rllywgn

+1 sorry my friend.. you most likely have a bhg.. do a compression test to verify, and avoid driving it until you have verified the problem

3 to 4 bars typically.. 4 when running with a/c Although for peice of mind i installed a mechanical and plumbed it in the same location as the factory sensor.. otherwise 192 all day long

one looks like a pitch gauge.. the other looks like an altimeter to me..

yes.. i did it to my now sold 87 t-wagon

try the junkyards if available.. most of them have two temp sensors.. which one do you need? t-stat housing or block?

on my old push button wagon i simply removed the the shift knob, popped out the button assembly and located into one of the coin trays by the e-brake.. so otherwise yes it can be done.. I wanted a neat shift knob.. took me about an hour to do.. slide the rollpin out of the shift knob.. the button i dont remember exactly how to pop it out but it wasnt overly complicated.. (been about 4 years) the wiring for the switch is just taped to the shift linkage as i recall alot of the aftermarket knobs use 3 set screws to hold the knob in place.. so just about anything will work.. take a look at autozone to get a better adea of how they mount.. good luck

its a 6 to 7 dollar part.. whats the fuss? if your having cooling issues troubleshoot the system.. verify that the radiator isnt clogged (cold spots), bhg is/can be a tricky one but sweet smelling exhaust, coolant in your oil, and/or oil in your coolant. In hot areas replace all fluid lines every couple years, verify that your mechanical fan has some "slip" and that your electric functions. Does the thermostat function properly? if you have a mechanical temp gauge you can almost tell exactly what the t-stat is doing.. If you question it replace it.. 6 or 7 bucks once again.. you can tell in some instances where your problem lies if your having overheating issues by when it does overheat.. and a big thing to me is.. DON'T USE TAP WATER!!!.. distilled is the only way to go unless your using a off the shelf 50/50 mix This is why I dont overheat.. I dont want to do another headgasket job..

just one question though... why an ej radiator? or do you have a ej motor? csf two row all metal has made my cooling system very happy

higher octane ratings are good for turbo cars.. helps avoid detonation.. although "regular" yields better gas mileage.. my motor likes the premium stuff.. vegas serves up 91.. some of the stations you can get 100 for 5.25 a gallon.. Both my subie turbo and my supra turbo get the best the pump will dish out regardless of price.. hurts the wallet but helps the car..

if i question it... I change it... cheap enough.. running mine here in vegas with a/c blasting.. Cooling system is always in tip top shape.. I would rather just take comfort in knowing its new and good to go.. 192f running temp all day long with a/c.. city or freeway

go around a tight corner on pavement.. you'll know.. the tires will bark at ya..

i take it you dont have one in there now? from what i understand some systems were factory installed and some were dealer installed.. although i may have been supplied with bad info.. hitachi is more commonly a factory peice from what i've heard.. if you have pics.. post 'em..

thank you for the explination, it does make quite a bit of sense. I should read more of dave colemans articles.. scc ftw! rllywgn

first and foremost use the search function for 5 lug swap info.. thats essentially the information you need.. theres also a how to in the ultimate subaru repair manual under steering and suspension. under subaru retrofitting you will find several current threads pertaining to this topic. if you go wrx/impreza suspension.. 5 lugs come with it.. goodluck rllywgn

Is it just me or is that a wicked stiff spring rate in the front? kinda curious if its gonna plow around corners when driving at 9/10's

As I recall from previous threads on this topic, The brake booster gets in the way of this swap also.. I'm in no way saying this is an impossible task.. I cant say i would be willing to pay 800 for a used setup with whats shown in those pictures.. oil lines, coolant lines, downpipes, etc.. would have to be sourced or fabricated. Money talks comes to mind..

if you buy wrx and do decide to trade for the 2.5i stuff.. I'm with kingbobdole, someone will be more than willing to trade.. if not here, on nasioc.com just post an ad when the time comes.. i dont think you'll have to wait long

i quick simple answer could be.. It's cheaper to sften the suspension of a WRX then it would be to make a 2.5i "fast".. it's peppy but i wouldnt say fast.. plus theres a ton of great suspension options for the wrx as well as fmic kits at a somewhat reasonable price .02 cents rllywgn

the oil cooler i thought i might use on my ea82t is from a second gen rx-7 although im thinking it may be overkill due to size and may be difficult to find a good place to mount.. volvo's particularly the 740's have a somewhat small oil cooler mounted just in fron of the radiator that looks promising.. (should be) easy to mount and the lines are straight forward.. there was a thermostatic oil sandwich adaptor that i had seen for sale (ebay?) but it was listed for a nissan.. sentra maybe.. need to google it i guess thought i had heard about it here

too much.. but it is a dealership.. i paid 700 for my 88 turbo sedan.. 200 for a turbo wagon.. 125 for an 86 turbo sedan.. but i did pay 1800 for a rx coupe with 75k on the clock at a dealership.. the first three listed had less than 200k.. my current ride the 88.. had 170k when i got it, but a new motor, new air ride and clean interior.. bottom line.. keep lookin.. theres much better deals out there rllywgn

My Daily Driver.. 88 GL-10 turbo sedan wrx ic 5 lug swap wrx wheels rx front air dam custom dash gauge pod No rear E-brake:dead: custom front bumper custom grill custom intake working a/c 2 days after purchase a couple days ago.. Paid 700.. now i figure i got 1400 in it.. this winters project will take me to the world of ej's.. i just gotta.. This car has been rock solid.. vegas heat.. blasting a/c.. and me behind the wheel.. rllywgn

could have a refrigerant leak.. the low pressure or high pressure switches could be breaking the circuit.. or even an overcharge if you recently had it serviced.. I just can't recommend servicing it yourself.. to much of the a/c system requires special equipment to properly diagnose and repair For a visual check i would follow the lines on both sides of the engine compartment and at the front condensor. Look and run your hands along them looking and feeling for oil residue especially around fittings and valves. rllywgn

I post occasionally on a local club forum here in las vegas called flat4lv.. recently i saw someone post on there speaking of my beloved ultimate subaru message board.. who is it? i did notice that one of the members from above mentioned board "yuji" posted here.. great guy that does some work for subie sport magazine I would do a Las Vegas roll call but i think i may be the only one... rllywgn

I say Notch the front bumper.. but thats just me.. essentially where the license plate is recessed on the front bumper except about 3" wider on either side of the plate.. I did it on my car but my main reason was for extra cooling in this desert heat.. but on the other hand that may take away from the "sleeper" appearance.. and btw... I still envy you.. not 1.. but 2 ej swapped turbos.. rllywgn

perhaps start a free photobucket.com account and link the pictures to show up in the thread.. when creating a post click the insert imagin icon and copy in the url that photobucket will provide you with when you upload the pictures.. thats what i do.. and no new software to download.. 2 cents rllywgn