yarikoptic

Hi All. Having not yet gathered enough motivation to fix a "new" car of mine, I need first to get elderly one on road. It is 95 Legacy L, AT, AWD Since mostly I am driving a new one now, elderly one was staying outside for 5-6 days without running. Day came that I had to repark it to the other side, it was quite cold 31-32 F (-1 C), I've started it up, and it cranked up really hard but started eventually, I let it run for no more than a minute (don't hit me hard), I shift the "gear" to "D" (it was quite hard to move the lever), drove it to another side of the road, and when I parked (shift the lever back to park)... then rpms went ballistic to slightly more than 2k - for 2-3 seconds, then CEL came on, and I simply stopped it. This evening (2 days after and in similar weather + light snow) I came out, tried to start it and failed (there is plenty of juice in accumulator I believe, starter didn't even crank, some relays clunked), read the code (P0505 Idle Air Control System), reset the code, pulled the cables a bit (I remember I had the same no start due to rust in power connector from accumulator), tried to start many times with no luck... The question: can that P0505 be relevant for no start? I just really doubt it but I would appreciate your output Hayness says that 1 of possible causes is that "automatic transaxle not completely engaged in Park" which I would admit to be possible may be somehow due to how heavy was to move the shift lever. Does your elderly AT shift easily in cold weather after being outside for few days? I mentioned that awhile that in cold it is hard to switch and that it gets back to normal after car gets driven/warmed-up. Or is it just that my cable is probably torn and/or got dirty inside and thus got stuck (and may be didn't release the gear completely into Park). Visually it seems to be in Park. I guess I would have to get underneath it to see if the cable didn't get stuck.... Where can I order somewhat warmer weather for tomorrow - it seems to be freezing... BTW, now that I don't remember, is lever supposed to switch even if I didn't succeed to start but if the key is in On position? (so it could be pushed... I would need to push it to the other side unless I fix it :-\)

From my experience, I just know, that whenever I was changing CVs I had to take top two housing bolts off to release it (I didn't succeeed to pray out housing from the ball joint :-\) - so I just marked down the orientation and I might say that was good enough -- it seems that no bad wearing pattern on the tires since then, so I deduce that camber didn't change much ;-) Also if you don't drive offroad too much then probably toe-in should not change unless tie-rods got changed (which I've done on my previous nissan and then did 'alignment' using a loong string and a ruller ;-)) I wanted to do alignment though since I felt that it doesn't stay straight up to my liking - so I suspected caster could have been wrong (btw - I am missing where do you adjust for caster if it is adjustable at all?)

What are the other well defined signs of problematic ball join which could have help me to rule out that possibility?

Thank you guys for sharing your opinion - I really appreciate it From what I've read/seen so far (DS-6 in MSA5T0105A28297, and DS-18 -- DS-21 in MSA5T0105A28299), I would need to bring Housing/Bearing/Hub assembly really (first hub is pressed out on the outer side, then bearing is "removed" from the inner side of the housing). Correct me if I am wrong? Good that I've not rushed into wheel alignment as soon as I got this "new" car

so - did you go to the shop? what was the cause?

Edited: asked about 2001 LL Bean (6cyl 3L engine) Previousely I've reported my concern about moaning sounds coming out from front http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=68162 but since I've decided for myself that it is simply tires which were disbalanced for a while, I slept tight 2 days ago, while I was taking a bit "involved" turn (to the right) at speed slightly higher than 50mph, I've mentioned not a pleasant sound coming from front left wheel -- it is not a tire sound: it is more of metal kind, the pitch of it not high not low and depends on the speed, volume seems to depend on speed and curvature of the turn, it seems to propagate through the car body well, ie that it comes from the part which is more or less rigidly assembled to the car I could not reproduce it yet on left turns It persists: at every extended and relatively curved turn to the right at high speeds (50-90 mph) I get the sound :-/ So, my suspicion is unfortunate: front wheel bearing... Or something else could produce it? I haven't yet tried wheel on freeplay -- didn't have a chance to raise the vehicle. And I am not sure if that would be already that prominent to feel it Heh heh. I had a problem with rear bearing in previous legacy - last time it was changed, friend mechanic could not take it off the axle without cutting it apart with electric welder. That is why the question follows: since there is no big noise at regular driving, I hope that it doesn't heat, so I hope it wasn't deformed to stuck completely with the hub. Did anyone succeed to DIY front wheel bearing change? well - I could take the hub to some close by shop and ask to press it out, press a new one in, I guess.. as I got from subaru service manual the hub is pressed into bearing but I can't get from the diagram if the bearing is also pressed into axle housing? (which would not allow me to simply take the hub to the shop) -- I am just missing whole assembly picture in my mind Anyone could recommend reliable/nottooexpensive mechanic in central NJ area? Thanks everyone in advance

