It costs a lot to replace the boots at my shop. Is there an easy way to deal with this, like do it yourself? I am not a mechanic nor do I have extensive tools. I don't know what's involved. This is for a '92 Loyale 4WD wagon. THX

i'm pretty sure it's fairly easy to do. i THINK you'd have to remove the hub and all that junk to get to it, but it's not as difficult to remove after you get under it and take a good look.

someone else on the board will hafta clarify but i think you could do it your self.

 

and jim martin, what part of colorado are you in?

go to the auto parts store and ask for a split boot. this allows you to install it with out removing anything other than the tire.

It took me about 10min. this only helps if it is not clunking yet.

 

you will only need a phillips screwdriver and some pliers / dikes.

 

yup, quick, cheap easy fix.. good for about 10k miles. if the joint is clicking/clunking though, time to replace the axle. only special tools required are a 36mm socket , 3/16(i think) punch and a BFH.. axle puller is helpful to get it back in, but not necessary

calebz, when you replace an axle to eliminate the dreaded percussion instrument that is your CV, you have to replace the whole axle? would a new axle include the DOJ and CV¿

Can I get this "split boot" at any auto parts store? Or, does Subaru make one? My joints are fine I think, the shop just says, replace those boots soon, they are cracking. How does a split boot keep the joint clean? Bow does it seal? THX

the soob dealer has boots w/clamps for about 12 bucks each.

 

you will have to remove the axle following standard axle replacement procedure.

 

once the axle is out, remove the boot from the inner end (DOJ). pop out the circlip, and pull away the axle from the doj. use a pick or a small screwdriver to remove the bearings. ince the bearings are out, the race will come away. pay attention to the orientation of the race fpr re-assembly. there will be the center of the bearing assembly on the end of the splined(axle) shaft. there will be a snap-ring clip there, it can be picked out with skillfil hands, or go get a set of ring pluers to remove it. pull the center of the race off the axle.

 

now you can remove the inner boot, then the outer. reassembly is reverse order.

 

you may need a special tool for the band clamps depending on the style you use.

 

it can be done as long as you know what to expect, and most importantly, having the proper tools.

yo fox, just what is the "roof of Boom"?

 

i read it in your signature, just curious. i might need one:lol:

its a pair of 8 inch woofers and an amp mountsd to the ceiling. the idea originated from having the amp on the cailings of both my 79 pinto and 80 mercury bobcat, but the soob was the first to get speakers on the ceiling.

 

the name derives from a pic of an amc wagon i saw on the internet.

 

i had a picture on the wcss site, but i think its down right now ?

sounds cool, are they just in boxes and the boxes bolted on?

 

i need clever names for the parts of my car!!!!

Don't do this "split-boot" hogwash. That is the DUMBEST idea. The split boot is still going to leak... I had one on my XT and guess what??? That axle was crap...

 

Replacing boots is also a waste of time. You don't know when the boot was cut, you don't know how much grease has leaked out, or how much foriegn matter has gotten in, so therefore the joint may be damaged but not making noise yet.

 

Replace the axle with a rebuilt one from http://www.cvaxles.com. They make the best axles in the world for Subarus, and the axles are $55 apiece with lifetime warranty. And replacement is not that hard, the only difficult thing is getting the axle stub in and out of the wheel bearings...

 

The price of half-assing axles is more than replacing them right. Don't do it unless you want the joint to come apart and leave you stranded somewhere...