yarikoptic

The patient is stable... although not breathing yet camshaft measurements (from ECU) were strange, like there was a short somewhere at first but then cleared (could it get stuck?). More details in https://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthread.php?p=45358322&posted=1#post45358322 today I will place camshaft sensor back, engage fuel pump and give it another try. then will check with oscilloscope where the patient has any "pulse"

Thanks! I dared to think about the timing chain -- after all it is a chain! and it drove "fine" day before, and according to wify it first started "fine". But indeed with current cool downs at night, and prior overheating, may be it indeed gave up -- will check where the heck it is in this beast and either it is possible to pick at it. Overheating -- yeah, didn't expect anything good to happen from that. but replace the hose, filled up with coolant and it worked just fine for 3 months, did not notice any overheating etc but indeed some systems could have been compromised by then.

My wife told me today that "car does not drive, smoke is coming from above the left rear wheel", "yesterday it drove just fine", ... so I ended up enjoying her company at my work office. Came home, tried to start -- I thought first initial ones were almost like cranking, after a few I could smell some gas (I think not exhaust) smell, from the tail pipe there was a light white smoke slowly raising up/out. Did few gentle taps on the starter (in the back of the engine, nearby the AT dip stick)... no change. Wify on my question said that "it started" in the morning, but I wouldn't be too positive about that - although since she says that smoke was coming from the back, might as well has happened but then "died". Here is a video with sound from an attempt now: I checked on OBD-II - seems to be no codes. Almost never had to deal with ignition (besides changing spark plugs etc), primarily only mechanics, so not sure how to approach the problem: Is it a starter? not quite sure if that is the whole picture if it indeed did start in the morning (note: night/morning outide temperature was about 41F, day > 70F) Could engine just seize may be? (unlikely I guess, but who knows given that 3 months back wify managed to drive it around for probably 10 minutes while coolant all was boiling out (hose ripped open) and car kept dying). edit 1: FWIW my wify stated that : car did start this morning, but refused to go backward (need to get back first, sightly up the hill) in previous days she felt some gas (or exhaust, she isn't sure) smell when starting So it is indeed probably not just a starter :-/ Not yet quite sure on how to diagnoze the beast - any ideas are welcome!

apparently I've forgotten to follow up with the resolution in my case -- indeed was MAF sensor -- replaced it and problem was gone, car was sold a year after or smth like that ;-)

thanks but nevermind 2001-2002, should match engine size (i.e. 2.5L is not interchangable with 3.0L). 2003-2004 seems to be interchangable -- that is what I've discovered. Got myself used one from 3.0L one for 2001 (from 2002 car) for 69$+15$shipping off ebay. Local junk yard wanted 200$ ufff

Hi Schoobywagon, did I read it right, that for 2001 subi they should be interchangable (i.e. 2.5 and 3.0L ones) although they have different subaru part #s?

I bet you will pull out just as much as you already saw it going out... unfortunately studs (afaik) cannot be pulled out without taking those bearings out... ie without "unscrewing" those covers on top of them, which you should not do since it would break differential alignment which would be the beast to get back into proper position... so I would recommend not doing what you have planed, but rather trying my 'solution' (pump the boots with air so they press the CFJ (and studs) inside the differential, hence acomplishing the job of those o-rings on the ends of the studs inside differential) The reason for all this mess, I guess, is weak 'o-rings' which sit at the end of the studs inside the differential, which should forbid studs from jumping out of the differential (few mm freeplay seems to be within the norms, but 1/2 in is way too much, means that those o-rings either already fell down into differential already, or just too weak and don't forbid them been "pressed" into the bearing when the stud is pulled out.

Damn me, I has been planing to write up a proper "solution description", or actually "workaround" which I came up with... in just few words for now: I took old CVs, where I needed to change one internal boot, and then I "clamped" the boots in the position when the axle is the longest, so now boots are pretty much "pumped with the air" whenever you assemble CVs back into the vehicle. That causes inner SFJ to be "pressed into" the differential, so there is no easy freeplay of the studs. That almost completely eliminated my 20mph vibration issue and it goes along with another post somewhere else when the guy bought replacement CVs and they were "shorter" because boots were clamped (I speculated) in the "shortest CV" position, ie whenever turnion is deep within SFJ. I have driven the car with "pumped up boots" for approx 6kmiles by now. Boots didn't blow up, and vibration is close to none (ie someone who doesn't know would not detect it at all) Hope this would helps someone

