GL-10 Turbo

You ask about the details. Here's the detail: When you get the updated oil cover separator plate (11831AA210), you must also purchase 5 bolts (800406140), and one pre-loctite bolt (800406150), which attaches to the hole with the arrow by it. I'm assuming the head gasket kit contains the following: T-belt (13028AA21B) Head gaskets x2 (11044AA632) Intake gaskets x2 (14035AA281) Exhaust gaskets x2 (44011AC030) Valve cover gaskets x2 (13294AA040) Valve cover bolt grommets x10 (13271AA071) Spark plug tube seals x4 (10966AA000) Front main seal (806733030) Rear main seal (806786040) Camshaft seals (806732150 x2) Oil pump to block o-ring (10991AA001) Water pump (21111AA007)? Water pump gasket (21114AA051) Thermostat and gasket (21200AA072 + 21236AA010) If needed: 13033AA042 (T-belt tensioner) Hope this helps.

If you PM me the last eight of your VIN, I'll get you the information Monday morning. Check my location.

Well, there's also the rear sensor behind the cat as well. Hopefully you get the correct one.

In order to help you properly...a few questions. Year? Turbo or non-turbo? Road conditions? Do you drive on dirt a lot? Do you drive in snow a lot? Do you have to drive to the snow, or through the snow each year? Budget? This could help us in determining a good choice of tire for you. I'd recommend something different if you live in Colorado, for instance, than if you live in Florida, or Oregon, etc.

The point I was making is that he doesn't have to study the wiring diagrams. You could hand him the JDM wiring harness, the USDM wiring harness to the vehicle he's installing it into, and he'd be able to complete it PROPERLY from memory.

How many Subaru engineers can tell you what works and doesn't and what'll fit and what doesn't outside of the factory guidelines?? Umm...there are some people here who know more about Subaru than Subaru. Trial and error, learning to retrofit parts that were never designed for usage in particular platforms...for instance the 5-lug conversion...how many factory engineers could tell you that it can be done, and then proceed to tell you how to do it?? I'm guessing very few...if any.

I'm sorry, but having a technician/mechanic who can do a complete JDM (CARB legal, BTW) motor and drivetrain swap without having to look at the wiring diagram...knows it from memory... ...I don't see that as pretentious. I know there's very few people who could claim that level of competence. The nice thing is that while he can do that, and does, he is a very humble person who would never brag about his talents/skills. I tend to tell people how good he is, because he IS that good. I'm not saying there aren't others who can do a good job on working on the Subarus, but that level of skill and talent deserves to be recognized for what it is.

I'm sorry, but I can honestly say that the people who choose to maintain their vehicle at a dealership, either under the assumption it's the only way to maintain the warranty, or not knowing any better, will spend FAR more money and contribute FAR more profit to the service and parts departments than the sales department could EVER hope to make on the biggest "whale"... "Whale" - term for someone who walks in, pays MSRP, buys all the accessories, the "protectant", the extended warranty, etc. Honestly, for the vast majority of dealerships, the service and parts departments are what keeps the doors open. Used cars, on the other hand, are a different animal. I've seen what happens there...and that's the only way the sales department can carry their end of the "overhead load".

You go to LIC Motorsports, and be done with it. We take our vehicles there, almost exclusively...and I WORK at a dealership. Here's a list of their 30/60/90k services. You go there ONCE, and I promise you that your car will NEVER go anywhere else. Honest? Umm, they're more honest than <insert deity here> in ALL of their business dealings, and will try to talk you OUT OF purchasing more than what's needed. Competent? They know more about Subaru than Subaru knows about Subaru. Simply that...oh, but they're definitely humble about it...which keeps them from being obnoxious about it. We live in Sebastopol, and pass up... PJ's Foreign (Santa Rosa), Prestige Subaru (I work at another dealer), and a few other shops on the way to LIC Motorsports. Trust me, once you go there, you'll pass those places up too... BTW, you can watch them in their shop LIVE if you would like to see and talk with them in real time.

I have a mounting bracket that I've designed for the Impreza/Forester line. It uses the JDM bumper holes that are pre-formed into the bumper, and allows you to install a USDM license plate without drilling additional holes into the bumper.

