Instead of posting on a bunch of threads, etc. I'm going to make one post here....

 

To start:

 

1) I had to figure out what the hell I needed to do...

 

After several queries to the group:

http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=65611

 

http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=65639

 

I decided to install a new motor. Due to several factors (my location and the lack of nearby soob mechanics, mechanics/friends whom I trusted for help, lack of personal knowledge, etc) I decided it would be best to pull the motor and replace it with a CCR.

 

2) Bought motor, followed these instructions:

 

http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=617

 

Specifically, Oh Noah's comments

 

3) I'm in the middle of it now. I've had a few questions as I go:

a) Timing considerations:

http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=617

 

Finding Top Dead Center (revived and old post)

http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=42015

 

4) Now I have an issue - first one so far...

It seems the flywheel cover on my CCR motor is different from the flywheel cover on my old motor. It's the bottom. On mine the 'gap' is 6.5 inches (or so) and there's a plate to cover it. On the new one the opening is 7.5 inches, and it didn't ship with any kind of plate, and there's no where to place one that I can tell...

 

I've posted a few pictures: http://jfbpix.blogspot.com

 

Any thoughts on what I should do?

 

5) Keep updated.. eventually I'll finish this out with a complete report for the 'next' guy taking this on!

Just leave the plate out - looks like maybe that bell-housing was clearanced for an EA82 flywheel - that's approximately where the grinding is needed to fit one.... but that's just a guess. Someone else's core may have been mated to a 5 speed D/R..... or it could be a JDM artifact of some kind. Not typical, but not totally unusual.

 

Or you could swap your bell-housing over to the new engine if you really want the cover. It's just those few bolts, and about 6 on the oil pan. Put the new rear main seal into your old bell-housing and call it good.

 

GD

Thanks GD, I guess if I ever go to the 5 spd, which as I recall requires the EA82 flywheel, I'm ahead of the game...

Geez... any tricks on getting the pulley off?? Is it reverse threaded? Man. Seems maybe I should have broken this loose before disengaging from the tranny.

Pulley? As in the crank pulley?

 

Remove the #1 plug, and with the piston at the bottom of the bore, thread about 10 feet of 1/4" nylon rope in to the cylinder. Then go to town the bolt with a breaker bar.

 

GD

Great suggestion. Worked like a charm.

 

Now, flywheel bearing? Is a puller the only option? Which way does it go in/out?

And another... do the new gaskets get any kind of sealant or just go on dry? I was told (by the auto parts guys) to put them on dry, but the old ones seemed to have some 'gummy' stuff on them.

And another... do the new gaskets get any kind of sealant or just go on dry? I was told (by the auto parts guys) to put them on dry, but the old ones seemed to have some 'gummy' stuff on them.

 

Intake gaskets - use dealer gaskets ONLY (graphite/metal, not the cheap cardboard junk gaskets), and they are dry installed. Wire wheel the manifold so it's nice and flat (shiny metal) before you torque it down. 12 ft/lbs ONLY and make sure the bolts are wire brused and coated in anti-seize.

 

Knock the old pilot bearing out with a ball-peen or a brass drift, and then carefully install the new one till it's just flush with the tranny side of the flywheel. Tap it in gently hitting only the very outer edge so as not to damage the race.

 

GD

Pulley? As in the crank pulley?

 

Remove the #1 plug, and with the piston at the bottom of the bore, thread about 10 feet of 1/4" nylon rope in to the cylinder. Then go to town the bolt with a breaker bar.

 

GD

 

isnt there a hole on top of the crank for u to put something so it wont move. we had a special pick that went in. anyways just trying to help.

isnt there a hole on top of the crank for u to put something so it wont move. we had a special pick that went in. anyways just trying to help.

 

Not with the engine out of the car. You can thread a pressure plate bolt into the flywheel and put a prybar across the bottom bell-housing studs too. I don't like doing that as it can damage the threads, and bend the PP bolt. The rope techinique is 100% safe, and always works without danger of dropping things in your clutch.

 

GD

Not with the engine out of the car. You can thread a pressure plate bolt into the flywheel and put a prybar across the bottom bell-housing studs too. I don't like doing that as it can damage the threads, and bend the PP bolt. The rope techinique is 100% safe, and always works without danger of dropping things in your clutch.

 

GD

 

Rope technique worky GOOOOOOOOD.. super reliable, and easy to use in the junkyard, by yourself, as well. even though you dont care so much about the junkyard motor (i didnt even put the spark plug back in oops!) its still easier than many ways.

Agreed. Rope trick was SUPER easy.

Well, just an update again...

 

Done with swapping everything over to the new motor. Thanks folks for the help! Tomorrow I'm cleaning out the engine compartment and waiting for some friends to come by for the lift back in...

 

All seems to be going well... a few glitches, but no 'show stoppers' so far...

New question:

There are some 'pins', or mounting studs on the flywheel housing... there are two in the old motor, one in the new one, so I guess I need to transfer one over. Any suggestions for a method??

They are just locating pins - don't worry about them. One is more than enough - if it were me I would pull the other one out too. Those things are a pain in the butt.

 

GD

Thanks everyone!!! The motor is in.

 

I'm dog tired...

 

Tomorrow, I'll fill 'er up with fluids and see how the it goes... Thanks again. Also, tomorrow, I'll make a complete write up ...

Ok tomorrow turned into... thanksgiving in Toledo... now I'm home, the fluids have been added, and I started her up!

All is well... with one exception.

 

I'm watching the water in the radiator (started the motor with no cap on the radiator), and I can't really tell when the fluid is cycling. Also, the fan wasn't coming on. Well, I realized I had forgotten to connect the temp sensor on the radiator so STUPIDLY I tried to connect it while the motor was running... I heard a 'pop' as if I blew a fuse, but I've looked around, and I cannot find any blown fuses. Is there an inline fuse somewhere?? Any suggestions on how to check all of this:

 

Proper cycling of coolant, proper temp sensor behavior, etc.

 

Thanks!!

 

PS: I promise... a write will be coming as a reference for future newbies.

 

To make sure the coolant was cycling, I started the motor with no cap on the radiator to watch for flow. Then I noticed the fan wasn't coming on. Well, I realized I had forgotten to connect the temp sensor on the radiator so STUPIDLY I tried to connect it while the motor was running... I heard a 'pop' as if I blew a fuse, but I've looked around, and I cannot find any blown fuses. Is there an inline fuse somewhere??

 

Any suggestions on how to check all of this:

 

Proper cycling of coolant, proper temp sensor behavior, etc.

 

Just hoping someone can give me a heads up here...

Is there an inline fuse somewhere?? Any suggestions on how to check all of this:

 

Proper cycling of coolant, proper temp sensor behavior, etc.

 

Thanks!!

 

No inline fuses. Just burp the bubbles out of the coolant by squeezing the radiator hoses with the car facing uphill. Fan should cycle before it hits red on the guage, then go back off after a couple minutes. Look for the temp sensor to sit about 1/3 on the guage most of the time.

 

GD