powderhound

yeah its weird right? There isn't much wind tonight. And when I drove it the temp came back up which is forcing more cold air in so I dunno what wrong. I've only had work done once in town and that was at Phoenix Foreign Car Service. Harry and Bob are very good honest mechanics. They mostly work on Volvos but they do a lot of Subaru work too. Also I've heard good things about Hansen's on south Park. They might be cheaper than Phoenix.

I warmed up my car tonight and drove a short distance < 5 mins. I sat with the car idleing and watched the temp gauge go down all the way to cold. Is this normal just something I've never noticed? Temps are not too cold...about 0F. Some background possibly unrelated. Last night I drove a short distance <5 mins did not warm the car up. Shut it off and went in store...came back out and it started right up and then quickly killed itself. Then it would not start. 10 mins later it started.

I would argue yes. Others here (ahhm Rweddy) would argue that 1500 fro HG replacement is no big deal for an otherwise reliable car...bu that's just it...it's not otherwise reliable. We had an 01 outback and it was the worst experience ever...3 failed fuel injectors on 2 occasions, external HG leaks, gas leaks, recall for the rear sub frame rusting out, clutch judder, an unresponsive dealership, etc etc. We will not be going back to subaru we traded it for a CR-V. Now my 98 is borderline...only $1000 in repairs in 142K and our 92 is bomb-proof...I fully expect it to last longer than my 98. If only the windshield didn't leak when it rains...

Comparing Toyota truck reliability to anything else on the road is apples and oranges. They're simply indestructible. If you want a reliable car a new(er) subaru is not the way to go.

I always put my skis in the back for several reasons. First is gas mileage...racks just kill you on mileage. Second I like my skis...road salt, dirt, grime, and sunshine all play havoc with bindings, bases, etc. Of course you can put your skis in a bag or rocket box but then your back at the mileage. I guess a rocket box would be best but they are pricey. If you're really cheap like me I have built a platform out of plywood that rests on the wheel pillars. My skis and stuff go underneath and I can sleep on top.

96 5sp only Others here would argue that $1000-$2000 for HG replacement is just a possible minor annoyance of any other year including 96 autos.

Umm Yeah. I'm beginning to think Rweddy works for SOA. Find a 98 Legacy L with an ej22, put some outback struts on it, spray some bedliner around the bottom and voila you've got a bombproof 98 outback. 2.5s blow...literally.

You can still afford to accelerate hard??? I miss those days. All I can smell is burning money when I get into the throttle over half way. Thanks Texas.

Why buy a saab with a subaru engine when you can get the real thing. Also I think GM has swam in the saab gene pool longer than subaru so... For what it's worth I will NEVER by a car with an ej25...a truly horrific engine.

We too are required to have front plates in WI. After mine got ripped off in an accident I never replaced it...until one day my kind county sherriff took time out from his busy schedule to interrupt my buzz cruise with a warning to get that thing on there. Mine is mounted with some wire around one of the lower pillars on the bumper cover. After pulling into a couple steep driveways it is now bent in half for maximum aerodynamic efficiency.

My 98 hits a rev limiter at 112mph. We had a 92 fwd sedan that could do 135 down a hill.

Would there be any danger or damage potential to driving with out the rear stabilizer bar on. The wrecking yard sent me the front rear control arm and I'm thinking of using it with the stabilizer bar removed.

Does anyone have any tips or things to look out for when replacing the rear control arm? TIA.

I was driving on a 4 wheeler trail in the northwoods and I have bent a rear suspension component. I believe it to be the lower control arm. It is the bar that the swaybar bushing connects to. Can I replace just one? Anything else I should replace while under there? How long for DIY? any DIY tips? THANKS. Why do I do stupid stuff right before long cross country trips?

Usually get 25 no matter what kind of driving. Just cleaned the TB and IAC and now am getting 26-28. Just got 35 on the highway with a 20mph tailwind...I now plan my trips around the wind direction.

GM customer service at its finest. Lovely...another reason I'm glad we'll never buy a new soob again.

Open Deck + Turbo = self destruct. Trade it in and get an 05' GT...debadge it and voila...sleeper.

If you are really worried about it you can get the tread depth measured on the used tires and take the new one to a tire shop that will shave it down to the same depth. But those are like 70K mile tires right? So I can't see 3800 having used up any measurable amount of tread unless you drive hard or have a poorly aligned car. Like my 75K mile tires that are looking half worn after 16K...ouch. As for driving on the spare I wouldn't worry about it...it the clutch pack goes out soon you can blame it on yourself but who's to say what did it.

Nothing cheaper or simpiler than my setup about $15 plus all the savings in gas if you cruise long distance on the highway especially...I left the "fork board" at my parents house so It'll be 10 days before I can get pictures up...woohoo almost outta here for the summer.

I'll try tomorrow. Basically your bike is locked into the skewer thing that is made for truck beds and vans. And the handlebar gets held to the grip on the ceiling. Works great.

Go to a bike shop and get the little skewer dealy that you can screw down to a piece of board. Then all you have to do is take off the front wheel and seat post and you can stand your bike up in the back along the side...saves all your cargo space. I then use a ski strap to hold the bar to the oh sheet handle in the back and the thing is stable as can be. As for the tarp get some velcro and attatch it that way you can leave it in all summer and take it out easily if need be. I prefer the in the car method for gas mileage and keeping road n bugs off the frame. Happy trails.

Not to be a downer but I think the Mobil 1 is actually too slippery for the synchros to mesh properly. It could have been what destroyed them so early. It is why the Redline NS is prefered. Or castrol syntorq if you're loaded......it's too expensive here Setright. What are you paying over there? Maybe you could import some to us all.

You could possibly have a mis stamped dipstick. I've heard of it happening on other makes. I would stick with 5.8Q. It's a 2005...take it to the dealer and ask them what gives.

Yeah it's running fine otherwise and the cel has not come back (yet). So..ummm..I f'd up one of the screws on top of the iac. Not sure I can ever get it out now. Maybe I can soak it and grab it with some pliers or drill it?

Thanks guys. The spark plugs are new but the wires are still original. I want to take the iac off and clean it but am not sure how to do so. Do I need to take out the two little screws that go into the gray part and are perpendicular to the ground or is it the two longer bolts that are parallel to the ground. If someone has detailed instructions/pictures for removing the iac that would really be sweet.