How hard is it to pull the DR 4 speed in my brat?A while ago I attempted the shifter slop fix but the bit I was ussing for a pilot hole broke in the shaft so now I need to pull the tranny to get a bit more force on it.Can I pull the tranny without undoing the clutch?

How hard is it to pull the DR 4 speed in my brat?A while ago I attempted the shifter slop fix but the bit I was ussing for a pilot hole broke in the shaft so now I need to pull the tranny to get a bit more force on it.Can I pull the tranny without undoing the clutch?

 

The tranny will slide off the clutch - you don't have to take the pressure plate and disc off if that's what you mean.

 

Pulling the tranny is a biotch - get the car as high as you can in the air, and start unbolting stuff.

 

As for fixing the shifter slop - it's real freakin hard to get it to go away (I've tried the drill and bolt style - in fact a lot of the pictures out there were from my work on my wagon). I'm pretty much done with 4 speeds, but I had an idea - grind two or four flat spots on the shift rod, and then drill and tap the sides of the shifter sleeve for some 1/4" set screws - you know the kind with the hex drive? You can get them at larger NAPA's and a good hardware store should have a nice selection. This has the advantage that you can use several of them (I was thinking either 4 or 6) which will spread out the load, and the set screws have a dished inset on the bottom that will "bite" into the flat spots on the rod and lock it solid. I may give it a whirl one of these days just to prove the concept, but it should work, and will be a hell of a lot better than a single bolt.

 

GD

even a single 3/8 bolt tighted down with a breaker bar?

Nope - that's what I used - complete with lock washers and everything. I tightened it.... a lot. Any more and I would have stripped it out.

 

The problem is there is no real interface between the rod and the sleeve. It's a smooth surface, and they WILL slip against each other - it's only a matter of time before it works loose again. The problem is not the size of the bolt, or how tight it is - the problem is the hole in the shift rod wearing out from friction against the bolt. One reason the original setup used a spring pin was to minimize the wear. The design is flawed, and repalcing it with a bigger, harder bolt will not fix it. The rod and sleeve need to lock together, and need more surface area to do it. Thus my idea with the set screws. Really not that hard.

 

I've done the "mod" you are refering to on three transmissions - all have come loose eventually.

 

Like I said - best to get the rod and the sleeve to interface on more than just a small surface - and grabbing into the steel of the rod is the only way I can see to do it.

 

GD