yarikoptic

well -- what part? did you try to start from google.com? also there was a thread recently suggesting https://www.1stsubaruparts.com for OEM parts

And what is strange: the date of the recall is 1997 in the list of recalls, there are 2 more which were completed in 2001 [url="http://my.subaru.com/my/recall/recallDetail.jsp?msgID=WWE88"]WWE88[/url] [url="http://my.subaru.com/my/servicehistory/details.jsp?id=2535661"]Completed - 10/26/01[/url] 1995 to 1999 Legacy and Outback Front Spring Guard [url="http://my.subaru.com/my/recall/recallDetail.jsp?msgID=WXD61"]WXD61[/url] [b]Open[/b] Crankshaft/Camshaft Sensors [img=http://my.subaru.com/themes/winter/common/images/spacer.gif] [img=http://my.subaru.com/themes/winter/common/images/spacer.gif] [url="http://my.subaru.com/my/recall/recallDetail.jsp?msgID=WXO72"]WXO72[/url] [url="http://my.subaru.com/my/servicehistory/details.jsp?id=2535661"]Completed - 10/26/01[/url] Vehicle Tow Hook Removal Why the heck they didn't complete this one? probably nobody knows besides a dealership :-)

There is a recall for my car: WXD61 Crankshaft/Camshaft Sensors It seems to be fine for its 150K, is there sense to get to dealership to change them or there might be some hidden stones I should be aware of? As I understand and as a note says, dealership mustn't charge me for performing change of the sensors... any comments? Thanx in advance

that is the drawback of ultimate subaru forum - it doesn't have explicit item anywhere in profile such as "Your Car", so I placed my car in interest and hobby I believe but no one looks in there... I should substitute my city with my car I think :-) That is what I did - just left it alone, but because I didn't do any kind of power flush but just drained ATF, I'm thinking about 2nd round on ATF change, so may be that time I will get the pan down. I'm not sure if flush will remove deposits from the internal filter... sure I can hope that when durt escapes it, it gets trapped in the external one.

damn damn damn - why I haven't thought about that on my own! That is a good idea - I will grab a set of such drills "for future references" any way. yeap - I'm not sure if they will survive flat bladed screwdriver - that is the thing :-/ drill sounds like the best idea Well... the ones which are on the exhaust pipe cover, and were originally ~4-5mm in diameter now look like nails :-\

Dear All, I hope you give me a couple of hints on how to deal with rusty bolts. I was changing ATF recently and thought to change filter as well but the excess of rust on a side of ATF pan made me postpone that event. Now I have unused filter and still want to do the change of the filter. The problem is that on one side 5 or so bolts are very rusted, phillips screwdriver breaks its socket easily in them and designed wrench wouldn't work because they are almost oval now. So WD-40 + wrench most probably doesn't work... So is there anything I could do or the only thing I can do is to drill them out? Thanx in advance

I'm interested in keyless entry + remote start but alarm wouldn't hurt if it would cost up to 20$ more :-) I've searched the forum but couldn't find an answer to my question: is CRIMESTOPPERs any good? They are sold for really cheap on ebay so I thought why the heck not to improve my Legacy L 95 which seems to do not have any remote features but has a central lock If they are ok, then which model because there seems to be quite a few of them. Does any one has any experience? or I should get something else (more expensive)? Thank you in advance for ideas

I've found some on partsamerica.com for about 23$ set, including the pad clips I'm suspecting in the first place... now I just need to decide if I have that money to spend :-) well - most of the time it is analogous to the different brands of cars -- they differ in price a lot but they do their function - drive - better or worse but they have to comply with STANDARDs and REQUIREMENTs, otherwise they wouldn't be on the market as I've understand ceramic is more gentle with rotors but usually more dusty... I don't care about the dust must :-)

Yeap - that is what I did - I always put some compound but couldn't find shims in autozone etc for my car but after a while it stops help It is different though: it makes noise not once, but on every revolution. I doubt that gravity force make pads go back down to get shifted again with next revoltution.... That is why I thought about part 1 which under alternating load from the pad due to slightly bent rotor can shift and make such nasty sound Here it is as bad :-/ but the thing is that part 4 doesnt get rusted if I'm not wrong, so performance deteoration due to rust has mostly to be reflected on the brake rotor quality Sorry -- my bad English showed up -- the question was: why can't I buy cheap brake rotors? :-) And I've heard some words of wisdom that cheap rotor from autozone + ceramic pads would work nicely if installed properly. so probably I will just go with autozone VALUCRAFT which is believed to be the same as their DURALAST with longer warranty Now the question is just about which pads to use and there is lot of discussion was done and many people say that PBR are nice but I've found [/url]http://www.jimrothe.com/volvo/pbr_brake_pads.html and now I'm wondering...

