MaroonDuneDoom

I don't know. Beats me. The amount of anti-freeze that it loses is perplexing. Does anybody know if a cracked head can burn that much coolant? I might just hafta take it to my mechanic when i get paid next week.

Weirdest thing, anti-freeze in my ea82 is going at the rate of a good quart per day. it doesn't seem to be leaking though. I think it's burning it up. once the engine is hot, it just starts to smoke a bit. the smoke is coming from the front of the hood. most likely from the front of the engine. the smoke is white, which would indicate anti-freeze burning. anti-freeze smokes white, right? Could it possibly be a head gasket? Anybody got a diagnosis?

i drive with a plugged up core. i also live in wyoming. brrrr is right. some nights, i have to scrape the inside of the windshield while driving. the frost really builds up. i'm used to the cold by now. yopu know it's bad when you can see your breath the whole time. friends of mine will be shakin' and a shiverin' and i'm not really affected any more.

if your clutch is releasing all the way, it's probably your synchros. some time ago there was a discussion involving ATF. here goes. drain oil from tanny. fill with automatic transmission fluid. drive it for appx. 1 block. drain again. fill with half synthetic and half plain old gearbox oil. this should help your synchronizers a it. helped mine. the onlyother option that i can think of at the moment would be to go to the JY and get another tranny. but thats kinda hit and miss. good luck and enjoy your subaru. Give 'er hell!!

yesterday, while at the JY, i saw some awsome five spoke aluminum-looking mag wheels on a late '80s gl sedan. too bad the car was on the wrong side of the fence. i wanted to take a picture, but i had no camera. i'm gonna keep the camera ready in case i see it around town.

replace it? i already spent the $17.99 on a new VR. i guess i could always return it. i don't know how cheap thy would be out here in our yards though.

actually, i am surprised. surprised that i didn't fry a pile of other stuff. 18+volts is no good for 12 volt components. i'm nt stupi, i knew bette than to drive it. i had to though. gotta get to Blockbuster so i can make some cash. gotta see the pee ho.

i'm almost certain that the battery is fried. i went out to start my car and it was totally dead. i couldn't even get a dome light to come on. wouldn't even shine dimly.

i got the housing separated from he stator, but it wont come off. i hammered and pried and pried and hammered an still nothing came from it. it just won't slip off the back. it feels as if it is caught up in the very center of the back of the housing. the housing closest to the pulleys will rotate feely and the other piece of housing will move back and forth only catching on those bolts. any suggestions?

i don't have any sockets big enough to get the pulleys off so i'll just pry at it. if that doesn't work, i can always try the drop-on-the-floor method.

drove it like that for almost a week out of neccessity. no obvious damage incurred. made it guzzle the fuel though.

i can't seem to get the damn thing to separate at all. removed the four long screws. do i also need to remove the pully assy.?

Not too surprising, but i figured the fuse would go first. sounds like an excuse to get me some silverstars. Kinda sucks for the old pocketbook though. Luckily I've got a spare. For now I'll just replace the double-fillament-fried bulb and just have one bright for awhile. I hate electrical work.

The nice whooshing sound it produces after being cut is well worth it. The exhaust note will change too. Definitely to my liking. Even if it doesn't increase horsepower, you can feel the difference the first time you drive it. I think that the difference felt is not more power, but faster access to said power. Of course the engineers who designed the car wouldn't make the intake insufficient, but i think it can definitely be improved on. Just remember, the less restriction the better. The only drawback is the fact that the filter gets dirtier a little faster. Water is not an issue. You'd really have to try to get the filter wet. Stays nice and dry.

i had the VR go out in my alternator. it made the car run with 18+ volts. The higher voltage messed up my headlights somehow. At first, my driver's side dim went out. So i drove witht the brights. After a day or two, the brights went dead. Fuses check out. Is it possible that the bulb fried? Or is there a fusible link that could have gone. Not sure what the fusible links go to and have not checked them as of yet. What else should i check out? I have the wiring diagrams fortunately. I hope i don't have to rewire or get up under the dash. Suggestions?

GARNER, That new pulley sure does look sharp. It's about time that someone did something like this. Frankly, I'm surprised that I haven't seen it already. If you do end up making pulleys, or having them made, you'll definitely have your hands full supplying the demand of us lunatics here on the board. I feel your pain. Only i suffer even more. I live in a small "suburb" (although suburbs don't exist anywhere in Wyoming) north of town. The lines are so sh!tty that i can't connect any faster than 28.8. On top of that, i use AOL. I realize that AOL is horrible-slow, but i'm still getting it for free. Can't beat that.

I did the cutting mod many moons ago. It definitely made the engine more "peppy". The biggest drawback is the airflow that you eventually lose due to a clogged filter. Seriously, the best thing to do is adapt your MAF to fit a nice cone filter. You can snake one off of a Nissan sentra. not sure which years exactly. mid '90s though. The sound is undescribable. Sounds amazing i think. made my SPFI NA sound turbo'd. Nice whooshing sound. If you can't fford the cne setup, go for the cut-out. it's worth the 5 minutes it takes to do.

a new radiator never hurts. but.......... there are extensive threads out there that cover cooling dilemmas. A cooling system is fairly basic and easy to understand. Check out the search function. You'll fnd plenty of info. I suggest getting your basic info and troubleshooting from there. wish ya luck

I used to have the same thing happen to my GL wagon while 4x-ing during the summer months. New radiator and a 180 t-stat solved that problem. I'm tellin ya, if you plan on owning many a soob in your days, a new radiator is one of the most worth while investments you can make.

$70!?!?!! ouch. Does that come with a kick in the arse too? We have Checker, Napa, and Autozone here. I got a new regulator for $17.99. I did a bunch of alternator/starter teardowns a few years ago in auto shop. I still remember the jist of it anyways. And i've got a Haynes manual. Should be set. I'll just have to wait and see how it goes.

Im goin with cheap instead of easy this time. I think i'll try to replace it. By chance, do you know specifically where it is in the alternator? Hate to bug you too much. I just need to get it pulled from the JY by 3 or 3:30 this afternoon. Thanks for all your help.

I need to replace a voltage regulator in an '88 Gl wagon SPFI NA. Is it in the alternator? Or is it near the battery like my Haynes manual says? Haynes doesn't have the best pictures, so what does it look like? thanks guys

I know this isn't the marketplace forum, but I've got a red Bullwhip brand antenna in mint condish. If any of you guys want one that bad i can ship it ASAP. Just figured i'd chime in.

i drive without a well fitting cap on my reserve tank but just have it covered with a 1 litre soda cap and some duct tape. ?¿does the reserve tank need to hold pressure?¿ also, just replaced the radiator in my '88 gl wagon. the $120 was well spent. saved me all kinds of time, troubles, and headaches. and they run super-cool and efficient.

i'm still a little hazy here. how would the voltage regulator affect my headlights dimming? also, does anyone have some spare time/energy that they would want to check on those fuses for me? thanks again