I am pulling this engine and am dilegently following the directions in a Haynes manual. It says to remove the 4 engine to transaxel bolts, 2 upper and 2 lower, which I did. However, there appears to be another bolt holding them together which is below the starter and next to the tranny cooler lines. This bolt is not mentioned in the manual, either for engine removal or transaxel removal.

My problem is that I can not get a socket or end wrench to properly grip this bolt even if I wanted to remove it.

The question is whether or not it needs to be removed and if so how?

 

Thanks for any info.

Dude, you need to pop open that rubber stoper on the top of the engine and remove the 4 bolts holding the flywheel to the torque converter (transmission).

Did that.

You removed the starter correct! If so and you still have a bolt left you will need to use a swivel head with your socket. Can you take a pic of your problem. Is it seperating from the transmission at all?

No, I did not remove the starter. The manual did not say to. Do you know the bolt to which I speak.

Remove the starter, its one bolt. That bolt is long and connects into the transmission.

I am not removing the transmission or transaxel, just the motor. Do I need to remove the starter to pull the engine?

Yes you need to remove the starter, the bolt connects the engine to the transmission bell housing.

I am on yahoo instant messenger, msmithmmx.

Ok, I'll remove the starter. However, the bolt that I am refering to appears to have nothing to do with the starter.

There are a total of 8 fasteners connecting the engine to the tranny in a '99 Outback. The factory shop manual states that there are 4 nuts on the lower part, and 4 bolts on the upper. I seem to remember that it was 2 nuts and 6 bolts on mine, but I could be wrong. It's dark outside, otherwise I'd go look.

 

The starter must come off - one of the starter bolts also connects the engine and tranny.

 

I found a 3/8 drive flex handle very useful in removing some of those fasteners. A swivel let the the socket slip too easily.

 

There are also two steel pins that align the engine and tranny. They are a pretty tight fit and corrosion will form between the aluminum castings and steel pins. You may need to use some persuaion to separate the two. The pins should stay with the engine, but no big deal if they don't.

I guess am going to have to clean my glasses or else we are talking about different animals. This is a '99 Outback Legacy 4WD automatic tranny EJ25 DOHC.

Tomorrow I'll try to post some pics and hopefully clear this up. :-\

OK, my bad. The manual does say to remove the starter. Therfore, I do need new glasses and to read more carefully. Although I read it six times. Still I cannot get a socket or wrench to fit properly on that lower bolt. I'll try again tommorow with renewed energy and determination. Which means I will probably break something.

I guess am going to have to clean my glasses or else we are talking about different animals. This is a '99 Outback Legacy 4WD automatic tranny EJ25 DOHC.

Tomorrow I'll try to post some pics and hopefully clear this up. :-\

 

Same animal - I have the same car. If the Haynes manual says there are only 4 fasteners, it is wrong. I'd copy/paste some parts of the Subaru Factory Service Manual, but the PDF file is copy protected somehow and it won't let me do it.

 

I remember a couple of the fasteners where a pain to reach. The flex handle I mentioned earlier (bought it at Sears) did the trick on one of them, one of the lower ones on the drivers side that was kind of blocked by the inner CV joint. I also used a 6 point socket to avoid rounding the nuts and bolts.

 

Gook luck, I'm sure you can do this after some rest! A fresh start and some thought is always helpful.

Thanks for the encouragement. The manual says to remove 4 bolts, but after it tells you to remove the starter (which is where my brain fade came into play).

 

I'll let all know how it goes, or not.

99 and later Subaru cars have 8 fasteners holding the engine to the transmission on their bellhousings.

I did a screen capture from the FSM showing where the fasteners are. I photoshopped it a bit to add some arrows and show where the starter is. View is from the rear of the engine.

 

I uploaded it to my photo album.

 

Here's a link, as I have no clue how to show an image in-line on this board.

 

http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/photos/showphoto.php?photo=15494&cat=500&ppuser=4193

This is where Subaru has done another change while on the outside all looks the same.

 

Starting with the 1999 production year, ALL EJ motors have the phase-2 block. Doesn't matter if it's a SOHC or DOHC. So for it's last year in the Outback, the 1999 DOHC 2.5L has a different block than the previous years.

 

Your Hayes manual does not take this into account. This is another reason, after being burned by Hayes/Chiltons in the 70's, I have since put the cash out for the FSM.

 

Here's a clip from the Tech Service Manual on the EJ motor:

 

 

The engines for the 1999 Subaru line will be designated

phase 1 and phase 2. 2.5 liter engines equipped on the

Legacy will be phase 1 design while the Impreza and

Forester will utilize phase 2 design 2.5 liter engines.

The 2.5 liter phase 2 engines are SOHC engine with a newly

designed cylinder head. The (phase 1) 2.5 liter engine uses

the same cylinder head configuration that it has used on

prior year models with the crankcase and bell housing

sharing the same characteristics of the new phase 2

engines.

 

Common Changes in the 2.5 liter (phase 1 and 2 engines.)

 

The engine and the transmission are fastened with 6 bolts

 

and 2 studs.

The thrust bearing has been moved to the number 5 position.

 

Oil groove in the number 1 and 3 have been changed to

 

supply additional lubrication to the crank journal.

Thanks for that info and the pics. This makes me feel like I'm not quite the idiot I thought I was becoming.

So much for Haynes.

I believe the 99 has 8 mount bolts for the engine/transmission.

Ok, I located and removed the six bolts and two stud nuts, thanks to Ron917. The flex plate bolts have also been removed. I have raised the motor with an engine hoist and supported the transaxel with a floor jack.

 

The engine is not seperating from the transaxel housing. I don't know what to expect at this point. Do I prod, pry or just get a bigger hammer?

 

I need some tips.

Try some penetrating oil or pb blaster by the seam and knock it with a wooden/rubber mallot. Some on here have pry the cases apart, but I'm a little leary of that with aluminum casings.

If you are pulling the engine up and the transmission is raising up with it you still have something connected. Did you disconnect the engine mounts from the cross member? Are you sure you got every bolt that connects the fly wheel from the torque converter? Take a ruber mallet and give the seem between the engine and the transmission bell housing a god wack or two.

Sucess...A little WD-40, some rubber mallet, wiggling and prodding and she came loose.

 

Thanks to all....

Good job! Knew you could do it!