ron917

The builder of my rebuilt engine stated that clogged cam passages was the most likely cause of my camshaft seizure. They said that they see it often on these engines.

Here's the threads I mentioned earlier. They contain good info. http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=80226&highlight=axle+swap http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=75739&highlight=axle

This one? http://www.picoauto.com/tutorials/diagnosing-abs.html

Whatever you do, DO NOT push down on the wrench plus cheater pipe with all your weight. When it lets loose (or something breaks), you will smash your face on the car and break your nose. Personal experience talking here.

The nut is 32mm. I used a 3/16" pin punch, but there is probably a small range of sizes (inch and metric) that will work. There are several good threads on this board about axle replacement. I have them bookmarked on my home PC, I can post the links if no one does it before I get home this evening.

No way to adjust ignition timing, the computer does it. However, if the knock sensor is bad, the computer will grossly retard the timing. The car will have no power at all (feels like a plugged cat). Knock sensor is a common problem (they crack), but it will throw a code and set the CEL. It can be intermittent, but when it's acting up, the CEL should be lit.

It went 13,000 miles after the HG job. I was driving, heard some chirping, then a thud, and the engine just quit. I knew the sprocket broke because a chunk of it was sitting on the block. After getting towed home, I found I couldn't turn that camshaft with a wrench. I don't know exactly what happened. The oil level was fine, and only 2,000 miles on the oil and filter. There had been some occasional rod knock (I thought it was piston slap at the time) in the days leading up to the cam seizure. I ordered a rebuilt and sent the old engine back as a core without opening it.

I had a cam sprocket shatter on my '99 Outback. The camshaft had seized - same one, the passenger side intake. I really hope that didn't happen to your engine. Try turning that cam with a wrench, you'll know if it's seized.

Oh, man, that sucks! I feel bad for you, after all that hard work!

The issue of cheap rebuilt axles is not limited to Subaru. I was in an auto parts store one day, and a guy came in carrying two axles for a Honda of some sort. He got into a very heated discussion with the manager because it was the third time he was changing axles in 4 months, and this time he wanted new ones instead of the rebuilt crap he was getting.

I have a similar kit, not made by Motive, but some British company. It's basically a bottle with hoses that you pressurize with your spare tire. It came with an assortment of adapters that are nothing but brake reservoir caps with a hole in them. To use them, you move a hose barb thingy (it has a nut and rubber gaskets) from cap to cap. The instructions say that if no adapter fits, just buy a replacement cap for your car, drill a hole and you are all set. It worked well for my Volvos, but I never purchased spare caps for my Subarus. I need to do that someday, it would have prevented me from running the master cylinder dry last Saturday. The point is, you can make your own adapter. Just get a spare cap.

No, you're right, you can't get to the mount bracket bolts on the engine without lifting it a bit. In my case, I bolted one of the mounts on to the engine backwards when I swapped them on to the rebuilt engine. I didn't notice until I tried to lower the engine/trans combo after mating them. I had to raise the engine a few inches to unbolt and install the mount correctly. After that, the mounts studs dropped into the crossmeber slots with just a little bit of wiggling. If you didnt' remove the mounts from the engine, you won't have the problem that I had. There's a lot of wiggle room in the rear tranny mount. Like davebugs said, you probably have it shifted and need to shove it all back in place. I removed the pitching stopper rod (a.k.a. dogbone) before pulling the engine and left the tranny supported by a jack. That's what the FSM said to do, but I doubt it would make a difference. As long as it's out of the way now when you're trying to shift everything around.

If you had the engine mounts off, make sure you put them back on the right way. I know for a fact you can put them on the engine backwards, and the studs won't line up with the crossmember slots when you lower the engine. My biggest suggestion: get a helper who can watch and guide the engine as you try to swing the swing into place. My son helped me get the rebuilt engine into my '99 Outback (it's his car now). I couldn't have done it without his help. Once I got him involved, the engine and trans (auto) mated up in one shot. I also used a load balancer that allowed me to adjust the angle of the engine. That helped a lot. You might already have one, but didn't mention it, so I don't know.

My son's '99 Outback Wagon (formerly mine) has normal bolts with washers (at the head to capture the spring) instead of those shoulder bolts. That allows the springs to be snugged up real tight without disassembling to add washers. I bought the car used, so I assume it did not come from the factory that way.

$225 is a good deal! I sold a wreck to a scrapper for $200, and you got a usable car for just $25 more!

From what I understand, you need the special tool to remove/replace the shims with the engine in the car due to space issues. If the engine is out on a stand, there is plenty of room to do the job with scredrivers and other implements. I haven't done it on an EJ25D, so I don't know for sure. My previously owned Volvos and one VW had the same bucket and shim arrangement, but with the head right up there in the open, there was plenty of space to use screwdrivers, etc, to change out the shims.

