2000 Outback timing belt questions

[2000DuBack]

I have read many useful posts and thank all of you. I am going to be doing my timing belt (93,000 miles)and have purchased the belt, water pump, camshaft seals, crankshaft seal, timing cover seals and a block heater. I will be getting the coolant, subaru additive, oil, filter etc, but is there anything else that I should do while I am in there? Maybe plugs, wires, valve cover gaskets?

Thanks again,

Rich

[porcupine73]

Hi Rich. Actually I just finished doing that same service on '00obw. You do have the 2.5L 4cyl right? (wasn't sure if the limited has the H6 option?)

 

Other things I can think to check while in there: replace any timing belt idlers that seem loose/worn or are leaking grease, especially the toothed/geared one near the water pump.

 

You need a water pump gasket if you don't already have one. Might as well install a new OE thermostat and gasket since you'll have to take it out anyway when doing the water pump. Could do the radiator hoses and bypass return hose if desired but they tend to last a long time.

 

Could replace the alternator/ps pump and AC belts if they haven't been replaced yet.

 

Plugs if they're due, wires if they've never been done before or at all look in bad shape.

 

Before pulling the cam seals, take note on the cam seals as to how far they are driven in so you can avoid driving them too far. The spx cam sprocket holding tool is invaluable (about $60) or can hold the flats on the cam if you're taking the valve covers off or a chain wrench can work but I don't like the chain wrench for those sprockets.

 

You're just about due for checking the valve clearances anyway, which you might as well do if you're going to replace the valve cover gaskets, in addition you probably would want to get the spark plug hole seals (4), and about 12 I think of the sealing grommets for the valve cover bolts.

 

ATF and filter change if not done recently?

[2000DuBack]

Hi Rich. Actually I just finished doing that same service on '00obw. You do have the 2.5L 4cyl right? (wasn't sure if the limited has the H6 option?)

 

Other things I can think to check while in there: replace any timing belt idlers that seem loose/worn or are leaking grease, especially the toothed/geared one near the water pump.

 

You need a water pump gasket if you don't already have one. Might as well install a new OE thermostat and gasket since you'll have to take it out anyway when doing the water pump. Could do the radiator hoses and bypass return hose if desired but they tend to last a long time.

 

Could replace the alternator/ps pump and AC belts if they haven't been replaced yet.

 

Plugs if they're due, wires if they've never been done before or at all look in bad shape.

 

Before pulling the cam seals, take note on the cam seals as to how far they are driven in so you can avoid driving them too far. The spx cam sprocket holding tool is invaluable (about $60) or can hold the flats on the cam if you're taking the valve covers off or a chain wrench can work but I don't like the chain wrench for those sprockets.

 

You're just about due for checking the valve clearances anyway, which you might as well do if you're going to replace the valve cover gaskets, in addition you probably would want to get the spark plug hole seals (4), and about 12 I think of the sealing grommets for the valve cover bolts.

 

ATF and filter change if not done recently?

 

Great, thanks. Where do I look for the cam tool?

Rich

[JohnVT]

take off the oil pump, replace the o-ring on the rear of the oil pump, and reseal the pump with RTV. read other posts for details on that.

 

Probably a good idea to change plugs at 93k if they haven't been changed, and wires too since you're there. Valve cover gaskets should be ok if not leaking now.

[idosubaru]

reseal the oil pump is the one missing item i would certainly address. and check the screws on the back to make sure they are tight. typical advice here is to locktite those screws, but i've yet to encounter loose ones.

 

having extra t-belt pulleys on hand and replacing any that are bad saves down time. return the ones you don't need. this will also allow you to see how tight and smooth a brand new pulley feels so you can compare it to your old ones. tpyically the toothed sprocket (mentioned earlier) is the one to have the most noise from the few that i've seen. i'd at least have one of these available.

 

this may seem like over kill but times have changed. in the past these bearings weren't an issue since timing belt intervals were every 60,000 miles, so you'd have 60,000 - 120,000 and 180,000 to address them. with 100,000 mile timing belts you're expecting the pulley bearings to last 200,000 miles if you skip the first timing belt change. and with the 2.5's all being interference design a failed pulley will eat even a brand new timing belt and cause major internal engine damage (pistons will collide with valves). the bearings can be replaced usually (and even repacked), but that will take some research. the pulleys are quite expensive from Subaru, so it's one very annoying part of the process for someone trying to save some cash. Subaru doesn't replace them all that often so it's not a big deal, but they're not responsible for anything if you're tbelt blows at 170,000 either.

[porcupine73]

Where do I look for the cam tool?

It's 'special tool' ST 499207100 CAMSHAFT SPROCKET WRENCH

Can get it from SPX.

Looks like this:

[porcupine73]

That's true, checking the oil pump rear case screws and replacing the o-ring and resealing is probably a good idea. Make sure the o-ring doesn't slip out of place when putting the pump back on. I used Permatex Ultra Grey; others have used anaerobic sealant with good results too.

 

I bent the case prying because I missed a bolt, stripped out some screws on the rear case because some had loosened up and a couple were super tight, and rotor clearances were at upper service limit replaced the entire pump, about $100.