powderhound

Well then...this is an interesting item http://machv.com/viscoupel.html not for a sub application but interesting nonetheless

ok so this IS the same debate as that other thread. So you say it wont work to remove the rear half shaft? right?

hey jamal what do you mean "car moves without a prop shaft"?

WHat? where did you get that from this thread?

so thats a hell yes for that slide being related? musta been cause i couldnt explain it. freaked me out. so does this mean the whole drivetrain is toast? So if i drop the half shaft am i safe®? How long can i drive it like that?...LOL till it snows...been in awd so long i wouldnt know what to do. So sheet now you got me scared nipper. AARRRRGGGGG why me (this is just one tiny thing wrong in my life right now) maybe meeting said tree wouldnt be so bad. jk...sorta. thanks nipper...Oh do you think a shop would drop the shaft for me or would they say nononono too dangerous. Or can i do it myself...CHEAP tools and no lift?

2. Are you serious? The other day i was on a freeway ramp and it had rained but i hit the apex and it started to oversteer like i was on ice. I was like wtf? I was able to correct it like you would if you were sliding in snow or ice so it did go where i pointed it but do you think this is related?

Thanks nipper...more qs. 1. What is the net effect of removing the rear halfshaft? 2. I realize long highway runs have the worst effect on the VC...the fluid gets constantly sheared...but its shot anyway...so do you think driving around town where you make lots of turns and get the hop is worse for the rest of the drivetrain (i'm guessing the center diff gets abused, rear too?) than just long shots on the highway? 3. How do i remove the rear halfshaft...do you think a shop would be willing to do it? 4. would this be related to that big thread about converting to 2wd..I cant seem to find it now but it was a raging debate as to weather it was possible...do you remember? 5. Oh and ive asked this b4 but never got a response...are the vc's interchangable...could i get one off a different model year at a yard...theoretically they should last forever...but mine's shot so that might not be a good idea...what if i had access to a known good one on a junker? Thanks

My 98 legacy 5sp has torque bind. I cant afford to fix it. What would you do to minimize the damage while waiting for funds to fix it?

you probably don't want to use the ns in the rear diff...that is not its intended use. the ns means it has friction modifiers that would not be needed and perhaps be harmful to the rear diff. Can't find mobil one gear oil?! I'm sure they have it at walstarmart. And yeah when i bought the ns in the minneapolis area i was in a sketchy back alley shop that was the only supplier around...it was weird to say the least.

The Redline NS goes in the gearbox. I've had it in for 65K...initially helped the synchros but now seems to need replacement. There are as many different recs for gear oil on here as there are members...some say the redline doesn't last long. Mobil 1 in the diff will work fine.

+1 for photocrops Somebody put a lame subaru badge on the front of a murano, camry, 3, and crv.

So according to porcupines info it is the belt and not the engine that extended it 105k...A CA spec engine is the same as mine no? So if all the new belts are 105 I should have that belt on my car no? still those pesky pulleys though? Is there a simple way to diagnose their condition? TIA.

Yeah the tensioner was replaced at 83k. H2O pump and oil pump and all front seals at 103K. Pulleys are all original so that could be bad. Do you need to do the seals again once they've been replaced with the brown ones? I realize they're cheap and yeah might as well right. I agree this belt will last another year at least. I do about 20k/year...prolly less now. Can the pulleys be heard through the cover? I have a slight squeak but I think its in the alternator. I guess I can wait for the clutch to fail and then pull the engine and do it all. knocking on wood as we speak.

thanks for the info. hrmm. No money. Root canal(s) mounting. And an interference engine. Ran the original to 83K so I guess I'll gamble. I could sell it. This is the most overpriced suby market I've ever seen...Anybody in SLC feel like doing a timing belt? Thanks again. Interesting about the CA spec...anybody know why that is?

Hello all. I am wondering if all the new belts are 105k. My 98L 2.2l has a 60K interval but if a new subaru belt was installed would that be a 105K belt? I had the belt canged at 103K (2nd time after original was done at 83K and then the cam seals started leaking at 103K) in 2004 when the new belts were 105K...now at 165K I am wondering if Im due or if I have 40K more on this belt. I plan to call the mechanic who replcaed it but thought I'd check with yall first. thanks.

For a more permanent fix I put several layers of thin strips of duct tape along the window edge to "build up" the thickness of the window. It creates a tighter seal and no wind noise.

funner than anything...oh...oh...more fun...right.

MOthballs will keep rodents away. We put them around the outsid eof our house when it begins to get cool in the fall to keep down the mouse population. Mothballs and a hungry cat work best.

Cindy's Classics 608-423-4307 aka subaru heaven. located east of town on 12 in cambridge. More locally harry at phoenix foreign car service has always worked on my roos. Also heard that hansens on park st. is good. Try putting an ad on craigslist looking for a subaru mechanic. I did that in slc and got my clutch replaced for 150 and a case of beer.

That is a bit high for a 92 w/ 130k...but it is madtown...subies fetch a premium there. For awhile I was making money buying them in the twin cities and driving them down to madison to sell...good part time job for any student.

Incredible. If my parents had been taken care of this way on the recurring failing fuel injectors on their 02 obw they might not have switched to Honda.

when did the tdi become an unreliable engine?? It is without doubt a most bombproof engine.

I got sick of looking at mine and found it dissappeared nicely with a small piece of electrical tape.

Checker will let you use the code reader for free. There is an option to clear codes. Also have had luck disconnecting battery for ten minutes but that was on a 96.

ditto daehttub2000 on the clutch. I've had people on this board tell me my clutch is toast and I've since drivien it across the country twice and have been climbing Big Cottonwood canyon on a daily basis this winter. Yeah it engages high but if you're use to it you can compensate...or like nipper said just dial it out a little bit on the adjustment. As long as you can still accelerate you don't need to replace it.