Well - it is all my fault at the end -- greedy me... The story is, about 8 month ago I started feeling that brake disks are bended -- pulsation during braking etc... Friend of mine helped me to get 2 used front ones for free, so I've got new pads from pep boys (another mistake of me? :-)) and we've substituted old disks with "new" ones. Driving experience became much better but seem to degrade slowly -- pulsation was comming back... well - not long ago I've got another two rear disks from newer impresa which seem to be thiner a bit but seems to be fine - hopefully caliper goes far enough ;-) So I've installed them, now it seems to have no pulsation at all but the problem which started to appear somewhere in summer (ie a month after I changed front disks): when braking and almost when stopped, ie speed is 2-3 mph and foot is already releasing brake pedal a bit to don't stop too rapidly, there are 2 things 1. periodic whistling, so it means that some of the disks are not exactly straight but what is worse 2. there is a sound which is hard to describe: probably it would be similar to 'pads jumping in their craddles', ie it is also periodic, so at every spin like smbd hits the empty can, or metal pad drops back to metal base... Hard to describe This sounds seems to be absent when driving on cold "pads" -- ie just started driving and didn't brake too much yet I can't figure out what can be the source of the noise... For the experiment I've changed one of the pads -front right, which made most of the noise, with old one I had, which is still fine, at least it didn't make such sound before... First I thought that noise is gone, but it came back... What can it be? Another question for poor non-English native speaker. What each numbered part means? on this picture (from impreza but seems to be close enough). I thought that may be part 1 is kinda related to the clicking sound? because when I took old pads out, these things were quite loose seems to me. On autozone I can see things like breake pad/show, also I remember about shims etc... I just don't want to mix up things ;-) Another question: if changing disks, should I pay attn to smth or can go with the cheapest ones I can find (ebay comes to mind)? :-) Thank you in advance

Legacy777: Thank you once again. Then I'm probably fine, if not taking into account the fact: the beast died 3 times today while idling... there were no sporadic rpm changes, which I think should accompany a problem with broken vacuum pipes which I could bend a bit while accessing AT and differential... After a 3rd death, when I started it, AT OIL TEMP light not only lighted up but blinked a couple of times - around 6-8 but seems it wasn't blinking 16 times which seems to be a warning for "THERE IS SMTH WRONG WITH AT - PLEASE READ OUT THE CODE". I will try to read out the codes tomorrow following the thread after the sun comes on and I can find necessary terminal under the steering wheel But can really AT make engine shut down during idling or I should really look for bad hoses/wires?

Thank you for replying. Legacy777, do you think that bubbles could form due to underfilling? or it is specific only for overfilling? In other words -- if I was low on oil, could AT mix it so much with air that foam lifted to the "normal" level giving me measures on the dip stick? Sure, the question is AT fluid specific and I don't remember what I filled it with - it was some synthetic blend of Penzoil ATF I believe

Dear Subaruers. Legacy L, AT, 1995 I had a differential binding problem, so I've changed all tires so to make sure that all of them are equal, did a bit of rear-8-figure-driving and changed AT oil. I thought to change AT filter but I couldn't take the pan off because of the excessive rust -- didn't want to bother this time. The problem/questions are: what is the amount of AT oil usually gets dumped when no filter gets changed (damn me - I couldn't measure -- trusted too much to the manual). Manual says 4 Qt, Friends says 6 Qt. I added first 3 Qt, started - couldn't get stable level, added another 1 Qt, oil seems to appear but too many bubbles, added another 1 Qt, seems to be much better but few bubbles Rear -> Drive -> Neutrual -> 2 minutes, it is hard to get stable level but it seems to be on Low Hot when engine is hot how dangerous to overfill? all official sources say that overfilling is very bad, friend says that not really appearance of bubbles mostly due to over or under fill?? how bad to mix different brends of AT fluid? Thank you in advance for clarifying the questions for me.