svxin Posted August 18, 2006 Share Posted August 18, 2006 ok i just picked up an 88 gl10 t, i added a bleader valve to up the boost because power was very slugish, seemed to help a bit but seems to cut power after about 4000 rpm. also the auto tranny seems to slip in and out of gears abnormaly, what could be the cause of this maybe a vac line or selonoid etc seems to me like its also cutting fuel, i dont know exactly what boost it is puting out but im guessing about 10 to 12 psi. is there a wasy to bypass the fuel cut or at least trick it i searched and have found hardly any usable threds about this. any help would be great. the car has 190,000 on the odo. thanks svxin Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rllywgn Posted August 18, 2006 Share Posted August 18, 2006 you may want to check for other problems before upping the boost especially without a boost gauge.. your lack of power may be from something else. have you done a tune up? or atleast inspected the parts related to the ignition system? you may be setting yourself up for disaster by adding boost without supporting mods.. does the car stumble on acceleration? hick-up? hows the idle? the fuel-cut is protecting you, since a accurate boost level is not known rllywgn Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nkx Posted August 19, 2006 Share Posted August 19, 2006 get a boost gauge pronto! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
daeron Posted August 19, 2006 Share Posted August 19, 2006 yah raising boost as first step on new turbo car == NOT good idea. you need a good boost readout before you can safely tweak ANY of that.. the last thing you want to do is make your snail go , right? take care of it, please. I read that through and i sounded like a jerk, so Im sorry, bad first impression but i wanted to add volume to the response you were already getting was all, because you need to heed. the cars are fun, and great because they are so lightweight (go look at the vin plate on your door jamb. Add up the gross axle weight restrictions.. and then go to the glove box. on the glove box door, or maybe on the vin plate, or you might have to go find the number in the owners manual, but find the maximum cargo load. Subtract the cargo load from GVWR (total of the axles) and that is the exact curb weight of your car from factory. should be about 2450-2700 pounds in the end.) you can safely milk a good extra few horses out of the stock turbo motor without too much drastic work, but you gotta play it safe because these heads and head gaskets are the weakest link on the motor, and now that its 20 years old it probably is beginning to look for a good reason to blow anyhow.. so thats why blindly upping the boost is such a bad thing. you would want a good temperature gauge if you are trying to diagnose cooling issues, wouldnt you? BTW you might want to look at a fivespeed swap.. i am, and from what i hear its not difficult.. and if you find the gear ratios (sorry i dont have them handy) you end up seeing that its not too much exagerration to say that the 3speed auto is almost like driving in second, third, and fourth of the manual.. you get a bit more pickup than you REALLY would off the line in second (im sure it dogs taking off in 2nd, anyone with a fivespeed speak up?) but its not a bad analogy anyhow.. i mean, no four banger should be made to push a car to 36 mph in first gear at redline... no four banger deserves any three speed in my mind, especially not a three speed auto with a big old TC to spin around... enjoy the soob, and good luck, i wish i had your car instead of mine :- ) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
svxin Posted August 19, 2006 Author Share Posted August 19, 2006 i will install the guage as soon as it arrives, i dont drive the car much at all i was just wondering if a vac line would cause irratic shifting and also i found out last night the cruse doesnt work, any one have a vac line routiong diagram. i might sell the car in the near future garage kept digi dash nice car.i would like to do a five speed swap in it also what are my options for a donor car my gl10 is full time 4wd so would i need to change the rear diff. i would immagine so. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Caboobaroo Posted August 19, 2006 Share Posted August 19, 2006 i will install the guage as soon as it arrives, i dont drive the car much at all i was just wondering if a vac line would cause irratic shifting and also i found out last night the cruse doesnt work, any one have a vac line routiong diagram. i might sell the car in the near future garage kept digi dash nice car.i would like to do a five speed swap in it also what are my options for a donor car my gl10 is full time 4wd so would i need to change the rear diff. i would immagine so. Ok, first off, is the tranny a 3 speed or a 4 speed automatic? The 3 speed autos have major problems and if you say its slipping in and out of gears, tranny is probably on its way out. 5 speed swap is the way to go. If you can find a tranny from a turbo'd car, then you won't have to change the rear diff. If you end up getting a tranny from a naturally aspirated car, then yes, you'll have to change the rear diff, and highway speeds will result in a higher RPM. I swapped my '89 RX from a 4EAT auto to a Full Time 4wd 5-speed, dual range with locking center diff. All I needed to do the swap was: tranny driveshaft instrument cluster tranny crossmember shift linkage clutch cable pedal cluster center console (for cosmetic reasons) wiring for the diff lock speedometer cable (different from auto to manual) clutch setup and flywheel It was pretty simple for me but its a lot easier with two people (I did it by myself). Now, after you do that, keep it stock and you should have a bit more power to the wheels. If you do end up wanting to build it a bit, you better choose two of the three fast cheap reliable I have roughly $7500 into my junkyard RX and I still am having problems with it. I've already blown one engine and I think I'm pushing my second engine in the same direction but not too sure yet. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NorthWet Posted August 19, 2006 Share Posted August 19, 2006 Tune-up first (my turbos have been sensitive to good plugs and wires). Like the others have said, adding boost is not a good idea... yet. The stock turbo is probably not good for much more flow that stock boost will give anyway. (You might get more "boost" but it will be mostly due to heating the existing airflow.) Get the engine running right before you try to mod it. As daeron touched on, make sure that your cooling system is first-rate before modding or you will end up with dead headgaskets. A new radiator and t-stat are good, cheap insurance. The 3-speed (3AT) does not tend to "slip". It likes clean, fresh oil and will gum-up a critical part that controls automatic shifting; it has a couple other common issues. The 4-speed (4EAT) can have all sorts of issues caused by dirty ATF and/or electrical problems. Daeron commented on relative gear ratios, but forgot to factor in torque multiplication in the auto; not much difference in effective gear ratios between the autos and manuals. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HATCHY Posted August 23, 2006 Share Posted August 23, 2006 88 gl 10's push that much boost?????? 10 to 12 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jub Nub Posted August 24, 2006 Share Posted August 24, 2006 i have a 87 gl10 wagon. i made a mandrel bent intake tube and downpipe to erplace the stock units and noticed a huge increase in power and throttle response. that is all i have done to the car so far, but it was major! oh also new plugs. also i cut the airbox up. oh and i replaced the teeny exhaust pipe with a 2 1/4 inch pipe and glasspack. still quiet, but better power. the turbo cant work right if it cant breathe. i will be putting a 5sp in mine this weekend. will post results. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
svxin Posted August 26, 2006 Author Share Posted August 26, 2006 ok now im looking for a place to tag a vac line for the boost gauge and also a good source for my blow off valve? any suggestions also compleatly updated the cooling system, flush, new t stat and radiator the old one was lookin pretty ruff. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rllywgn Posted August 26, 2006 Share Posted August 26, 2006 do you have a blow off valve or a bypass valve? for your car to run the best a bpv is preferred. A bov can cause off throttle hesitation, because it is releasing metered air to the atmosphere.. this confuses the motor and causes a lean condition. rllywgn Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
svxin Posted August 27, 2006 Author Share Posted August 27, 2006 its a re circ set up blow off valve from a vw 1.8 t. just need to know whare to t in for the blow off and boost guage. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mikeshoup Posted August 27, 2006 Share Posted August 27, 2006 There's a couple spots you can tee in a vacuum line. Probably most obvious is on the p/s, there's either one or two pressure switches with vacuum lines. Where I'm going to do mine, is near the back of the engine bay (mine's a bit different because its an XT), there's two vacuum switches that operate the 4WD lock. Don't know if Automagics have that. I plan to Tee in between the manifold and the switches. Basically, any non-ported manifold vacuum source works well. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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