Hi all, I am sorry that I reincarnating my elderly questions: I had reported before about strange vibration (speed dependent at 20mph): prev thread. So last time I just gave up and drove through another year... it survived but driving became less and less enjoyable. As the result (I think) I also got now left inner steering tie-rod bad, and whole suspension "doesn't feel right"... Also it trembles at accelerations on high speeds (80mph), which I guess could also be due to weak tie-rod since I feel it also in stearing wheel, but not only there... I've tried to pry all the mounts/bushings to see if anything loose, so I would replace them if needed while changing tie-rod, but I have no clue how should it feel, so again -- no major result. Thus I wonder if anyone could recommend any sensible mechanic in central/nothern Jersey (I am at Passaic/Clifton now), who could 'smell' my car a bit? may be he could even get some idea on what is my 20mph vibration. thanks everyone in advance!

nope. I reported on it earlier , then gave up on it, but I think I should come back to 'fixing' it... it is either front differential, or its studs or smth in suspention. I just need a reliable tech to look at it... but let me stop here to don't hijack the thread

Correct... since 1998 or so it is recommended but not required

since it is H6 probably (2001 OB does have) it has external AT fluid filter which you might like to replace if you decide to change/refresh AT fluids. (yeah, people say that there is no need to replace it but since it is external, there could be a reason why it is made such... also I found it quite dirty in mine at 105k miles) 60k miles (or was it each 30?) iirc is recommended change interval of sparks and on H6 their change is fun -- so you can dedicate a few hours for that (unless you are going to raise the engine anyways which would make things much easier) and I hope it doesn't have that weird vibration problem (at 20mph) which I am still fighting ;-)

I hope that aftermarket one I will get at AdvancedAuto is good enough... no time to wait for OEM to arrive nope -- as I said I had to add most of the coolant in excess of full from the extension tank -- so there was quite a bit of air there.

Did radiator flush, changed thermostat and lower hose. I retighted one of the upper houses with regular aftermarket clamp (with a screw which threads on clamp itself... you know I think which one). Everything seemed to be ok, ie no overhitting but no coolant from extension tank is sucked into the radiator. instead after car get cold overnight I have extension tank almost filled up to the cup, and radiator and hoses full of air (I do not hear any suction when I am opening pressure cap). At first I thought that there is a hole in the hose which goes from the cap to extension tank. but I took mityvac and could suck in coolant and didn't see bubbling. when I sucked out coolant from extension tank I could fill up through the radiator cap but there was more than 'MAX' left in extension -- I emptied pockets in the upper pipes but no guarantee that some are not in the engine block already. I doubt that the hole is in radiator hoses since otherwise they would leak -- I would loose more of coolant I guess... so is that simply a radiator pressure cap is bad somehow? but it seemed to work fine before my 'flush'... what else to look for?

Ok - yesterday I have done that -- tightened by 1 more notch on each side. Besides that I did other maintnance (change AT filter, adding AT additives, replacing steering boots, replacing left CV with the original one which was there). Now vibration has decreased significantly. Considering now smoother shifting AT, I would say, a person who does not know about vibration might not feel it at all (unless driving up the steep hill at 20mph for a bit). So, it seems to be differential. it is kinda bad that I've done so many things at once yesterday, but since before I've already pinned it down to differential, it seems to be it after all. So, why does it happen? I guess either weaken bearing or deteriorated O-ring which presses the outer race of the bearing. I did not have enough time yesterday (and was hesitant on weather should I) to completely remove one of the retainers and have a look at the differential bearing. May be some time I will do that, but now problem seems to be so less sever that I think I can live with it. Though I have a question now is it possible to press out inner race of differential bearing through the "opening" from the differential retainer? I am asking because probably to properly heal the differential I should have changed bearings + o-rings, but from what I've read inner race seems to be pressed onto the diff assembly so I have little change to take it off (put a new one) without actually taking differential assembly out (ie taking whole AT out of the car)

Solving my vibration problem I called one mech, highly recommended by other usmb members. When I said that AT is not performing great (late shift, rought shift, rapid shifts back and forth under load) he asked if I did flush - I said yes (stealership coupon); he asked if I replaced the AT filter -- I said they didn't and I haven't done that yet. So he concluded: change AT filter, no flush is necessary since fluid is quite new (if stealership at least replaced the fluid) and add half-pint of seafoam tranny additive and lucas tranny friction modifier. Today I went below, found damn AT filter (on 3.0L it is not on transmission, but upfront of the left mud catcher with 2 hoses leading back to AT), and that beast didn't want to get off (I've lost the head which could have fit) -- well, big screwdriver helped me out. What I saw didn't please my eye at all: dirt-browny (like a very rusty water) was comming out, sorry I didn't take a picture. AT fluid on outer (inner) exit from filter looked fine though -- seems to be transparent redish AT, as it should. So, though filter was 'working' and filtering (hopefully) AT, it had lots of crap accumulated in it at those 100kmiles car has. So, whenever flushing/changing oil in AT, and having some subi (I believe since 2000) which has screw-on type of AT filter -- change that one as well. Today it was already too late whenever I got car back together (had to do other things as well) -- so tomorrow morning additive and test-fun part ;-)

