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my supra had a the same thing happening a while back.. would run for up to 20 seconds then die. it took a fuel pressure tester to show me the problem. the pump would build pressure when starting but would drop immediately after engine was running. my issue ended up being a leak, but in my search for a solution i checked the fuel pressure regulator, fuel rail damper, filter, and pump. it may be related to the pump not being triggered by the ecu, but how would the ecu know? can it sense electrical load? or perhaps its part of an electrical loop? would make sense in the above mentioned accident scenario when you would want that to shut down immediately with the engine. so yeah, check the fuel pressure, as i recall it should be between 40-45psi, someone correct me if im off

the compressor is designed to cycle based on refrigerant pressure, as it fluctuates with engine rpm. however the blower shouldnt turn off. i would check the relays for both the blower and hvac. on some wrx's i've worked on its been just a poor connection where the relay plugs in.

oil pump is a definate yes, dont really want to mess with the water pump. engine has about 40k on it and cooling has been extrodinary. Las vegas heat and a/c full blast dont move my temps past 195f. i will however inspect it. just dont want to mess with a good thing. car has a 2 row radiator, extra electric cooling fan and a notched custom front bumper. I will take it in to consideration though..

pulled the distycap tonight before towing it home and turned the motor over.. rotor didnt spin, appears to be a broken timing belt. id rather replace that then try to find a short. did replace the coil and amplifier in hopes of getting it home without a tow, but as i see it now i have a upgraded coil. so, oh well.. atleast i know whats up, thank you all for your help

timing belt failure will stop the coil from firing? makes sense but my brain is running at about 12%, between work and the car ive used up all of my alotted brain capacity for the day.

So it's been a while since i last posted, just been lurking around and reading through. but now i must, my gl-10 turbo has me stumped. Yesterday after driving about 25 miles the car died and wont restart, checked the obvious things, fuses, fusible links, fuel and what not. what im missing is spark! all fuses are good, fusible links are good and have tight connections. with the key in the on position i have 12 volts at the positive terminal on the coil and 2.3 volts on the negative terminal. i tested the coil/dist plug wire ohm, and turning over no spark output to dist. I attempted to locate the ignition relay above the ecu, not sure i can even see it, moved the ecu to the side and all i see is wire harness and steering column. I've searched but some of the explanations i've read arent too clear or semi close to my current problem. any help is greatly appreciated. 1988 GL-10 turbo 5spd

speaking of.. what happened to his car? havent seen his name in years it seems. sorry bout the threadjack!

They came with the lights when i bought them. And as a side note the 500's are going to be getting nieghbors in the form of 7" hid floods in a 4 light rally pod:grin:

like this grill? home depot grill as well

when theres no pressure in the system the high/low pressuer switch opens the circuit. depending on how he tested it he might be wrong. as others stated compressors don't fail all that often. usual failures are bad front shaft seal, failed/burnt clutch, and bad bypass (some cars). fill the system with nitrogen (an inert gas) and check for leaks. while the sytem is filling you'll hear the pressure switch click to closed. then check the compressor circuit. I'm an epa certified HVAC/R technician for both automotive and commercial/residential comfort cooling. I have serviced and repaired more cars than you can shake a stick at, and replaced compressors in only a handful of them. Dig a lil deeper before condeming the compressor. I'm in las vegas if you would like to schedule an appointment:grin:

im running 18x7.5 prodrive p1's with a +53 offset. 215/40/18 is as much tire as i can get under the car with rubbing in the rear on the torsion bar. with a +48 i could go a little wider on the tire.

nice setup.. piping looks excellent.. I would like to see the intakes available with the option of using a larger filter

check the for sale section of this forum. Depending how norcal you are, i would check some of the pic-a-part's in medford. or any p-a-p for that matter.

ea81's and ea82's are slim pickin's in this town.. i havent seen an hatch on the road here in the valley in the 8yrs that ive lived here

i agree with nipper.. but you can check a couple things.. Is your electric fan coming on? theres a combination high pressure/low pressure switch. it will shut down the compressor if either is met until they reach a set cut in/out point. you could be undercharged, and its cutting out on low pressure. or on the flip side if theres not adequate cooling going through the condenser it could be going off on high pressure. r134 is not meant to be in a r12 system. the condenser coil is to small and most of the time ive seen the conversion done it's been overcharged. it takes longer for a system to "cut in" after a high pressure hit. if it was converted by a "shade tree" mechanic it probably wasnt done properly, and in alot of cases licensed shops dont even do it right.. they don't have to, the law doesnt require it anyways.. I am a certified (609 and 607) hvac technician. working in the commercial service field in las vegas..

be it the safc or the avc-r, neither will have a apex'i harness for the rx. either one of those is for tuning though, you'll be able to monitor what they control.. what exactly do you want your ideal piggyback computer to do?

the door ding trim i assume? best way to fill 'em is welding them.. i wouldn't want to use bondo, slamming the door might be the best reason for not using it.. possibly fiberglassing? maybe.. still not the greatest bond but fiberglass mat on the inside of the panel with mostly resin to fill in the hole.. painting is required with all listed.. well to atleast look "clean"

original poster, bleed the air out and I believe you'll be in good shape. most oem style thermostats are just fine. all they do is restrict flow.. wentz.. your problem sounds a little more serious.. if your going through a gallon a week, thats something more than an air pocket. if your heater core was leaking you would notice it, same with any leak and a little investigation. just because it might be running at normal temp's doesnt rule out a headgasket. find your leak, could be internal

from what i understand factory ac is inbetween alt and ps, dealer installed is outside of alt.

as well as RX availability, I had an '89 black with gold trim and automatic..

why not just have a muffler shop weld in a larger diameter system? usually pretty cheap, especially if you provide any extra's i.e. muffler and cat..

my contribution.. The snub nose ea82 notched stock bumper core smoothed with 14ga sheet

your car will roll to the port side 3 times then burst into flames. as far as i know the impreza strut will not fit into the ea82 spindle.. but with modification to the strut towers the top hats will atleast fit in.. an option for those doing five lug swaps with impreza front suspension/drivetrain

Damn! nice find, I kick myself for ever selling my RX.. my envy should be taken as a compliment.. a lil blood sweat and tears and that thing will be swell.. good luck with the project

it will cook off when the motor is running.. atleast the Shtuff they sprayed on the jdm motor i bought did