powderhound

I'm aware of what I'm looking at. I've been driving 2.2 manuals for the last 16 years. My question is in regards to 96 Legacy OUTBACK 5mt tachometers. I've seen outbacks with 6250 or 6500 redlines. Just not sure if that was only on 2.5s. If all outback redlines are 6250 or 6500 then this cluster is from something else and that would explain the 99k on the odo. Edit to add. I just found a yt vid of a 96 5sp legacy outback that indeed has a 6k redline. Thanks for the replies. If somebody wants to clarify when/what/why some have a higher redline that would be appreciated.

I'm looking at a 96 Outback 5sp 2.2 with extremely low miles. I'm trying to determine if the cluster has been swapped. The tach in it redlines at 6k. I thought they were all slightly over like 6250 or 6500. Can anybody confirm what a 96 2.2 outback tach looks like? tia

Go to a parts yard and buy a used one. Hell, they're so cheap buy two. After struggling with shitty rebuilt napa gold alts I went to the yard got a used one rebuilt by fuji for 20 bucks. It's a no brainer.

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Where are the best places in the country to look for rust free Subarus? I'm specifically looking for a 95 or 96 Legacy 5mt wagon. pref 96 for a few minor reasons. I've been checking portland, seattle, and denver craigslists almost daily. The pacific northwest seems to be the honey hole but I'm wondering if I'm overlooking a spot. Also if anybody has info/tips/advice on driving a newly bought used car across the country it would be appreciated.

Or just pull the abs fuse and live without it. I personally hate abs, esp in winter. That's what I did when mine broke. I love how some older audis have a switch to turn off the abs...they got it...but now I guess the nanny state rules.

I've had a new tire shaved when i needed one. It is a specialty job that not many shops do. If the tires have less than 10K left on them just buy 4 new would be my opinion.

It's the bushings. It's not a big deal. I bought a 95 like that and drove it 100k before I fixed it. I never had a problem finding gears, it was more the metal on metal rattling that got to me eventually.

Honda HR-V will be at dealers very soon and it sounds like what you need. AWD, ~22K, and slightly larger than an impreza.

I'm having the same issue with a 98 Legacy that I just bought. My 95 Legacy that I totaled in Nov had the same issue as well. It seems completely random and will come and go in the same trip. Being a manual I just live with it and keep it above 2500rpm. The 98 only just started doing it though I've only owned it for ~1500 miles. It started after I changed the oil and installed a tach. Probably coincidence and unrelated. The 98 has a cel p0440 for something evap related. I think this may be the issue. My 95 was throwing no codes but was having evap issues like no pressure released when undoing the gas cap. Maybe have the evap system smoke tested? I'm just gonna live with mine as this is a 800$ throwaway vehicle that I have no interest in spending money on.

Ok thanks. Not sure when they switched but my 95 is OBD1 and I'm pretty sure it doesn't have an egr valve.

I totaled my 95 L wagon yesterday. Got 10k miles out of all the work I just did to it. So assuming the engine is ok, and that may be a big assumption at this point as it sounded pretty bad, what can I easily drop it into? It is a 5sp. There's a decent looking 98 L 5sp on cl with blown headgaskets for 500$. would that be a decent candidate? As always TIA.

No gasket on the oil pan. I trust my mechanic implicitly. He only works on Subarus. He is human though.

Mechanic says oring(s) in the pan were replaced. I have switched to 10-40 oil. Waiting to reinsert the dipstick has helped with getting an accurate reading. I was already aware of the need for the dipstick logo to be correctly orientated. So at 500 miles now it has used 1/2 qt. Before all the engine work and with an external leak it was using ~1qt/3000. 1qt/1k seems excessive to me. I've read a few posts saying new heads/valves on old bottom end can cause oil consumption. Is that basically it at this point...the rings are leaking? Is there anything I can try to clean them or better verify that is the issue? Am I causing damage using 1qt/1k as long as I keep it filled up? tia

It's a genuine subaru pcv. I've driven 400 miles since the last oil change and it's down 1/4 to 1/2 quart. Let's call it a 1/3. The problem I'm having is the oil level is hard to read. One side of the dipstick is 1/2 quart low and the other side appears full. I had this issue with a previous 92 I owned. Never had this problem until all the engine work was done. It's frustrating as I really have no idea how much oil is in there.

