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"Whirring" noise update: VERY bad


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Took it to the dealer b/c I didn't have time to deal with it. Turns out the front diff was EMPTY except for a molasses like substance laced with metal shavings.:banghead:

 

How much longer can I drive this thing like this?

 

Is a junkyard diff at reasonable way to go to get a few more years out of the old girl?

 

I don't want to spend $4000 on this car, no matter how much I love her.

 

Options?? :(

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chances are you can get a bad trans and just ues the diff. the labor might be a little more but the trans has to be cheaper. car-patrs.com core trans prices are like 75$. but like manarius said, 1k$ for used tranny installed. not a bad deal.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Took it to the dealer b/c I didn't have time to deal with it. Turns out the front diff was EMPTY except for a molasses like substance laced with metal shavings.:banghead:

 

How much longer can I drive this thing like this?

 

Is a junkyard diff at reasonable way to go to get a few more years out of the old girl?

 

I don't want to spend $4000 on this car, no matter how much I love her.

 

Options?? :(

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So where was this sound coming from???

 

Been chasing a similar on my moms 01 forest, Sound to be coming from the rear. But rear brakes, dif n all check out. Changed rear dif fluid anyways. Almost wonder if it could be a wheel bearing but that not very likley just cause well its a sub. They go forever on reg service.

 

Though I wonder on yours if you saw any drips. How they heck did thick azz 80-90 leak out like that on ya. Had to leak, it dosn't just disolve into thin air.

Course maybe someone was sleepy that day when the car was made.

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It leaks from the seals where the axles go into diff. I know because mine leaks bad. But it has 320,000 miles on it so I just keep adding more.

So where was this sound coming from???

 

Been chasing a similar on my moms 01 forest, Sound to be coming from the rear. But rear brakes, dif n all check out. Changed rear dif fluid anyways. Almost wonder if it could be a wheel bearing but that not very likley just cause well its a sub. They go forever on reg service.

 

Though I wonder on yours if you saw any drips. How they heck did thick azz 80-90 leak out like that on ya. Had to leak, it dosn't just disolve into thin air.

Course maybe someone was sleepy that day when the car was made.

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I dont know if you could do more damage by running it until it quits, maybe someone else will know.

How long do I have until I have to get this repair done? Am I playing with fire if I use it for a coupla more weeks (noise has been heard for 2 weeks already).
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I have no clue but if the front dif is a sealed unit, the shavings can't hurt anything else. Chances are it would still work ok until it failed. Would just need an AAA membership to keep the tow cheap.. But being a front dif there is so much hooked to it. If it locked up, it might damge something up front.

 

I dunno how strong the axel parts are on a Sub, on a RWD american car you would twist the drive shaft in two before ya damaged the trans.

 

But did the dealer flush n refill it for ya? with new fluid it sould be wearing anymore n junk couldn't get bound in it. Just don't jump on it hard that is when ya strip things.

 

Only thing thats gonna get ya is if you break teeth off that could get caught in the gears.

 

If your careful and easy id bet it will hold out for ya. Talk nice to her.

 

Im kinda in that boat. Had a torn cv boot on the front of the 01 forest for about two weeks. Everyone says ya gotta change the axel, its gonna fail, just change it. Long as it still works, I ain't changing nutin. Got a tip from a Import Mech that said buy a regular boot and spilt it yourself with a new razor blade. Then super glue it back together and cover that with special black rubber cement. Dam if he wasn't right.

 

I have used super glue to fix belts in VCR's before. Sometimes they broke again but never where it was glued. Its super

 

ok I rambled enough

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Subie diffs don't go too often, but they do go if they aren't taken care of. They're much more likely to go than twisting a driveshaft. However, in order to replace the front diff, you have to pull the entire trans. So, if you have the entire trans out, you might as well just replace the entire trans instead of trying to pull apart diff and trans then rebolting the diff to the trans and putting it back in...that's a big PITA.

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The dealer did refill the fluid, and it still makes the noise like it did before. Hope this isn't a problem.

 

Better news: I found a Subie-only shop nearby that has it's own salvage yard in the back, and they seem like they're pretty picky about the wrecks they buy. They're telling me to replace the trans at the same time, and if my gear ratio doesn't match with one that they have, they would replace the rear end, too.

 

Does this make sense to yous guys?

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The dealer did refill the fluid, and it still makes the noise like it did before. Hope this isn't a problem.

 

Better news: I found a Subie-only shop nearby that has it's own salvage yard in the back, and they seem like they're pretty picky about the wrecks they buy. They're telling me to replace the trans at the same time, and if my gear ratio doesn't match with one that they have, they would replace the rear end, too.

 

Does this make sense to yous guys?

 

Well, the ratio of the front differental must match the ratio of the rear differential or the transmission will self destruct. So, if they put in a used trans from a different year or model with a different ratio, the rear end has to be changed to match. I think changing the front diff and trans as a unit makes sense; many shops have the skill level to swap out a complete transaxle assembly, but don't have the skill to tear down a transaxle and repair the diff to component level. IMHO, there's a better chance of a good outcome changing the whole deal.

Good luck,

Nathan

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I just replaced a transmission a few months back, all you need to do is make sure the #s on the transmission match, it is a # somewhat like a vin #. If it is the same then the ratio and elc. connections will all work fine. I dont remember exacty where the # is but it is on top you dont have to crawl under car to see it.

The dealer did refill the fluid, and it still makes the noise like it did before. Hope this isn't a problem.

 

Better news: I found a Subie-only shop nearby that has it's own salvage yard in the back, and they seem like they're pretty picky about the wrecks they buy. They're telling me to replace the trans at the same time, and if my gear ratio doesn't match with one that they have, they would replace the rear end, too.

 

Does this make sense to yous guys?

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With the fresh fluid in the diff, it should last for a while. An old used car salesmen trick to quiet a noisy gear box was to mash up a banana(or two) and feed it down the dipstick. Make sure that you put it down the diff dipstick, not the tranny one. Did you have someone change the tranny fluid on the car recently? The drain plug on the diff is mighty tempting, and they might not have refilled it.

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With the fresh fluid in the diff, it should last for a while. An old used car salesmen trick to quiet a noisy gear box was to mash up a banana(or two) and feed it down the dipstick. Make sure that you put it down the diff dipstick, not the tranny one. Did you have someone change the tranny fluid on the car recently? The drain plug on the diff is mighty tempting, and they might not have refilled it.

Sorry, but if the Differential is Whirring, and has Metal shavings in it, it means he either:

A. toasted Carrier bearings...Lifespan...200-300 miles.

B: Toasted Pinion bearings....Lifespan....100 miles or less.

C. Toasted Spider gears.......Lifespan....10 feet to 200 miles.

 

The parts of a differential need to be within .001" of an inch, or they SELF DESTRUCT.

 

Plain and simple.

 

i've set up off road axles with different gears, and let me tell you, the difference a.005" shim makes is the difference between a new 500$ set of Randy's Ring and Pinion Gears lasting 100K miles.....Or 10 miles.

 

If he has metal shavings, and it's whirring, it's toast. I would not take it above 20 mph unless you like locking up a driveline at higher speeds......Taking the carrier housing, transmission, usually CV shafts, and d-shafts with it.

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