turboguzzi Posted July 26, 2006 Share Posted July 26, 2006 After all the horror stories about rear wheel bearings, am trying to see if somebody else makes same sized double taper roller bearings, like SKF for instance. So far I found that the original manufacture code for the bearing (KOYO) is 46T0807050 but their online catalog doesnt find it. Does anybody got a rear wheel bearing at hand that can be measured? Either used or new? critical dimensions are: internal diameter, outer diameter and length (of the outer case). This will also help me design a simple pull out tool to replace the bearing like the one shown in the service bulletin (but without the 800$ cost...) Will be happy to share the design if it works, that is! Tnxs TG Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Legacy777 Posted July 26, 2006 Share Posted July 26, 2006 Is this on an impreza or legacy? Typically the legacy bearings are fine and last a long time. The dealers were replacing the impreza bearings with legacy bearings for this reason. The other thing some did is did not pack the bearings with good quality grease. The stuff they are shipped in is just packing grease. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nipper Posted July 26, 2006 Share Posted July 26, 2006 What he said. nipper Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
turboguzzi Posted July 26, 2006 Author Share Posted July 26, 2006 forgot to add that i am also a bargain hunter, trying to see if somebody charges less for same. usually if you buy directly from a bearing shop, cost can be half. cheers tg Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nipper Posted July 26, 2006 Share Posted July 26, 2006 then you just need the info off a legacy bearing, im sure somone here has one (even a pos) that they can get the info off of nipper Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
turboguzzi Posted July 26, 2006 Author Share Posted July 26, 2006 right. even if end up buying the std subbie bearing, I still want to make myself a puller set. dimensions wil be useful. thanks. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jsavrtka Posted July 27, 2006 Share Posted July 27, 2006 : : Does anybody got a rear wheel bearing at hand that can be measured? Either used or new? critical dimensions are: internal diameter, outer diameter and length (of the outer case). : : Tnxs TG Well, I have yet to install the ones for my Legacy, part no. 28016AA030. Here are some readings (taken at 25 C -- it's been warm here lately): interal diam: 32.98 mm ext diam: 65.00 mm length (outer): 47.97 mm length (inner): 52.24 mm I still have yet to find a definitive answer in regard to the grease. The grease on this one is definitely more than shipping grease. Others have said that tapered bearings shouldn't be packed more than 30% full (IIRC). Anyway, those are the numbers I got. Have fun with them. jim Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
svxpert Posted July 27, 2006 Share Posted July 27, 2006 <<I still have yet to find a definitive answer in regard to the grease. The grease on this one is definitely more than shipping grease. Others have said that tapered bearings shouldn't be packed more than 30% full (IIRC).>> i've never heard the 30% thing before, doesn't make sense though. looking at the cost of a bucket of wheel bearing grease, compared to a wheel bearing job, why wouldn't you just repack it to be safe? We all know manufatures are cheap, so i would be willing to bet they just use the cheapest shipping grease in there bearings to keep them from rusting. imagine how much $$$ it would cost them to put 2 oz of good grease X 200,000 bearings. my advise, repack with hi temp bearing grease. i have always done it and havent had a problem yet. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nipper Posted July 27, 2006 Share Posted July 27, 2006 <<I still have yet to find a definitive answer in regard to the grease. The grease on this one is definitely more than shipping grease. Others have said that tapered bearings shouldn't be packed more than 30% full (IIRC).>> i've never heard the 30% thing before, doesn't make sense though. looking at the cost of a bucket of wheel bearing grease, compared to a wheel bearing job, why wouldn't you just repack it to be safe? We all know manufatures are cheap, so i would be willing to bet they just use the cheapest shipping grease in there bearings to keep them from rusting. imagine how much $$$ it would cost them to put 2 oz of good grease X 200,000 bearings. my advise, repack with hi temp bearing grease. i have always done it and havent had a problem yet. i never heard of the 30% thing either. You fully pack the bearings as there is more then enough room in the cavity they fit to deal with expansion or flow of the grease nipper Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