When you squeeze the handle and then let go, it should spring all the way back to its rest position (handle toward front of car). When the mechanism gets rusty, it doesn't spring all the way back. If you push it to its normal rest position, then lock/unlock with the key or fob, it will probably allow you to open the hatch. Please try this before busting up the interior panel. It's a common problem, and the above is the workaround. Once open, spray some lube in there, and it will probably work again for a while.

You can do all maintenance work yourself, or pay any shop to do it. You are not required to use the dealer or OEM parts. There is a lot of info on this, Google "Moss-Magnuson Warranty Act". What you must do is keep records. Keep all receipts and make sure that the date and mileage are on them. I also keep a log with date, mileage and work done. Paying someone else to do an oil change doesn't save any time. I can do it in less time than it takes to drive somewhere to have it done. I can do it any time I want. I can choose better quality parts and materials. And I know it's done right and the quicky lube monkeys haven't screwed anything up (speaking from repeated bad experiences). I don't have to deal with pushy salesman trying to sell me parts and services I don't need. Besides, I like working on my cars.

It may never throw a code. Don't rely on codes alone. Not every problem will throw a code. Not every code points to the root cause of the problem . If your dealer mechanic claims "no code means no problem", find another mechanic. On the 1/2 tank issue: I'm not very familiar with what's in the tank of a Subaru, especially a Forester. But I've seen issues on other vehicles I've owned when the fuel drops below a certain level. On a VW, the in-tank fuel pump would seize when the fuel got low. The in-tank pumps are cooled by the fuel surrounding them. When the level dropped enough to expose the pump, it would get too hot and seize. When the problem first started, the pump didn't seize completely, but it slowed down enough to cause problems. On a Volvo, the tube leading from the fuel intake strainer on the bottom of the tank cracked. When the level got below the crack, it would suck air. So something like that could be a problem in your car. Also, I believe that the evaporation emissions checks run when the fuel is at a certain level. Maybe something to do with that?

You can buy simple code readers for like $40. Anyone doing DIY on cars '96 and newer needs one. They are a basic and necessary tool, just like a wrench.

This thread got me wondering how clicker torque wrenches work and if they could be calibrated and adjusted at home. As usual, Google helped me find some interesting info. Here's a page that describes how they work. The guy had a hosed up wrench, so he disassembled it and made some good photos. He briefly touches on how they are adjusted. http://www.tegger.com/hondafaq/torque_wrench/index.html This page has some interesting info, and shows a home-made torque tester for testing the accuracy of a torque wrench: http://home.jtan.com/~joe/KIAT/kiat_3.htm This page describes a simple method of testing accuracy and how to calculate a correction factor for your wrench: http://www.dieseldoctor.com/messageboard/data/229.html With careful measuring and weighing, you should be able to determine how accurate your torque wrench is. If you are brave, you can try to adjust it yourself. I don't recommend DIY calibration and adjustment for critical applications.

You only need to borrow it long enough to pass inspection. I would do some more research before swapping in another ECM. The FSM for my '99 shows a lot of differences for RHD. If the wiring harness and connectors are different, it may not work. Worst case, it may fry the new ECM. Google turned this up, might be helpful: http://www.onlinefreeebooks.net/automotive-machinery-power-equipment-ebooks/subaru/1997-subaru-legacy-service-manual-owners-manual-service-supplement-pdf.html

Like most other sensors, the oxygen sensor can be bad and still not throw a code. Specifically for the O2 sensor, they get "slow" before going totally bad. They feed wrong data to the ECM, but the data is still within normal range. No way for the ECM to know it is bad unless you have redundant sensors with voting software in the ECM. Most people won't pay for that in a car (airplanes, maybe). No CEL does not mean no problems. But you should ask how they diagnosed the sensor and everything else.

There's lots of discussion about the Subaru ATF-HP on the various forums. for example: http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=1480425#Post1480425 At this point, I can't recommend anything except the genuine Subaru ATF-HP. Hopefully, the manufacturers that are rumored to meet the spec (Valvoline, Amsoil, Mobil 1, etc.) will soon clearly list it on thier product spec sheets - then we will have a choice. vinder1, you should try other dealers. I paid $8.05 per quart, list price is $8.95.

Your knock sensor was broken, so the money you spent on it was not wasted. The knock sensor code is thrown ONLY if the knock sensor is defective. And yes, it can be intermitant. Knock or predetination is a normal operating condition. It happens often, whether you hear it or not. Under load, the engine is running on the hairy edge of predetonation. The knock sensor tells the ECU when it happens so the ECU can take appropriate action to prevent engine damage. If the knock sensor is defective, the ECU goes into a limp mode (retarded timimg) to protect the engine and the car has no power. And yes, the limp mode can intermitant, also. The miss and other symptoms you are experiencing now are a different problem.