powderhound

Offer an H6 with a manual...like the rest of the world gets. Stop trying to compete in the entry level luxury segement vs audi, bmw. +1 for fix the dealer network

yep. doesn't matter what I do I get 25mpg. 98 legacy 161k 5mt.

It is quite easy to disable the abs. SInce a monkey at LEs Schwabs broke my abs tone ring and that caused my abs to engage everytime I hit the brakes I have had mine disabled. All you need to do is pull the abs solenoid fuse. It is one fuse and is clearly labled in your owners manual. It causes the abs light to be on which doesnt bother me but a piece of electrical tape can solve that too.

I am looking at buying a clutch kit off ebay. What all should be included with these? I'm looking at one from gripforce clutches for $152 shipped that has Exedy Pressure Plate Exedy Clutch Disc Release Bearing Pilot Bearing Alignment Tool Are there any other parts I would need? cable? probably rear seperator plate if mine is plastic. I have found a local shop willing to let me bring in the parts and they will do it for $350 cash.

when I had this problem last summer it was throwing a code and I was able to fix it by running throttle body cleaner through the iac. Very easy to fix.

What's all this jibberish about cold starts? I've cranked mine over more than a few times at -30F...starts right up and runs fine...the only time it didn't start was -50F in Big Sky MT...Not a single car in the parking lot started. You've obviously never owned one. 1998 L Wagon with 161K original engine, clutch, battery, etc, etc. Oh and if the ej22 crank is weak why do so many pilots trust and swear by them in small aircraft? I know it can be isolated in ME but you have the internet...get some facts.

Thats funny. We're at 150+ in the upper cottonwoods and EVERYONE is bummed at this season's dryness.

Reminds me of why I left MT...It doesnt snow...I was at Big Mtn once and it might have been 10 degrees and we were getting freezing rain. I asked a patroller how cold does it have to be to snow...his reply "We get a lot of wierd **** aloft" Anyway at least you're in MT where the population might only be 30% Californians...whereas here in UT if there is a flake in the sky you better have your head on a swivel cause its only a matter of time until one of them crashes near, into, or around you. BTW...its gonna get going good up there next week.

A 97 Legacy L absolutely is a 2.2. As for timing belts...as per your calculations it would be due soon in the 95 too, unless it was done at 60 with the new 105K belts but I doubt it. But the 95 is non-interference so. Plus a nine year old car with only 63k seems fishy...things can go wrong from under use too.

95? That was just GM pre testing parts they could issue a tsb for later. I loved that tsb. It was just for the salt belts...SOA was like oops I guess people actually drive these things where they might rust...duh...maybe we shouldn't cheap out on a CROSSMEMBER.

Curious. You'd think before refunding my money they would have at least checked the rear rotors. Lazy perhaps. So it still could be just rotors...

First if anyone knows a good suby mechanic in salt lake I would appreciate the heads up. Backstory: So I was rotating my tires and I snapped off a wheel stud...no problem took it les schwabs and told them to turn the rotors while they're at it to cure my nagging brake induced shudder. So first the guy breaks my abs ring due to "rust related issues". Then turns my rotors twice and the car still shakes like its coming of the frame...got my money back. But now I'm without abs because the missing portion of the ring caused it to want to engage whenever you stopped so I pulled the solenoid fuse for the abs for the moment. So basically I got the wheel stud replaced and my front rotors turned for free...minus one abs ring. Questions: How do I track down a sticky or collapedsed caliper? Are they rebuilable? Would warped rear rotors cause vibration? Tech told me he pulled the ebrake, felt no vibration so rears arent warped...Doesn't the ebake only engage a seperate drum brake? When I hit the brakes the vibration feels like left rear to me. Any tips/suggestions so I dont just throw money at this...although les schwab's was great about refunding my money. TIA!

fork is fine...Im just wondering how the clutch can slip seemingly out of the blue and so severly...it was slipping in 3rd...and then the next moment be completely gone. Is it possible that transmission fluid is leaking and then gets burned off when the clutch slips? or oil? I don't know...trans fluid level seems fine and normal...its not using any oil...or much.

Yes it is a cable actuated clutch. Yes there is a creak sound...has come and gone for 100k miles. what does it mean though? Will highway driving appreciably wear my clutch? That is, I should be able to drive awhile on the freeway yet? Thanks, I'm trying to drive this car to utah (1200 miles).

98 2.2 157K What would cause a clutch to slip and then not to slip. Yesterday I was driving along and upon the slightest acceleration the clutch would slip in 3,4,and5. After I got in fifth it went away. Today i floored it going up a steep hill in fifth and no clutch slip. What gives? I realize at 160k the original clutch is on borrowed time but it seems to work fine. Also seemingly unrelated the centering spring is now gone on the 1,2 side. The shift into 3 and 4 seems easier, smoother now...is that possible?

attatch a bungee cord to the center console that you can wrap around the stick and hold it in gear.

I thought that was obvious since only manuals have a viscous coupling.

I have the first symptoms of torque bind after long runs on the highway. What I am wondering is if the VC from a 92 legacy will work in my 98. Also how difficult is it to remove/install?

http://www.subaruhighmileageclub.com

Just bought a 96 legacy wagon 5sp 152K for $2700! This car is mint. Ladies father in law owned it and he has every piece of paper for its history...the guy had the oil changed at the dealer! OMG. Only thing wrong is the shifter bushings are shot (can move shifter side to side while in gear...bushings right?) That's no big deal is it? Oh and its for my girlfriend...maybe I can steal the alloys off it.

Slegacy--weren't you the one on here bragging about your mpg increase? LOL--not trying to smoke all four tires like you're driving a 911turbo would help...plus you wouldn't be out 1100 for a clutch...thats like 380 gallons of gas...way to go.

I would say that is a fantastic price. I've been quoted $1000 just for a clutch job.

great another electrical gremlin just waiting to pop up...sorry audi/vw fans.

I folded some paper and put in the area near the triangle. It pinches the seal and never falls out...cheap and easy...just like my...oh.

The good news: I can have a 92 Legacy wgn awd 5sp w/ 170k for free. The bad news: It has rust above the windshield that leaks water through when it rains and the last time I drove it the windshield actually shudders above 70mph. The rust isn't so bad that you can see through. Q: Can this be fixed? Can the windshield ever be replaced...it has a chip? This is my father's car that we bought for $2000 about 40K miles ago. I want to sell it...madison has a VERY favorable Subaru market. There is a 92 awd 5sp w/ 230K in the paper for $1500. Side note: Is the clutch in the 92 swappable with my 98?...much stronger than mine.