One evening when leaving REI my car decided not to start when I turned the key. It had enough battery power and had been running fine earlier so I decided to push it, throw it in second, and bump start it. The thing fired up and I made it to my buddies where it started right up after I parked it. Now the car will not start at all...so if I need to drive it I have to make sure I'm parked on a hill or have some man power to push her.

 

I have replaced the coil, and starter, however still I just get a click when I turn the key. The starter doesn't crank and the engine won't turn over. My battery and alternator are fine because as soon as I bump start the car I can drive for hours. The only problem is when I shut her off it will not start up.

 

Soobcrazy and I checked his factory repair manual and couldn't find anything wrong with the car. I was told I have a "federal" model because I have no ECU (if that is of any help).

 

WHAT IS WRONG WITH MY CAR??? Do you guys have any ideas? Any troubleshooting tips? I would really appreciate any help.

 

Thanks.

try fuses..

Your ignition switch is failing. it's making some connection(hence the click) but won't carry the amp load that the starter solenoid requires. Very common for 80's soobs.

 

There are 3 ways to fix it.

 

1. Replace the switch. Expensive for a new one, used one is likely to fail sooner or later. Not what I would choose to do.

 

2. Wire up a relay. mount a relay and wire it up so the "start" position signals the relay, then the relay sends power to the starter solenoid. Works. But it still relies on the ignition switch carrying enough amps to activate relay. It's also more wiring and work than is nesscesary.

 

3. Run a fused 12 gauge wire directly from Battery or the large terminal on Starter that Batt. cable goes to. Run it inside to a pushbutton switch mounted wherever you like. Run another wire out of the switch back to the solenoid terminal on starter. If you use a piggy back spade you can reattach the original Sloenoid wire as well. Turn the key on, and if it doesn't start, just hit the button to activate the starter. Key must still be in the "on" position.

 

Method 3 is what I have done for 3 of my old soobs, and for my buddies toyota T100 as well.

 

Here is an old thread where both options are discussed at length. http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=71590&highlight=Click%2C+no+start And if you decide to do the relay option, it has a better description. I personally like the push button. And running the wire from the big term of starter and then back uses the shortest amount of wire. Just be sure to put a fuse at the begining of the wire.

EVERYONE seems to do options 3... I just replaced my switch with a used one.

Option 3 looks like it would be the coolest. PLUS I can say it's Nitrous! Scoobie Power! Thanks for the help. I'll keep you guys posted.

Before you start running new wires I recommend you check the following areas. First, clean the battery connections, even if they "look ok". Second, check the fusible links for a bad connection. Make sure they are making good contact. The next place to check is the connector in the steering column for the ignition switch. Look for a bad terminal connection in the connector. You may see signs of a burned contact. If so, repair the connection terminals. You may have to bypass the connector if the connector is really bad. I think your problem will be in one of those areas.

PLEASE even if you run the pushbutton switch, RELAY THE CIRCUIT because it is a FAR superior method, and it bypasses the risk of having high voltage like that flowing through your wire connections, and I would bet money you were planning on crimping them rather than soldering them.. (alot of us do) Relaying is the only way to do it right, even if you DO decide to use a pushbutton. *I* felt a pushbutton was a little tacky, but I am obviously outweighed on that point, so I'll shutup about THAT...

i have had that problem my self, and i replaced the +cabel from battery too starter. and the problem is solved. try it and your car will fire up like nothing has happend.

PLEASE even if you run the pushbutton switch, RELAY THE CIRCUIT because it is a FAR superior method, and it bypasses the risk of having high voltage like that flowing through your wire connections, and I would bet money you were planning on crimping them rather than soldering them.. (alot of us do) Relaying is the only way to do it right, even if you DO decide to use a pushbutton. *I* felt a pushbutton was a little tacky, but I am obviously outweighed on that point, so I'll shutup about THAT...

 

 

Why? there is no need for a relay. Auto manufactures know this, thats why 99% of cars do not use one. The stater solenoid IS a relay of sorts. It adds one more component in the chain, one more thing to go wrong. The solenoid only draws about 6-7 amps. I measured it. As long as you use a minimum 14g and better yet 12g wire there is no issue. Just as long as it is fused so if for some reason it shorts the fuse will blow.

the way I look at it, is I feel the heat that built up in the wiring to the ignition switch when mine went bad. if a soldered connection, with 12 gage wire, can build up that much resistance, *I* prefer to engineer around the point and make that current travel the shortest distance possible. I was almost tempted to pick the 12+ feed for my relay off of the positive battery cable terminal on the starter itself, to even FURTHER minimize wire length... but I didn't. I forget exactly where I picked my fused 12VDC from at the moment...

 

And not all manufacturers/models avoid using a starter relay.. usually just the econoboxes. Granted, econoboxes have smaller starters than hugeass V8s, but still.. If I am re engineering my car, I like to re engineer it better than the people who built it in the first place. After all, THEIR system failed on me (eventually...)

 

Plus, after several weeks (months on the calendar, I lost insurance sometime after my problem started and before I fixed it) of using a screwdriver to start it, I felt like going overboard.

I had same symptoms on my 86 gl, turned out to be starter solenoid (internal

contact's had worn paper thin from about 1/4" new).

Still first I'd try a KNOWN good battery!

Driving and starting, are a world apart for a battery!!!

Driving should run on alternator with a DEAD battery, Starting draws a couple hundred amps. battery has to be on the high side of OK to crank.

You could hold a voltmeter across the terminals while someone turns the key.

I it drops to 9 or less volts, it's shot.

Well, I had the battery and alternator checked, both were pumping out 14V and while trying to start my car again the guy at schucks noticed my battery terminal was arcing. $2 and a clean terminal later I had found my problem. It pisses me off when I struggle with an issue and make it much more complicated than it really is. Thanks for the help guys...now its time to take care of my decreasing oil pressure.

Dirty battery connections strike another one. Glad you found the problem and thanks for the feedback.