I was removing the EJ18 motor from my BRAT and as I split the engine/tranny apart I looked at the tranny and I see the back of the flywheel still attached. The engine crank shaft had some broken bolts sticking out of them

 

So, what I thought was a dead motor/spun crank bearing was actually the flywheel bolts. three bolts snapped off and the rest worked themselves lose.

 

I spoke to a friend of mine who's a subaru rally mechanic and he said that everytime you remove the flywheel bolts, you should get new ones. Something about how the torque spec really stretches them out. i also think that when I reamed out my holes for the flywheel, they were not perfect. I think the one that snapped was tough to get in and it may have put some side force on the bolt. I plan to take my reamer to it and give them all a good shaving to make sure that they have adequate clearance. That and buy new flywheel bolts.

 

Anyone have this happen?

So, does that mean you don't have to change your engine?

 

I was removing the EJ18 motor from my BRAT and as I split the engine/tranny apart I looked at the tranny and I see the back of the flywheel still attached. The engine crank shaft had some broken bolts sticking out of them

 

So' date=' what I thought was a dead motor/spun crank bearing was actually the flywheel bolts. three bolts snapped off and the rest worked themselves lose.

 

I spoke to a friend of mine who's a subaru rally mechanic and he said that everytime you remove the flywheel bolts, you should get new ones. Something about how the torque spec really stretches them out. i also think that when I reamed out my holes for the flywheel, they were not perfect. I think the one that snapped was tough to get in and it may have put some side force on the bolt. I plan to take my reamer to it and give them all a good shaving to make sure that they have adequate clearance. That and buy new flywheel bolts.

 

Anyone have this happen?[/quote']

 

I can redrill a flywheel if you need

So, does that mean you don't have to change your engine?

 

I am gonna put the engine that I just got in there b/c the crankshaft mating surface is pretty chewed up and there are three broken bolts sticking out of it. If I were to use the engine that just came out, I will have to take it to a machine shop to get it smoothed out and milled flat. they PRobably will not do it unless the crankshaft is removed from the engine.

 

BTW I Scott F. I spoke to the guy about the shop space. No go. He was interested in hosting a spot for the lemons race. Also give me a call, I lost your numbers b/c my wife got my phone wet.

 

BW

No need to replace them with new bolts , there are more bolts on the subaru crank to hold that fly wheel on then a 500 hp V8 . just loctight them with the red stuff and tork them to spec but i just impact them, on the high setting in a cross pattern ,

 

Improper clamping surface beacuse of the sloted holes (for the EJ swap) could stress the bolt if over tightened and brake them over time

Improper clamping surface beacuse of the sloted holes (for the EJ swap) could stress the bolt if over tightened and brake them over time

 

True. I am going to use some quiksteel to make the holes round. Basically put a longer bolt in temporarily into the hole and then pack it w/quiksteel.

 

Right now I have the newer engine apart and I am painting it.

 

It's gonna look nice

 

BW

Could we get some good pics of your flywheel?

 

This is the first time I've heard of this happening and I'd like to know if I should stop recommending that my adapter plate customers hand-machine their own flywheels. I'd like to see just how eccentric your holes were.

 

If they're very bad, I'd say get a new flywheel and try again.

 

I really wouldn't try "Quicksteel-ing" a flywheel. Especially after what just happened.

Could we get some good pics of your flywheel?

 

This is the first time I've heard of this happening and I'd like to know if I should stop recommending that my adapter plate customers hand-machine their own flywheels. I'd like to see just how eccentric your holes were.

 

If they're very bad, I'd say get a new flywheel and try again.

 

I really wouldn't try "Quicksteel-ing" a flywheel. Especially after what just happened.

 

I hear you. I will take pics tonight. When I say quicksteel, I mean using the stuff to eliminate the oblonged holes and make then round again.

 

BW

I hear you. I will take pics tonight. When I say quicksteel' date=' I mean using the stuff to eliminate the oblonged holes and make then round again.

 

BW[/quote']

 

 

Yeah, I get what you're saying with the quicksteel, just using it as a filler material, but I think when you either tighten the bolts or start the engine it will immediately absorb the energy that broke the bolts in the first place and just crack away and you'll be in the exact same predicament.

so should I get it welded and then re-drill the holes?

so should I get it welded and then re-drill the holes?

 

Yes, or get a different flywheel and have a machine shop mill out the holes.

 

It also occurs to me that there may have been some misalignment between the engine and tranny due to the adapter plate. Though this would have most likely resulted in damage to the tranny I would think... I'm not sure. I just know that no one has had a problem like this when using my adapters, and I believe you made your own plate, correct? Not to dis your work or push an adapter plate on you, but it could be a possiblity. :-\

 

If you get the flywheel welded, you need not completely fill in the holes, just add enough filler to de-ovalize the holes and work back at it with the die grinder. If you fill them in all the way that much weld will be a nightmare to drill through.

It also occurs to me that there may have been some misalignment between the engine and tranny due to the adapter plate. Though this would have most likely resulted in damage to the tranny I would think... I'm not sure.

 

You're right, he shouldn't discount this possibility. but he did say that at least one of his flywheel holes was not quite aligned properly.

It also occurs to me that there may have been some misalignment between the engine and tranny due to the adapter plate. Though this would have most likely resulted in damage to the tranny I would think... I'm not sure. I just know that no one has had a problem like this when using my adapters, and I believe you made your own plate, correct? Not to dis your work or push an adapter plate on you, but it could be a possiblity. :-\

 

If you get the flywheel welded, you need not completely fill in the holes, just add enough filler to de-ovalize the holes and work back at it with the die grinder. If you fill them in all the way that much weld will be a nightmare to drill through.

 

No worries about dissing. I am humble enough to realize that I am a shade-tree mechanic who jerry-rigs stuff to make it work.

 

I did make my own plate. I use the bottom two bolts to serve as a guide since they are the ones that are the same. Test fitting the two together w/o the clutch showed that the input shaft went right into the pilot bearing w/no probs.

 

I plan to take the flywheel to a auto machine shop to have them take a look at it. I have another EA81 flywheel bolted to the back of the old BRAT motor that I can take off if I have to re-drill. Will be taking a crack at it this weekend.

 

BTW thanks for all of the input/comments and all.

 

Hopefully this doesn't happen to others.

 

BW

Ok so I was able to back track what I did the first time and I think I know where the problems occured.

 

1) Improper torque of the flywheel bolts.

 

The three bolts that snapped did not have any damage to the bolt heads. The others showed signed of being chewed by the springs on the clutch plate.

 

For future EJ swappers I am gonna recommend that you just replace the flywheel bolts. They are .90 cents each and it's that little bit of insurance.

 

I think the bolts are designed to stretch a bit when torqued and that provides a more tension and clamping force. Re-using them could lead to inadequate force.

 

So all it well. BRAT is back together and roaring just fine