95 legacy 5mt 211K. The engine was gone over with new headgaskets, new tbelt, new seals everywhere @202K. Recently the engine has started using a lot of oil. I can't say right now how much how fast but it goes down daily driving ~80mi/day. There are no leaks. I pulled the hose off the pcv and it was wet with oil. The pcv was replaced with the engine overhaul. My only other issue is on a warm restart the engine will search for idle much like after an ecu reset. It drops down below 500 saves itself then eventually idles normal. This issue began right after the overhaul and I was waiting to see if it would go away. It hasn't. Oh, also threw P420 recently I assume due to the honeycomb being soaked with oil. I reset that and it hasn't come back on. So I'm wondering what the cause of the oil use is. Is it possible I got a bad pcv or is there somewhere else I should be looking?

We have replaced all lifters and the engine is quiet now. Blew out all the passages but saw no debris present. The removed lifters are being sent back to the manf for inspection. No RTV was used...we used Subaru 3 bond. Apparently it was a defective lifter. Thanks for all the help guys. The car still has some other minor issues but I'll start another thread to address those if need be.

Hopefully she finds this thread. +1 for reseal the engine. I just did a complete reseal on my 95 with 203K on it. Never even considered another engine. Unless she absolutely nuked it, that engine is perfectly fine and ready to go over 300K.

Ok. I'll have to check if the rocker assembly was gone over...had a friend do most of the work. Assuming it wasn't, why would the new lifters be louder than the old lifters? Also would this clogged assembly cause just one lifter to not pump up? It sounds like it's just one. Thanks for the help.

95 legacy 203k. Recently replaced the headgaskets and put in new lifters. The little sewing machine tick now sounds like a hammer. The heads had the oil passages blown out and were resurfaced. Oil pump was resealed with a skim coat of subaru sealant. We are going to put a new set of lifters in guessing that we got a defective lifter. Is there an oil passage that may have been missed?

Fair enough. My fronts went from no leak to catastrophic failure so I guess it didn't have time to build up on the exhaust.

350 for an oil pan gasket!?? Umm I would never return there and possibly consider legal action. Gloyale nailed it. It's either leaking out the front seals or the rear main and or seperator plate. When my front seals went it didn't drip onto the exhaust. My current oil leak is in the rear and drips onto the exhaust. If the leak is at the rear it requires engine removal to fix so I would wait until something else requiring engine removal needs fixing. Assuming it's a drip and not spewing out, taking a torch to the accumulated oil on the exhaust will take care of the excessive smoking.

I have my ABS relay in my center console cubby where it belongs, imo. I absolutely hate abs in the winter. It frustrates me to hit the brakes and not slow down. I feel confident in my ability to pulse the brakes. Of course this takes some sense of vehicle dynamics and clearly some people on the road have little clue what to do when they are locked up and beginning to rotate.

Losing coolant and the greyish gunk is building up on the oil filler cap. I change the oil every 3k and the last change was the first sighting of it. I wiped it clean and it is starting to reappear. I guess I'm making the assumption they are leaking based on those two items and the fact that I was driving it when it overheated ~50K ago, which I also assume slightly warped the heads. The car does not overheat. There is carbon? residue on the walls of the overflow tank.

Thanks for the reply. It's a heated garage that I really need access to. Some say you can't properly torque the bolts with the engine in. Thoughts? I've sent a msg to my mechanic asking if he can do them without engine removal but he hasn't gotten back to me. Funds are extremely tight so I would prefer this route.