turboguzzi Posted July 27, 2006 Author Share Posted July 27, 2006 yeah thanks jim Now, for a really crazy idea. I restore brit bikes as well and many of those had twin taper roller bearings in the wheel. They also had a threaded adjuster that let you push the races nearer so that you could cancel any free play. considering tha fact that the two inner parts in the subbie bearing can be separated, did anyone ever tried to grind some metal off the inner part / race to close down the free play in a subbie bearing? Just asking, not saying that i'll do it.... ;-) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nipper Posted July 27, 2006 Share Posted July 27, 2006 why would you want to reduce free play? The free play is there for a reason, to allow of expansion of parts as they heat up . Motorcycles dont weigh as much as cars, so you can get away with it, but i still wouldnt recomend it at all. Being an automotive engineer, that free play is very important. You never over tighten bearings in the non awd cars because you need that free play. The same is true for what you want to do. Removing that free play will be in essence the same thing as over tightnening the bearings, and you will greatly reduce the bearing life. You have bearings that last a long long time, why on earth would you want to do something that is not even done in racing circles, let alone anywhere else? nipper Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
turboguzzi Posted July 27, 2006 Author Share Posted July 27, 2006 Havent done that yet... but the idea behind the question is that the rear bearing noise might be coming from some play developing in the bearings over time. If i'll try that, then I surely dont intend to put less free play than was original intended. But if upon dismantling, I'll discover that the races faces and rollers are ok, then I think that grinding some material from one of the inner races so the rollers regain the original clearance can't be a bad idea. tons of old cars had the possibility to adjust free play between twin taper roller bearings. Have to say that after seeing how the rear axle bearing is built, I am not surprised about the many issues. Distance between the two roller rows is extremely small. Radial carrying capcity should be fine but any side loads such as in strong cornering will feed multiples of the car's weight onto the single roller races. guess that having a single (though expensive) bearing saves assembly money but surely a design with two widely spaced separate bearings could be more durable. Just an observation as an engineer. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nipper Posted July 27, 2006 Share Posted July 27, 2006 Havent done that yet... but the idea behind the question is that the rear bearing noise might be coming from some play developing in the bearings over time. If i'll try that, then I surely dont intend to put less free play than was original intended. But if upon dismantling, I'll discover that the races faces and rollers are ok, then I think that grinding some material from one of the inner races so the rollers regain the original clearance can't be a bad idea. tons of old cars had the possibility to adjust free play between twin taper roller bearings. Have to say that after seeing how the rear axle bearing is built, I am not surprised about the many issues. Distance between the two roller rows is extremely small. Radial carrying capcity should be fine but any side loads such as in strong cornering will feed multiples of the car's weight onto the single roller races. guess that having a single (though expensive) bearing saves assembly money but surely a design with two widely spaced separate bearings could be more durable. Just an observation as an engineer. the only nightmare stories i have heard are the SVX and the forester, the SVX seems to be universal problem, im not sure if the forester is a US problem or not. Leagcy bearings seem to be bullitproof, and are the general replacement used in imprezzas, foresters (i dont know about the SVX). nipper Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Legacy777 Posted July 27, 2006 Share Posted July 27, 2006 I haven't touched the bearings on my 90 legacy. I have 186k miles on it, have lowered suspension, stiffer struts, wider tires, etc, etc....and don't drive very daintifully. I have no problems. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jct61765 Posted August 5, 2006 Share Posted August 5, 2006 yeah thanks jim Now, for a really crazy idea. I restore brit bikes as well and many of those had twin taper roller bearings in the wheel. They also had a threaded adjuster that let you push the races nearer so that you could cancel any free play. considering tha fact that the two inner parts in the subbie bearing can be separated, did anyone ever tried to grind some metal off the inner part / race to close down the free play in a subbie bearing? Just asking, not saying that i'll do it.... ;-) They play in the bearings may need to be there. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scottbaru Posted August 6, 2006 Share Posted August 6, 2006 You can look up Timken specs on their online catalog, as I did in this thread http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=42518. Lots of threads on this subject if you use the "Search" function at the top of each thread. I agree on the 30% fill, although it's hard to judge when filling by hand. Plenty of info on this on the web. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.