Alex GL-10 Posted July 18, 2006 Share Posted July 18, 2006 To start off this engine only has about 80000 miles on it but is leaking oil from every possible place. It was sitting for almost 10 years before I bought it so all the seals dry rotted. I am trying to descide to reseal it or get another engine. If I reseal I am going to get the kit from Subaru, but I don't kno where to get another engine from. Its not a question of if I can do it but which is cheaper and quicker. The engine is an EA82T. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GeneralDisorder Posted July 18, 2006 Share Posted July 18, 2006 Reseal - takes 30 minutes to pull the engine - maybe 45 to 1 hour for the turbo. Get the Fel-Pro gasket set, and buy OEM intake manifold, oil pan, and oil pump seals. If the engine runs good, then you will be better off doing the reseal - you don't know the history of a used engine, and it may have seals that are just as bad or nearly so. The gasket sets are cheap, and doing the reseal will familairize you with the various engine maintenence items - would be a good idea to just replace the belts and tensioners, and toss the old ones in the trunk for spares. Check the water pump too. Leave the timeing belt covers off - they are junk, and when your timing belts snap it takes 15 minutes to put the spares on. (or two hours with the covers in place - you choose). GD Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alex GL-10 Posted July 19, 2006 Author Share Posted July 19, 2006 Reseal - takes 30 minutes to pull the engine - maybe 45 to 1 hour for the turbo. Get the Fel-Pro gasket set, and buy OEM intake manifold, oil pan, and oil pump seals. If the engine runs good, then you will be better off doing the reseal - you don't know the history of a used engine, and it may have seals that are just as bad or nearly so. The gasket sets are cheap, and doing the reseal will familairize you with the various engine maintenence items - would be a good idea to just replace the belts and tensioners, and toss the old ones in the trunk for spares. Check the water pump too. Leave the timeing belt covers off - they are junk, and when your timing belts snap it takes 15 minutes to put the spares on. (or two hours with the covers in place - you choose). GD Thanks for the suggestion. The engine runs great just leaks everywhere. Where do I get the Fel-Pro gasket set? About how much would it cost to do all of the seals, gaskets, and timing belts? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Caboobaroo Posted July 19, 2006 Share Posted July 19, 2006 ok for cost wise, you're looking at about 200 bucks for everything, maybe less. Go to Schucks/Checker/Kragens cause they should have the Fel-Pro gaskets, at least my Checker in Laramie did. 80k miles eh? Reseal it since thats pretty low mileage for that engine and probably doesn't have too many things worn out on it. I agree with GD on the timing belt covers, PITA. I run the backs to help deflect any debris but the fornts I leave off usually but I do like to put them on when I go to shows, which will be in like 10 years when my RX is done:rolleyes: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alex GL-10 Posted July 25, 2006 Author Share Posted July 25, 2006 Does anyone know which gaskets come in the fel pro gasket set from advance auto? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
[HTi]Johnson Posted July 26, 2006 Share Posted July 26, 2006 I'd suggest getting the head gaskets from http://www.rockauto.com they are the felpro perma torque for $20 each. 9392PT is the part number. Don't forget the seals the go between the cam cas and the head. They look like this: Look here for all the parts that you want to get that don't need to be OEM. As for OEM parts, I have never used an OEM part. I've done HGs, Oil Pans, Valve covers, Intake, turbo, exhaust, oil pump reseal, you name it. I have never had a problem. This was all on my wagon that I put over 40k miles on after all the work, no leaks. Maybe I was lucky, or just did the install right. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alex GL-10 Posted July 26, 2006 Author Share Posted July 26, 2006 Is there anywhere I can see a list of all the seals and gaskets for an EA82T (maybe with pics). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
[HTi]Johnson Posted July 26, 2006 Share Posted July 26, 2006 How far into it doyou want to go? Head Gaskets (2) Intake Gaskets (2) Oil Pan (1) Oil Pump Reseal Kit (1) Valve Cover (2) Rear Main (1) Cam Seals (2) Front Main (1) Timing Belts (2) Timing Idlers (pulleys) (3) Valve stem seals (8) Here's a good place for the timing belt kit. What else? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alex GL-10 Posted July 26, 2006 Author Share Posted July 26, 2006 How far into it doyou want to go?Head Gaskets (2) Intake Gaskets (2) Oil Pan (1) Oil Pump Reseal Kit (1) Valve Cover (2) Rear Main (1) Cam Seals (2) Front Main (1) Timing Belts (2) Timing Idlers (pulleys) (3) Valve stem seals (8) Here's a good place for the timing belt kit. What else? I'm going to replace all of the gaskets and seals except for the rear main and front main seals. I already have the engine out and torn down. I'm in the process of cleaning it up. The last couple of months I was driving it oil leaked all over the place. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MilesFox Posted July 26, 2006 Share Posted July 26, 2006 re seal the current motor. otherwise you would get another motor and have it leak too, being in the same boat once again Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
daeron Posted July 26, 2006 Share Posted July 26, 2006 why not do the crank seals as well?? the rear especially, would be impossible to do without pulling the engine again... and with 80,000 miles, and then ten years sitting, they cant be too good even if they arent leaking... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alex GL-10 Posted July 26, 2006 Author Share Posted July 26, 2006 why not do the crank seals as well?? the rear especially, would be impossible to do without pulling the engine again... and with 80,000 miles, and then ten years sitting, they cant be too good even if they arent leaking... I was thinking about that. I'll probably do those too. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alex GL-10 Posted July 26, 2006 Author Share Posted July 26, 2006 I found it. A complete gasket and seal kit. O'Reillys has a fel pro kit for about $165. They said it has every seal and gasket for the engine. I'm gunna order it when I get paid Friday. I'm still tring to get the engine clean anyway so I can wait. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alex GL-10 Posted July 26, 2006 Author Share Posted July 26, 2006 how do i get the piston pin out. the book said i need a special tool. is there any other way? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
daeron Posted July 26, 2006 Share Posted July 26, 2006 heh, in your situation the last thing i would want is more work to do..but I'll say it anyway... How does the engine bay look?? because if you are cleaning the motor up, and re sealing everything, it would be a good time to clean up the engine bay, or maybe even repaint it.. ive seen people use rock-gard material, or something akin to spray on truck bedliner in their engine bay with stellar results.. and i mean, yah, that may be overkill.. but i thought id drop the idea of an engine bay detailing in youre head too. I only thought of it because i just entered a thorough engine bay cleaning into my own list of priorities, after a radiator swap.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GeneralDisorder Posted July 27, 2006 Share Posted July 27, 2006 how do i get the piston pin out. the book said i need a special tool. is there any other way? If you are just doing a reseal there is no need to split the block. Are you doing bearings and rings too? GD Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
[HTi]Johnson Posted July 27, 2006 Share Posted July 27, 2006 You have more of a chance of being attacked by a shark than having your rings/main bearings/pistons be bad (and this is a record attack season)! No really, I doubt that the engine really needs the internals rebuilt. Especially at 80k. Just do the common reseal. If you don't do the rear and front main, you're gunna kick yourself because those take about 30 mins TOTAL (including flywheel/pressure plate removal). Compare that to having the rear seal go out once you get the engine back in. Who votes that he does the rear main seal!? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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