Brake help in SLC

[powderhound]

First if anyone knows a good suby mechanic in salt lake I would appreciate the heads up.

 

Backstory:

So I was rotating my tires and I snapped off a wheel stud...no problem took it les schwabs and told them to turn the rotors while they're at it to cure my nagging brake induced shudder. So first the guy breaks my abs ring due to "rust related issues". Then turns my rotors twice and the car still shakes like its coming of the frame...got my money back. But now I'm without abs because the missing portion of the ring caused it to want to engage whenever you stopped so I pulled the solenoid fuse for the abs for the moment. So basically I got the wheel stud replaced and my front rotors turned for free...minus one abs ring.

 

Questions:

How do I track down a sticky or collapedsed caliper?

Are they rebuilable?

Would warped rear rotors cause vibration? Tech told me he pulled the ebrake, felt no vibration so rears arent warped...Doesn't the ebake only engage a seperate drum brake? When I hit the brakes the vibration feels like left rear to me.

Any tips/suggestions so I dont just throw money at this...although les schwab's was great about refunding my money.

 

 

TIA!

[ferret]

You are correct about the rear. Pedal is on the disk, E-brake is a smaller set of shoes on the center drum. That's not a test. Best way I know is to check with a runout gauge, but most shadetree mechanics don't own one.

 

Either rear can cause the shake. I might jack up one side at a time and just spin the wheel. It may take someone to gently push on the pedal. And as you spin the tire, feel for the uneven drag. Thats the side I would suspect.

 

Tone ring in the front is a different story. Better to get a new one from a dealer than deal with a "rusted used" one from a junkyard.

[powderhound]

Curious. You'd think before refunding my money they would have at least checked the rear rotors. Lazy perhaps. So it still could be just rotors...

[idosubaru]

i haven't had tons of warped rotors, but the ones i have had you could tell just by rotating the tires by hand. now, i'll admit that it was very small differences, but you could feel the tire "drag" at one point while turning it by hand. try to use the same stroke and speed/force and method of spinning while going around so you're sure to notice, mine was that light. but it was there.

 

and typically you can tell which one it is in the fronts. the front drivers side will be obvious...if you "can't quite tell" it's probably because it's the other side. not sure on the rears, don't recall tracking those down though i did replace one before.