you were 200% right - wasn't worth even trying to do anything -- at the end I got 5$ discount of the year premium... no comments

Grr... just called a dealership where I went for recalls, although guys seems to be nice, the end-point one in parts department blurbed smth that he can't tell anything without seeing the car... although those are damn factory installed ones -- grr.... not sure if there is sense in calling any other one...

Great! So I was right ;-) although I think according to user manual 2b might be an option - so called "Passive Arming". Now the question is what the heck is the model of the system we have in 2001 outbacks. I remember from cars101 that it is Alpine but no idea on the model. I am not sure if I want to take the dash out to see what is written on the security module which seems to be located near the radio/tape any idea on the model?

I am just trying to fill out the form for my insurance http://njm.com/pdf/A-735w.pdf for 2001 LL Bean I have no details on the system ;(, but my guess would be something like 1 ab(or c?) - that is actually the question 2 a 3-7 no 8 ... not sure - never checked... do we have? 9 no (unless I guess I leave my cell phone in I guess)

Indeed they should not but ... I've sent an inquiry as directed on http://www.speedbleeder.com/automobile_applications.htm Lets see how fast they reply ;-) Do you know what chains sell them? I've heard that Pep boys have some other - Motormite I think

Did they have them for the model of your subi? I don't see any listing for my 01 LLBean :-/ Where else should I look for some quality speed bleeders? I am going up to the mountain, so hopefully the snow will be there so I could flush brakes+ABS properly But I would need to rush to get those speed bleeders to don't use m-vac since I don't have any vac greese to use

"you've got mail" or at least was supposed to...?

dont' worry be happy

seems to be missing 1 letter or smth is wrong with the vin you entered

Brakes seemed to be fine as to me - I opened bleeders, pressed pistons and fluid rushed out. It seems to be the same resistance from all pistons. What I have mentioned though is that on the right (I didn't look at the left and then placed a wheel back on) - pads have slightly more than a 1mm difference in thickness: beginning of the pad (side which meets rotating rotor first) is worn slightly more than 1mm more than the "ending" of the pad. I am not sure if that normal, but I guess that it is. If it is not, it would mean that 1 piston (closer to the end of the pad) is worse, and doesn't press the pad as good as the other one For now I just think that it is tires issue (although they were rotated/balanced and do not have any weird worn pattern), turn a bit of music to not hear any sounds ;-)

Question2: if that is indeed a dead piston, I bet there would be little sense trying to bring it back to life, but rather replace whole caliper. The question is really -- any advice on aftermarket rebuilts - any success stories? :-) since new OEM from 1stsubaru runs ~236$ shipped

Question: to check for a sticky piston the procedure should be * loose the bleeder, so I don't need to push all the brake fluid up to the master cylinder. I think I better wear a smaller rubber hose on it, apply some brakes to bleed it just a bit so no air has chance to get into * try to push the piston with hands and see if it moves and bleeder bleeds more. * I compare the ease with which all pistons move on both front brakes Any further recommendations?

nope -- I didn't. seller said that he replaced pads a hundred mile ago or so... I hoped that if smth around pads was wrong, mechanic would tell him... but that was a dealer so... Good call - I will check them first thing... For now it seems that rotor is not warped yet - no pusing - so I might be in time if it is indeed a sticky piston. Shouldn't sound change though whenever I brake - shouldn't it go away since I am braking and pads gets pressed on rotors (unless it is a really sticky piston and they don't move ;-/ )

