Singlecoil Posted September 9, 2006 Share Posted September 9, 2006 I've had one code for about 8 years on my carbuerated California 86 GL. The dealer told me it wasn't anything special and a new part was about $300. I've had black tape on the light ever since. Lately the car has been hesitating after it warms up so I've paid closer attention to the codes. According to the listing on the site, my codes are: 24 Coolant Temperature Sensor or Circuit 25 Manifold Vacuum Sensor or Circuit (1985-1988 Models) 65 Float Chamber Vent COntrol Valve or Circuit There wasn't a separate chart for California emissions cars so I'm guessing the codes are the same. I want to keep this baby on the road since I have about 20,000 miles on a new engine and 181K total. Can anyone offer some tips or cheap fixes for these ones? Thanks much. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GeneralDisorder Posted September 9, 2006 Share Posted September 9, 2006 Coolant temp is probably your hessitation. Those are pretty cheap. Check www.thepartsbin.com. You need the two blade version for the feedback carb. The code 25 is the ugly one. That's the $300 part (it's actually a "boost sensor" located on the passenger side strut tower), and I tried about 5 of them from the junk yard when I had that code and none worked. It's a nasty little bugger and can't be fixed either. I took one apart and well.... don't bother. If you want that code to go away..... well sorry since you live in CA you are either stuck with the code, or you need to do something like swap to a Weber and keep your old manifold and setup for passing the emissions tests. If you swap out the carb with a weber it's an instant fail as the Weber isn't street legal. Same problem with swapping to the SPFI - not orginal equippment so you can't swap it over unless you are prepared to swap back each time you need to test it. The code 65 is just the vent solenoid. Those are easy to find, or replace the thing with a resistor that will shut the code off. Does not affect your mileage or the emmissions test so don't worry about it. GD Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GL-10 Turbo Posted September 9, 2006 Share Posted September 9, 2006 Can a "boost" solenoid from an '85 GL work? Got one sitting here off a formerly running car... ...it ran until I took out the alternator, battery, and radiator. The rest is for sale... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GeneralDisorder Posted September 9, 2006 Share Posted September 9, 2006 It's a flat looking weird thing that says "boost sensor" on it. Not a solenoid in any sense of the word, and it doesn't go on a turbo engine. It's used for manifold pressure readings for the ECU on the EA82 feedback carb models. And every one I've tried was a fail..... not sure why they go, but damn they are expensive. Didn't really hurt the mileage, but I still hated the Hitachi. Slow, and complicated. GD Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Singlecoil Posted September 10, 2006 Author Share Posted September 10, 2006 Thanks for the tips! I'm mainly interested in getting rid of the hesitation. I live in Eatonville, WA now, and don't have to take IM tests at all! I bought this car in Seattle from somebody who bought it at an auction (I found out later) in Cali. So when the coolant sensor goes, it reverts to some sort of limp mode or something? It feels like someone is flipping a switch on and off that robs you of about 20% of your horsepower. The partsbin has a water temperature sender, is the what I would replace to fix code 24, coolant temperature sensor? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GeneralDisorder Posted September 10, 2006 Share Posted September 10, 2006 Thats the one - you need the twin blade style sender. One side is for the guage on the dash, and the other is for the ECU. But if you live in WA, then just get a Weber for it. That feedback Hitachi is just a mess. You will get a very decent performance boost, quicker easier starts, no hessitation, and better mileage. It's not worth the investment, or hassle to make the Hitachi work when the alternative is better on all accounts. GD Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Singlecoil Posted September 10, 2006 Author Share Posted September 10, 2006 That Weber sounds pretty intriguing. How much are they and how hard are they to install? Is that the carb or the distributor or ? I know Weber makes carbs but that's about all I know. I'm fairly mechanically inclined, is that a job for an intermediate level wrench? Where do I get one and what kind should I buy? Thanks again. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GeneralDisorder Posted September 10, 2006 Share Posted September 10, 2006 There's some excelent threads on here about it. You need a Weber 32/36 DGV series (DGEV, DGAV, etc), and the subaru adaptor plate. Last one I did cost me $190 total - that's including carb ($85 used - ebay is a good source), complete rebuild kit, couple new jets, new choke, and new adaptor plate. Would have been about $160 without the choke, but I wanted a new one. The conversion can easily be done in a few hours. First time I did one it took me about 4 hours on a saturday. Really one of the easier conversions to do, and many, many folks on here have done them so there's always plenty of help if you get stuck. GD Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Singlecoil Posted September 10, 2006 Author Share Posted September 10, 2006 Thanks, looks like I'll be getting re-acquainted with the search function Does the new carb use the old air filter? I just put a K&N filter in the thing, hopefully I can still use that. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Singlecoil Posted November 29, 2006 Author Share Posted November 29, 2006 Thread resurrection! I have a couple of question before I take the plunge and buy the Weber. I have these three codes: 24 Coolant Temperature Sensor or Circuit 25 Manifold Vacuum Sensor or Circuit (1985-1988 Models) 65 Float Chamber Vent COntrol Valve or Circuit So, if I buy the Weber kit for $375 I can essentially ignore these codes and other ECU codes in the future? Does that mean the Hitachi uses some kind of electric input to the carb to alter fuel flow and the Weber does not? I'm guessing the Weber uses a simpler fuel delivery system and a superior design to get the added performance with fewer inputs. Is that right? Does the ECU still function via the electronic ignition or does swapping the carby fix these types of problems for sure? Do the kits include detailed instructions for installation? How long will it take a handy newbie to install? I live in an area with no emission tests so that is not a worry. The wife is tired of pulling out into traffic and not knowing when the hesitation will occur so I have a green light to get more HP out of the car. It sounds like the Weber is a good place to start. The car is also not starting as well as it used to either. Thanks! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GeneralDisorder Posted November 29, 2006 Share Posted November 29, 2006 You can ignore the ECU entirely if you install a Weber. You will leave it in place as it controls the fuel pump. Just pull the bulb out of the dash surround and you will never have to worry about the ECS light. Probably take you a good day to install it the first time. Not difficult really. You will have to pound a good sized dent in the power steering reservior, but it will not effect the operation of it. Another option is the SPFI - a bit more involved, but fuel injection rocks! http://home.comcast.net/~trilinear/EA81_SPFI.html GD Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Singlecoil Posted November 29, 2006 Author Share Posted November 29, 2006 You will have to pound a good sized dent in the power steering reservior, but it will not effect the operation of it. I never thought I would say this, but thank God I don't have power steering! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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