give up and drive vibrating car or give up and go to mechanic? ;-) I went to 2 mechanics by now. 1 more is scheduled on 14th (seems like a very subarish mechanic) but he is 100 miles away. So if I solve the issue before -- it would save me time/money might be not all of them... yeap ;-) well -- if I am 100% sure that it is differential, and transmission runs smoother after upcoming AT filter-change/seafoam/friction_modifier maintnance (as good sub mech suggested) -- then indeed it might be worth bothering leaving old transmission and replacing just a diff. But otherwise, I would think that it would be less hassle to swap whole AT.

If I am not mistaken on what we are talking about -- my car (2001 outback) has those: http://www.google.com/search?q=ventshade%2094922 as you see -- there is plenty of links -- may be there would be some models which would fit your car better

Hi Everybody once again Last time I've hidden 1 detail for some reason -- besides changing CVs I've changed differential fluid... Last weekend I changed diff fluid again to Lucas's 80W-90 gear + oil stabilizer in proportions close to 50/50. In my opinion (I can hardly be objective now) it did change things -- if last time I said that vibration got stronger -- I meant to say 'sharper'. Now, besides much lower gear noise at high speeds, I think it became less pronounced and softer. And at lower speeds I think it needs now a bit more torture to get wild. So it seems to be the proof that the reason of vibration is in the differential. I am going to look at it and check that there are no wear signs on outer races of the bearings (which I think I should be able to take out whenever I take the retainer off). Also look at inner race but since I believe it is pressed on I will not be able to really closely inspect it pull studs (axle shufts) out and see if there any marks on them replace circlips at the other end of studs since I have them already (btw now whenever I am testing how well studs are sitted I feel two stages while pulling out from most inner position -- like at first (after 2-3mm circlips hit the gear and then they proceed a bit further (2-3mm I guess too) before really stopping. May be they got week within time I already asked "Is central clutch on AT engaged when it is in N?" in another thread http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?p=637589 -- just to see if I can reset backlash if something goes wrong along the way or if I try something from the following: even if bearings do not have visible abnormalities, I guess they still can be undertightened thus allowing slight vibration/tilting of the axle shufts occur. That would be greatly amplified by CV shafts which sit tight on the axle shufts -- and that would cause the vibration I am trying to pin down. So my idea is to 'tighten' retainers on both sides by 1 notch more. That should not change the backlash since from both sides I will provide the same amount of displacement -- is that a right logic? How many degrees should 1 front wheel have a freeplay between going forward/backward if the other wheel is locked and car is in P (so drive pinion supposed to be still too)? though this is composed by at least 2 backlashes (of bevel/gear and crown gear/drive pinion) -- but I guess it should also give idea on the health of the differential. Thanks everyone for opinions in advance

I guess that the answer is "NO", but I wanted to make sure before I raise the car to test myself. The reason is: it seems that my http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=72752 problem with vibration on acceleration boiled down to differential in one way or another. So I want to check if the differential bearings have any signs of abnormal wear and also to replace those silly circlips which hold the axle stubs. Also there might be some "signs" on the stubs themselves (if that are them going back and forth thus initiating the vibration) From what I've read it seems that I should be able to accomplish the mission without ruining differential -- I should do 1 side at a time (so I don't drop the whole differential "heart" in the closed space of the differential body), should mark retainer position before removing the lock. BUT if I screw things up, I guess the best would be to realign the crown gear of the differential to the drive pinion correctly and for that I need to have an ability to turn the pinion. The easiest I thought would be if central clutch is engaged when it is in N and car is raised -- just to turn propellershaft with rear wheels -- but if central clutch is not engaged when car is not 'on' -- I wonder if there is any other way to rotate the pinion (besides starting the car and placing it in gear ;-)). Or may be there is another way to set backlash between the crown and the pinion besides finding the "zero state" when pinion can't be turned?

Does he have an email by any chance? it is somewhat cumbersome to provide over the phone 12 part numbers with total cost less than 50$ ;-)

Just if anyone knows: is the website now running by other dealership? they seems to have also prices below 'listed' but toll free number is different from older Jason's. I am just curious if I should go forward and order from them or look elsewhere ;-)

I was serious, by smiling ;-) I will do vacuum reading tomorrow to verify what I saw. Also remote temperature sensor is on its way so soon I will be able to make sure that the temperatures are right without burning my fingers.

;-) That readings were done in Bushkill, PA (Pocono mnts ;-))