So I started out with the normal XT6 stuff...modded the knuckles to fit impreza struts...

 

However, the RF is making noise, and the LF has the wrong hub in it, so it makes terrible brake noises. So...thats gonna be about $300 or so to fix.

 

Then, I'll still have nearly zero brake pad options, small rotors, and I'll toast the bearings on track in 1~2 sessions.

 

So....today I ordered the 2005+ Legacy 5x100 Bolt in hub units. Both bearing/hub units, and the knuckles (subaru calls them axle housings). Total cost, $350 +/- some change.

 

I'll be using the 99~01 2.5 RS brakes so I can still use 15" wheels, and with the car weighing in at 2600 lbs in finnished form, it should be plenty of stopping power with 300 hp....brake pads will be the Carbotech XP10.

 

 

Now, for the Ebrake...I'm going to go source a complete rear knuckle/wheelbearing/brake assembly from a 99+ impreza and attempt to fit the internal drum ebrake to the rear. It really should not be that hard. If not...I'll just 240 it.

LF has the wrong hub in it, what does that mean?

good luck will!

i dont know...its offset outwards more than the otherside by about 3MM...and has no inner seal in it. The brake pad clips rub the rotor constantly...until I take them out.

this is why I went with Impreza stuff in the front end when I did the conversion in my RX;)

 

That and I found a low mile '96 Impreza wagon that had been smacked in the front right inbewteen the headlights:-p

i dont know...its offset outwards more than the otherside by about 3MM...and has no inner seal in it. The brake pad clips rub the rotor constantly...until I take them out.

?!??!? that's bizarre, that aint normal!

Well, I could not find any RS rotors, so its got full 02 WRX front brakes with Carbotech XP10 race pads (400*F to 1600*F operating temp)

 

 

 

 

Had to make a spacer for the axle/wheel bearing so the axle would actually hold the wheelbearing together like its supposed to.

I see that you solved the tie rod issue

I see that you solved the tie rod issue

 

Ya I was wondering that myself ,why is there weld marks on the tie rod end?

Well...I had to shorten them somehow.

why not just cut some off the tie rods and cut some more thread onto them rather than cut and weld the rod ends??

that still leaves me with a lack of thread...which was the first problem.

ea81 tie rod ends RHS:731320000 and LHS:731320010 cost me 50 bucks and change for both. Bolts up like subaru lego should, rack centering and toe adjustment restored.. no brainer..

 

Love the brakes Will some pics through the wheel please? :headbang:

 

Kaz

but are the ea81 tire rod ends the correct diameter for the knuckles where they bolt on? the EA82 ones are not.

what suspension is that? tein? and that lower strut cartridge thats purple. whats that?

rears are teins, fronts are D2.

rears are teins, fronts are D2.

so the purples are d2's? who are they? never heard of them? and this is a custom suspension setup?

its all off the shelf stuff.

 

http://www.d2racing.com/html/index.html

 

They are based in asia somewhere.

 

They are really no better than any other cheap asian coilover.

 

However, by FAR, the Megans are the BEST for the money. You can get a complete set for under $900 and they are SUPER awesome. If you want something better, be prepared to spend more than $5000 for a set.

I have ea81 ends bolted to my legacy knuckles compared the two tie rod ends, legacy and ea81, 2 each other they have the same taper, thread pitch etc the ea81s are shorter.. by just about an inch...

Interesting.

 

*runs off to order a set*