Another "guess what" question. I've got a new(ish) LL Bean 2001 with 90k miles. Originally it had much more noise from front and a bit shaking stearing wheel -- obvious unballanced wheels. Ok, took a coupon, and went to dealership to work on recalls and do tire balancing/rotation. After it was done ride became much more pleasant but the part of noise remains. LL Bean seems to have good noise isoltation which makes it just harder to localize. For me it sounds like from front and may be from left but I am to ask someone to seat nearby to say (my 2year old daughter wasn't able to give me an advice) Tires quite crappy on their own - firestone affinity lh30, but since they got balanced and rotated (I hope dealership rotated them... I didn't check if rotation was actually done) there is no more pulsing in the steering wheel. And it also doesn't sound like a bearing since it doesn't scale up with speed. It is quite audible even on slow speeds (10-20 mph). Whenever I had bearing (on the back though) sound raised up with speed. What else it could be? worn CV boot may be (I don't remember if I checked left side one...). any other ideas? Thank you in advance!!!

Thank you very much! Probably I will get them both - Chilton and preorder Hynes. I remember from my Nissan books that Chilton had better detailed schematic images of part assemblies instead of often confusing photos present in Hynes

Guys, who has Chilton's cooking book http://www.amazon.com/Subaru-Forester-2000-06-Chiltons-Manuals/dp/1563926237 Does it cover outbacks? and H6 outbacks? from the title it is not clear since Outback is not quite a Legacy since 2000 and there is no word about Imprezas although Forester has more in common with those than with Legacy...

Well, as I understand you are talking about recall on HG external leak, which is specific to 2.5L engines (2000-2003). I was reminded in another thread that it has nothing to do with H6 in any way.SOA has been "verifying my ownership" after I added a VIN to my account on mysubaru.com. Carfax lists 2 recalls Recall #WWM961 Rear suspension sub-frame corrosion Recall #WWQ011 Cruise cable clip I don't know which recalls were serviced... I am going to stop by at the dealership anyway - will use the coupon to get rotation/balancing done and need to get 1 lug nut I found missing today on front right wheel :-/ (for now placed 1.2$ one from advancedauto)

Just did OBDII monitoring... though not when on a highway but driving around a few blocks after a highway. The temperature I was monitoring is abbreviated as ECT I believe and it ran between 187F (when fan blow) till 200F (before they start blowing) . And the gauge arrow was in the middle as I reported. so I assume that is ok and I am indeed paranoid as my friend said after he looked at the residue and on the state of the coolant. Unfortunately we didn't run compression testing - it appears to be not as easy to get to the spark plugs on H6 as it was on my 1995 - we left it for the next weekend fun. We cleaned it around - lets see if I get more of that yellow crap within a week. Then I am going to flush the cooling system anyways - I doubt it was flushed any recent time. BTW - for compression testing, is it enough to take fuel pump fuse off or do I have to disconnect the pump really or unplug relay? I am asking because on 1995, after I disconnected the plug to fuel pump, it was enough of 1 start for 3 seconds to have engine stall and not come back on the next attempt to start. on this beast H6 (with the fuse taken out) it kept starting up for 0.5-2 seconds. I tried 10 times or more. It might be that ignition system has quite an independent from pump reservour for gas or smth - I am really missing proper manual for H6 or may be some basic knowledge...

Thank you very much... my hurt started to beat closer to normalAnd sorry for the bad picture... here you can get fresh ones http://www.onerussian.com/php/album.php?page=Photos/Cars/Subi2001/20061126COOL/ though damn me - you need to look at the page in mozilla or firefox (or probably opera) -IE screws it up... Here I will provide just few to don't abuse the forum full resolution images are available if you click on printer icon above image on my photo album page For some reason I thought that it would be better (more full color) without flash - so all the ones before wiping out are without flash... whenever the one at the end with flash is of much better quality :-/ The last ones are after I wiped it with paper towl - I will drive to my friend (10 mins away) who would help me watching the gauge to check compression on cylinders. Thank you once again for your input