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Well I finally got the death certificate for my 1995 Subaru impreza yesterday...

Needs new water pump (and suggestion to change the timing belt), left head gasket is leaking (my mechanic is pretty sure but won't be certian unit the car is washed down), transmission needs a new gasket(not a big deal but the tranmission fluid hasn't been changed in probably 300,000kms,orignal owner did nothing to the car) back right brake caliper needs repalcing and back left wheel bearing needs to be replace...

So at 407,000kms I think the time has come to let it rest.

 

I am Looking into buying another one because I love my curernt one so much I can't imagine driving anyhthing else.

 

I am looking at another 95 exact same as mine (except different colour)

1995 Impreza

automatic

5 door

1.8L

154,000kms

The guy wants 3,800 cdn for it, does that seem resonable?

Also can anyone give me some tips on what I should do to keep the new one running and in good shape if I do buy it?

 

Thanks so much for everyones help, you have all been great!:clap:

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i don't know the canadian market or exchange rate but if the rust isn't terrible that sounds like a fair deal.

 

whatever car you buy change the ATF immediately and on an older car change the coolant as most people do not.

 

i'd replace anything coolant related to protect the engine - thermostat, radiator hoses and hose clamps.

 

i personally replace the timing belt, water pump, oil pump seal and cam seals when i first get a vehicle to make sure it is reliable and it's all new down there. all that stuff is together so best to change it all at the same time. i can do it myself easily so it's easy. a pre-1997 the motor will not be an interference engine so you don't have to worry about any internal engine damage if the belt breaks. might want to try to make it a year if the expense is a hinderance....but i wouldn't do that on a 97 or newer interference engine. a broken belt, water pump, or pulley bearing means possibility of major internal engine damage on 97 and newer 2.2's and all 2.5's.

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i don't know the canadian market or exchange rate but if the rust isn't terrible that sounds like a fair deal.

 

whatever car you buy change the ATF immediately and on an older car change the coolant as most people do not.

 

i'd replace anything coolant related to protect the engine - thermostat, radiator hoses and hose clamps.

 

i personally replace the timing belt, water pump, oil pump seal and cam seals when i first get a vehicle to make sure it is reliable and it's all new down there. all that stuff is together so best to change it all at the same time. i can do it myself easily so it's easy. a pre-1997 the motor will not be an interference engine so you don't have to worry about any internal engine damage if the belt breaks. might want to try to make it a year if the expense is a hinderance....but i wouldn't do that on a 97 or newer interference engine. a broken belt, water pump, or pulley bearing means possibility of major internal engine damage on 97 and newer 2.2's and all 2.5's.

 

Thanks,

I think it is about 3000.00usd, the car is in excellent condition as far as I can tell from pictures The seller says there is no rust. I will definatly take your advise and start changing out the above mentioned right away.

Thanks again for your help.

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i don't know the canadian market or exchange rate but if the rust isn't terrible that sounds like a fair deal.

 

whatever car you buy change the ATF immediately and on an older car change the coolant as most people do not.

 

i'd replace anything coolant related to protect the engine - thermostat, radiator hoses and hose clamps.

 

i personally replace the timing belt, water pump, oil pump seal and cam seals when i first get a vehicle to make sure it is reliable and it's all new down there. all that stuff is together so best to change it all at the same time. i can do it myself easily so it's easy. a pre-1997 the motor will not be an interference engine so you don't have to worry about any internal engine damage if the belt breaks. might want to try to make it a year if the expense is a hinderance....but i wouldn't do that on a 97 or newer interference engine. a broken belt, water pump, or pulley bearing means possibility of major internal engine damage on 97 and newer 2.2's and all 2.5's. 1.8's are all non-interference.

 

I have just learned that the car has been painted which is not out of the ordinary I guess considering it is 11 years old, but it has also had the steering pump changed and the rack and pinion...is this out of the ordinary? I might just be worrying for nothing beacuse of how reliable my current one was...

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i'd run a carfax on it if that's applicable in canada? probably is. just tells you if the car was ever in an accident. it's not completely unusual for a car to be repainted but it's not normal. most that i run into that are painted are either covering rust (usually poorly) or have been in an accident.

 

you might want to read alittle about how to look for a car that was in an accident. easiest way is to check the hood and how it lines up with the fenders, same with doors and all other body parts. every line should be straight and even. a repaired vehicle typically has gaps between body parts that are skinny, then get wider at the other end so to speak. also look underneath, around wheels wells, in front of and behind wheels for signs of previous or existing rust.

