan shroud right? i need the engine fan shroud. kenny

alright, the axle boot on my 88 GL is cracked and probably should be replaced in a little while. i have heard the pop noise once or twice when going forward after reversing. the boot on my new 89 GL parts car has no cracks and appears to be in good shape. the car doesn't run, so i have no idea if it pops or anything. a. is it somewhat safe to assume that a car with a good boot has a good axle, other than the obvious that the boot may have been replaced on a bad axle. b. is there any way to test an axle's integrity without driving the car? c. would it be worth the work to switch out the axles rather than just ordering a new axle and knowing the integrity and paying more?

ya, its in the for sale section. if i can get a quick 100 for it, id be very happy to let someone else tackle the work. i just dont have the time or space right now. kenny

hey misled, i sent you a PM.

its more like a support group. its true though. no one else understands. everyone else around me doesn't understand why i dont get a "new" car that i don't have to work on all the time. when i attempt to explain that a $400 payment every month on a new car that i can't work on and have to spend $85/hour for labor to fix it is insane compared to the <$100 parts and a few hours, beers and curses that it takes to get my car running well they just shake their heads.

i was thinking she probably ran out of oil and that was why she was overheating. anyways, what is my first step in figuring out what to do with this thing? kenny

alright, so pending the transaction going down tonight, i will be the new owner of another EA82 Wagon. the good: body is straight, little to no rust, (only) 175,000 miles, everything looks to be alright the bad: its previous owner, who has little to no mechanical knowledge, said that "the car was overheating, so i took it to a mechanic, and they put water in it, but it turns out it was the oil holder that wasn't working, so the motor won't work." she is from brazil, so im not really sure if she expressed what she meant, but it sounded like the car either ran out of oil or water got in the engine or something. i too have little knowledge of the automotive world, but i took a look at everything today and here is what i found. the oil dipstick is covered in a whiteish gray sludge (ill take a picture later). the air filter is covered in the same. transmission fluid looks clean and full. everything else looks relatively ok. or at least as ok as my car does. im not sure what happened or what this sounds like, but i was hoping that someone here could. either way, for $50, i figure i cant go wrong. any help or ideas would be great. ill take some pictures later. thanks in advance. kenny

so i'm a moron. sorry, i was trying to go by memory, but i went and looked. i believe what the hose is connected to is the airconditioner pump or something next to the alternator, about the same size. the hose connects from the unit next to the alternator and goest to the air conditioning on the passenger size and has what looks like an air valve on the drivers side of the hose. it looks like a metal hose that is coated in black rubber. upon further inspection, i believe it is a refrigerant line for my air conditioning.

o ya, and i have a 1988 FI EA82. and when i said "pump" i meant alternator, i think.

alright, so i spent some more fruitless hours on my distributor today. after i disconnected plugs and the cap and i removed the rotor, i found that the rotor i got from my auto parts store was slightly different from the one on my distributor. the one on there currently has a definite shape on the inside copper part, the one i got from the store is completely circular. other than that, they are the same. i attempted to bolt on the one from the store, but it wouldn't quite line up, which caused me about an hour of pain attempting to line it up while the distributor was connected. so i disconnected the distributor and put the old one back on, then i reconnected the distributor and started the car. the timing is slightly off now, but i think i can figure that out on my own with a light tomorrow. however, the car definately has slight, hesitation and low end power issues. so, two questions. is there a major difference between these rotors? also, while i was screwing around with the distributor, when i put any pressure on a thick black hose that ran by the distributor to a pump on the front on the engine, i heard a hiss. so i traced the hose to the bolt that it is connected to on the pump and i found that it was loose. i also found a valve right near the bolt that was slightly open. i tightened the bolt and the valve, and im wondering what i did. sorry for the vagueness, but im slightly automotively retarded. also, i feel like i put the distributor wires on incorrectly, but, if the car starts and runs pretty well, is there any way i screwed it up, or would i definately know?

so im supposed to have gotten my car smogged a little while ago, but in fear of the results, i have put it off. ive got an 88 GL with 71,000 miles. what do you guys usually do before dealing with the test?

wow, i am a moron. i learned two valuable things today. one, waking up before noon to finish a project early only makes me screw things up because i cant think straight. and two, trust the manual. i had written down the corresponding wires, but apparently, my method of code didn't make sense to me later. but i was so sure of myself, that i ignored the manual because it was so different to what i believed to be right. anyways, i made a change or two according to the firing order, and now the wagon is running better than ever. however, now i have another question. what distributor cap and rotor do i need? i told the guy i needed one for my model and year and that it was hitachi, but he gave me the one with the slots instead of the screw holes. did he just screw up, or do i need to specify further?

so i took my 1988 subaru 1.8 5speed from running to not running in an hour when i tried to tune it up a bit. awesome. i will attempt to detail my every move so maybe someone can point out my folly. this morning i pulled in the driveway, put in a new air filter, put on a new gas cap and filled my radiator fluid reservoir. i then started on spark plugs, wires, distributor cap and rotor. after i disconnected the battery, i disconnected all the wires from the top of the distributor. i unscrewed the cap and then looked at the rotor. i believe that i was given the wrong one of both, as my current distributor cap bolts on and the new one just has notches and the current rotor has one screw and the new one has none. so, i put the old cap and rotor back on and reconnected the wires. i then took out the back left (if facing the front of the car) spark plug and put a new one in. however, like a jackass, i had my wrench at a stupid angle and i cracked the ceramic in the new one, so i pulled it out and put the old one back in. giving up on the spark plugs, i went to teh wires, disconnecting one and replacing it one at a time. when that was done, i reconnected the battery and tried to start the car. the engine tries to start, but it wont turn over. if i keep attempting to start it i can smell gasoline. any ideas?