I need everything above the strut. Tophats, springs, rubber cushions, topnuts, and the three nuts to hold the tophats in. I'll take it, send me a paypal addy, and I'll send you payment tonight. If the bolts are different (knuckle), please include them. I'll pay a bit more for a complete package of every little thing. This is for a 1992 Legacy wagon (checked by VIN). Thanks, Gregory

Appreciate the help on this. Now, anyone know where I can get the springs and tophats for this project? '92 Legacy wagon... ...the sooner, the better, and I'm willing to pay...

I've scoured the forum for some sort of answer on this, and I'm on a time schedule, so help would be appreciated. I have a '92 Legacy that a shop is working on, and they want to convert the air suspension to a standard suspension. I've got the struts (new), and obviously need the tophats and springs. What else is there to this conversion? The service writer at that shop says he talked to someone who told him that you need new control arms, and a whole bunch of other stuff. Can someone please help with more information? The only thing I found in the Retrofitting was a link to a pictoral, with no real descriptions. Thanks.

I think that MIGHT fit into my SVX with a little modification.

Which one? '94 SVX - I'm gonna have to vote for an EJ257 (STi) motor swap with an FMIC, complete overhaul with full custom racing suspension, and a custom paint job. '86 GL-10 Turbo (#1) - AWD underpinnings instead of FWD, 5-lug conversion, disc brake conversion, complete custom interior, complete suspension upgrade, and a motor swap. '86 GL-10 Turbo (#2) - 5-lug conversion, custom interior w/rollcage, suspension (for rallying), WRX drivetrain.

Can a "boost" solenoid from an '85 GL work? Got one sitting here off a formerly running car... ...it ran until I took out the alternator, battery, and radiator. The rest is for sale...

Take a copy of your registration (or your insurance card) and your license down to the subaru dealership... ...if you get lucky, they have your key code information, and they can use the VIN to look it up...and make you a copy by VIN code.

^^ :lol: :lol: In the Forester XT (4EAT) that I drive, I found this neat feature. There are numbers below the "D" on the shifter gate...and since I know how to use them AND rev match my downshifts (yes, it can be done), I can control my AUTOMATIC just like a four speed manual transmission car. I haven't really tried it with my 3 speed automatic in the GL-10, but that's because I'm pulling the motor and re-sealing the engine.

I thought my '86 GL-10 Turbo twins (MT/AT) both had the EA-82T SPFI motors.

Chilton's are for those who like to practice...do the same job again and again, and again... :mad: (two thumbs DOWN) They're not only vague, they also ensure that the S.T.M. doesn't realize that they're full of bull, and follows their instructions word for word. The result is doing the job over again...

Are there any Northern Cal mechanics who'd like to help out an enthusiast with engine removal? I need someone who can mostly direct, and offer advice and some help. I'd like to do most of the wrenching myself, I just need someone with the experience of engine removal to come help show me some tips/tricks and maybe lend a hand if I need it... Willing to pay in beer/wine/BBQ...and some $$ for your gas. Being as I'm not exactly rich, I can't afford to pay mechanic prices, but considering this is more of a consulting job...

I went on CL and found a '86 GL-10 Turbo with push-button 4WD, 5MT, fully loaded with fog lights and everything...in pretty darn good condition. The guy had it diagnosed at a local shop after the radiator inlet hose connection blew off, and they said it's a head gasket. Nothing that I've seen indicates that the head gasket is gone, but I could be mistaken. I'm going to replace the radiator tomorrow to get it home (donor EA-82 N/A), then fix it. The price I paid for this wonderful car? Priceless. Owner told me where it was, had the keys under the floor mat, and the signed over title in the glove box.

So, can you reproduce the "Turbo" sticker on the bottom of the rear doors from a 1986 GL-10 Turbo wagon? Mine are pretty faded, and almost completely invisible. I'd like to put them back on when the car gets fixed up...

From what you describe, it sounds like not only the bearing, but the hub might be completely useless too... ...if you need a complete assembly, let me know. I have a donor parts car that can have that assembly removed for a trade.

Does color matter to you? I have a parts car. It's a blue interior. If it matters, the part number for your vehicle is: 761155120 - Gray - 1 LEFT IN U.S. 761155130 - Beige - 5 LEFT IN U.S. 761155140 - Blue - 5 LEFT IN U.S.