Is that front wheel bearing

[yarikoptic]

Edited: asked about 2001 LL Bean (6cyl 3L engine)

 

Previousely I've reported my concern about moaning sounds coming out from front

http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=68162

but since I've decided for myself that it is simply tires which were disbalanced for a while, I slept tight

 

2 days ago, while I was taking a bit "involved" turn (to the right) at speed slightly higher than 50mph, I've mentioned not a pleasant sound coming from front left wheel -- it is not a tire sound:

it is more of metal kind,

the pitch of it not high not low and depends on the speed,

volume seems to depend on speed and curvature of the turn,

it seems to propagate through the car body well, ie that it comes from the part which is more or less rigidly assembled to the car

I could not reproduce it yet on left turns

It persists: at every extended and relatively curved turn to the right at high speeds (50-90 mph) I get the sound :-/

 

So, my suspicion is unfortunate: front wheel bearing... Or something else could produce it? I haven't yet tried wheel on freeplay -- didn't have a chance to raise the vehicle. And I am not sure if that would be already that prominent to feel it

Heh heh. I had a problem with rear bearing in previous legacy - last time it was changed, friend mechanic could not take it off the axle without cutting it apart with electric welder. That is why the question follows:

since there is no big noise at regular driving, I hope that it doesn't heat, so I hope it wasn't deformed to stuck completely with the hub. Did anyone succeed to DIY front wheel bearing change? well - I could take the hub to some close by shop and ask to press it out, press a new one in, I guess..

 

as I got from subaru service manual the hub is pressed into bearing but I can't get from the diagram if the bearing is also pressed into axle housing? (which would not allow me to simply take the hub to the shop) -- I am just missing whole assembly picture in my mind

 

Anyone could recommend reliable/nottooexpensive mechanic in central NJ area?

 

Thanks everyone in advance

[Legacy777]

If it's vehicle speed dependent and turn dependent....in my mind it's a pretty good bet it's the wheel bearing.

 

You can take the hub off, bring it to a shop, and have them press out & in the new bearing. The axle is not pressed in, it just slides in and out.

[idosubaru]

sounds like a wheel bearing to me.

ball joints will also cause curve and speed dependent wobbling, but usually the only noise you'll hear is anything associated with the wobbling - not an actual metal sound from the joint itself.

 

if you can't find a good and reasonable mechanic or cost is an issue, swapping a used hub is a good option as well. these guys have one in PA for $65:

1-800-358-8770. if you can't do it yourself, a mechanic can install a hub in well under an hour. depending on your mechanic, wheel bearing replacements can run quite high.

[yarikoptic]

Thank you guys for sharing your opinion - I really appreciate it

You can take the hub off, bring it to a shop, and have them press out & in the new bearing. The axle is not pressed in, it just slides in and out.

From what I've read/seen so far (DS-6 in MSA5T0105A28297, and DS-18 -- DS-21 in MSA5T0105A28299), I would need to bring Housing/Bearing/Hub assembly really (first hub is pressed out on the outer side, then bearing is "removed" from the inner side of the housing). Correct me if I am wrong?

 

Good that I've not rushed into wheel alignment as soon as I got this "new" car

[yarikoptic]

ball joints will also cause curve and speed dependent wobbling, but usually the only noise you'll hear is anything associated with the wobbling - not an actual metal sound from the joint itself.

What are the other well defined signs of problematic ball join which could have help me to rule out that possibility?

[idosubaru]

that you're getting metal sounds and your first post referenced "moaning sounds" and have very significant amounts of play speaks of wheel bearings. that is not a ball joint. i didn't see the "moaning sounds" post reference the first time i replied, i just now saw that, or i wouldn't have mentioned ball joints.

 

alignments are typically over-rated, people pay for way too many of them, but in this case you'll need one after the new hub is installed.

[yarikoptic]

alignments are typically over-rated, people pay for way too many of them, but in this case you'll need one after the new hub is installed.

From my experience, I just know, that whenever I was changing CVs I had to take top two housing bolts off to release it (I didn't succeeed to pray out housing from the ball joint :-\) - so I just marked down the orientation and I might say that was good enough -- it seems that no bad wearing pattern on the tires since then, so I deduce that camber didn't change much ;-) Also if you don't drive offroad too much then probably toe-in should not change unless tie-rods got changed (which I've done on my previous nissan and then did 'alignment' using a loong string and a ruller ;-))

I wanted to do alignment though since I felt that it doesn't stay straight up to my liking - so I suspected caster could have been wrong (btw - I am missing where do you adjust for caster if it is adjustable at all?)

[Legacy777]

Thank you guys for sharing your opinion - I really appreciate it

 

From what I've read/seen so far (DS-6 in MSA5T0105A28297, and DS-18 -- DS-21 in MSA5T0105A28299), I would need to bring Housing/Bearing/Hub assembly really (first hub is pressed out on the outer side, then bearing is "removed" from the inner side of the housing). Correct me if I am wrong?

 

Good that I've not rushed into wheel alignment as soon as I got this "new" car

 

You're correct.