powderhound

95 legacy 5mt ~160k. Car idles fine. lifting the revs to about 1k one begins to hear a rhythmic clacking/knocking. Noise is not audible with the driver door open. Close the door you hear it. Listening from underhood noise seems to be center to rear. Sounds like half the engine isn't getting any oil. Now the driveability issues. Car stumbles under heavy load below 2700 in any gear though it is more noticeable 1,2,3. Once it nears 3k it accelerates as per normal. Will check the timing on monday. I've only had the car since 110k with no maintenance records from previous owner. Suggestions? tia.

mfd 5/95. It was going to be a preemptive purchase anyway. I guess i could get just change the rear diff at the same time? Who knows maybe if I fix the shifter bushing/linkage slop the rattling will go away.

I found a guy selling a 5mt from a 95 legacy for 200. Was going to buy it. He says his is 3.90 fd. The code on my strut tower, also 95 legacy, says TY752VAAAA which from everything I can find is 4.11 fd. Can this be? on the http://www.gearhack.com/myink/ViewPage.php?file=docs/Subaru%20Transmission%20Chart this ty752vaaaa belongs to MY 94 outback and shows 4.11 but the legacies below it have exact same gears with 3.90. Is this just due to tires?

yes they do. Tested the alternator at napa and it failed. Replaced. Sounds Sweet now. Added bonus, disconnecting the battery reset the cel for rear o2 sensor. Thanks everybody. Anybody need a roomate in SLC? lol.

Thanks. I want to vote for the alternator now. With the belt off and free spinning the alternator there is a noticeable wobble in the alternator pulley. New alternators come with a new pulley?

ok. sorry. I'm a bit frazzled pneumonia and homeless and car-less = stress. 95 legacy 5sp 145k. I guess im not sure exactly what the harmonic balancer is. Is this the outer pulley that the belt for the alt and ps is on? I like the idea of listening to it but where to put the screwdriver to listen to the balancer...isn't it spinning?

So I was sitting in the bank drivethu yesterday and I thought somebody was running a jack hammer next to me...nope just suby. I can make this nasty drone/gravel/vibration come and go by adjusting the tension on the alt belt. I took the belt off and spun the alt by hand...seemed to spin free and easy but I'm not sure what it is supposed to feel like. With the belt tensioned just enough to not slip, the noise is barely there. Seeing as it's saturday and my mechanic is sleeping I come to you all for help. Btw everything I own is in the car and I'm homeless in SLC, again. TIA.

yep good ol Charlie says "it's eating gears"...great. And 285 to replace a radiator!? How hard is that to do yourself? I think I can manage it but dont want to get in too deep...have two days off work though so I have time. Do you think changing the gear oil would be at all beneficial at this point?

It's definately not heatshileds..I can change the sound by moving the stick around. Fearing bearings. It'll be making a visit to the local guru as I somehow got a rock between the right fan and radiator and put a hole in the radiator...not fun when you're 300 miles from home and 30 from what some call civilization. Stop leak got me home...running 100 percent water. It seems to come in threes...I wonder whats next.

no. It sounds like something rattling in the bushings but if that was te case i would think it would rattle cold from the get go.

95 Legacy 5mt 130K. Transmission is making a noise something like a clicking or clacking...whats odd to me is that is does not make the noise when cold. If I drive say 15 mins it begins. Most notable in third gear and fourth. It will also make the noise in nuetral if you get the rpms up around 3k. Also I can make the noise go away or lessen by moving the stick around (bushings are shot and stick moves quite liberally side to side while in gear). Also only makes the noise under load...let off the gas and it stops clacking. What say ye? I'm so perplexed as to why its dead silent when cold.

Well you may want to check to see if this car has had the alt replaced under the recall. 98 Legacys had a recall on the alternator...this is exactly what mine did and was replaced for free under the recall.

I'm going to look at a 84 gl hatch tomorrow 160k, 5sp, 4wd for $600. This being my first older gen suby is there anything particular to look out for? TIA.

anybody...need 4S3BJ6322N7913444 report

8hrs!? book time...I was just quoted 5hrs by the local subaru indie shop to replace the transmission and clutch.

no he didnt...but by miracle he replaced a stretched stud on the other side and didnt break that tone ring....hmmm monkeys learn fast. BTW les schwabs will never see my roo again...BigO is much better.

mine failed from a tire with a leak and LOTS of highway miles...and the rear tires are wearing much faster than the fronts...about 2x...and I havent been good about rotating. I suppose I should address that first in case its something more than just an alignment issue. Maybe I'll go get four new tires (cause Ill need them anyway) and an alignment and see if we can figure out why the rears are wearing so fast.

Ok answering my own questions today...Subaru tells me the vc is part of the tranny. So given these options which would you guys want for a used tranny: 133k-550 147K-450 (but its a 97...not sure if the gears are the same??) 166K-500 186K-400 And is there anyway to know if the vc is good on the used tranny? Short of looking at the car it came off and seeing if the tires match I guess...if they even have the car there. Thanks everybody.

I know the tone ring is bad b/c the monkey replacing my wheel stud at les schwabs broke a quarter section out of it when he hit it with a hammer...needless to say i didn't pay them anything that day...but it seems they are weak b/c I just had a look at the right rear one and it has a crack in it.

So i found a life insurance policy I can cash out to get money...Now I'm considering just replacing the tranny and clutch b/c I have 166k on the original clutch and there are multiple used trannys around for ~500. My question is...does the VC come as part of a new(used) transmission? If so, this is def the economical way to go. How much would you pay somebody to put that in (new clutch and tranny)...I have several local suby mechanics willing to help me out.

I have a broken tone ring and it causes the abs to come on every time you touch the breaks...I pulled the fuse for the abs since I dont like it anyway.

so nipper you were successful with removing the rear half shaft? Seems jamal says it wont work or wont work to a great degree for any period of time. Why cant we get a definite answer on this. Was your vc fried at the time nipper?

both the legacys we have idle at 650...when I had a dirty iac it caused a high idle around 1000. Yours doesnt sound low just rough...have you changed the plugs and wires recently? If not, might start there. Is this an auto? If so, does putting it in neutral at stop lights "cure" the shudder. If so there is a transmission problem...start with flushing the fluid. Good luck.

LOL...tight turns in reverse bring my car to a complete stop...I really have to gas it to get out of a parallel parking spot. Well nipper Im driving to work today...scared...i'll take the ramp much slower.

I guess for 745 cad i could just buy a new vc. Anyway I just read thru the whole danger of driving w/o rear driveshaft thread...appears no consensus was ever reached. Did soa ever get back to you nipper? Turns out the guy who started the thread is also in SLC so im gonna try and touch base with him and see how its working. I agree jamal but im not planing on driving cross country like this...just tryung to buy time to get the money to fix it...If i get stranded 5 miles from home i really dont care...the vc is fried already so whats the harm if i experiement? Also Jamal can I pull a vc from a junkyard and try it? Will any 5mt awd suby work? Lots of junked subys here. Thanks for your input...your knowledge is appreciated.