 

most likely the steering pump and rack were replaced isn't a big deal. there is some possibility that the tie rods and rack could have been damaged in an accident but that's not likely. most likely something simple and relatively common started leaking (an oring or hose/fitting on the pump). they probably didn't really need replaced. the "shop" or "mechanic" probably gave them some story about needing both when really the steering pump needed a 50 cent o-ring which is very typical of the older subaru models. it's not normal but not unheard of for a power steering pump to go bad or start leaking. usually doesn't need replaced (just a leaky line, fitting or o-ring) but shops often replace parts not o-rings on something like that. and they very typically replace other related components.

 

i have friends and family that all the time go to get a brake job and end up needing new rotors, pads, calipers, master cylinder....i'm sure ALL of those things didn't go bad as soon as they pulled in the shop!

 

bottom line - power steering stuff i wouldn't be concerned about at all. the paint i'd want to check into previous accident or rust.

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I don't think that the death certificate has been issued. Headgasket leaking externally? what is it leaking, oil or coolant? Is the water pump growling and leaking? Rear caliper could be junkyard sourced. Wheel bearings aren't that expensive. How fast is the tranny leaking? I'd keep what you have through the winter, then buy a cheaper subie in the spring when AWD isn't such a big selling point.

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I don't think that the death certificate has been issued. Headgasket leaking externally? what is it leaking, oil or coolant? Is the water pump growling and leaking? Rear caliper could be junkyard sourced. Wheel bearings aren't that expensive. How fast is the tranny leaking? I'd keep what you have through the winter, then buy a cheaper subie in the spring when AWD isn't such a big selling point.

 

Headgasket leaking externally leaking oil

water pump leaking not growling

rear caliper I will look around I have yet to find a subaru in a junk yard around where I live, guess I could take a drive to Toronto. Tranny is not leaking bad at all the seal is just starting to go, I am just scared to flush the transmission fluid, I have been warned that is can be a sudden death for the tranny when regular flushes hav enot been done.

 

Well I went to see the "new" car today...piece of junk!!!

The guy said it was in A1 condition clean and 154,000 kms

I would say 1/4 of the car was filled with bondo and the paint job...I think if someone had taken a can of spray to it it would have looked better.

The interior was grey as the seller said, just failed to mention it was suppose to be beige the grease is what made it grey. it ran ok not fantastic my subaru with 407,000kms runs better. I popped the hood and it was obvious that the car had been in an accident, although he claimed it hadn't. the engine was soaked with oil and under the hood was very rusty...I am doubting that it really only had 154,000kms on it.

 

So now to try to keep my car alive...

Can anyone tell me if the rad has to come out to change the water pump?

I was looking at the service manual and it doesn't say anything about having to take the rad out, but when my mechanic looked at it he said he through it would have to come out.

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LOL, omg that is so funny, find another one, but ya here in toronto i cant find nothing with junked subarus to tell u the truth. If u see one PM me, be great of u, i could use a few parts for my car. But i think u should just get the waterpump, all the front crank seals changed, timing belt, rear caliper, no big deal, find one on ebay or the internet, but the tranny, well, i dont think this is good advice but are all the bolts around it tight :grin:.

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Taking the radiato out makes doing the water pump much easier. It isn't hard either, the only pain is the lower tranny cooler line, can be difficult to get the clamp off. Doing the timing belt and idler pullys while doing the pump makes sense. You have to take it all off to get to the pump, might as well do two jobs at the same time. Ignore the tranny leak, and just keep it filled up. Who cares if you leave a bit of red snow behind you? How much oil is the headgasket leaking? How much oil do you have to add on a regular basis?

 

My plan of attack: Water pump and timing belt

Rear wheel bearing

Caliper replacement.

Put a Wanted to buy add up and see if anyone has a caliper for cheap.

 

Ignore the oil(s) leakage untill it gets really bad.

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Taking the radiato out makes doing the water pump much easier. It isn't hard either, the only pain is the lower tranny cooler line, can be difficult to get the clamp off. Doing the timing belt and idler pullys while doing the pump makes sense. You have to take it all off to get to the pump, might as well do two jobs at the same time. Ignore the tranny leak, and just keep it filled up. Who cares if you leave a bit of red snow behind you? How much oil is the headgasket leaking? How much oil do you have to add on a regular basis?

 

My plan of attack: Water pump and timing belt

Rear wheel bearing

Caliper replacement.

Put a Wanted to buy add up and see if anyone has a caliper for cheap.

 

Ignore the oil(s) leakage untill it gets really bad.

 

Oil is not leaking bad, it has been slowly getting worse, probably need to put in a litre of oil between oil changes. I guess that would be between the headgasket and the oil pan leaking.

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