Hey guys, I know this has been discussed a lot here...in fact spent about 30-40 mins going through old posts....I just have a clarification on this:

 

I am thinking of taking it to a shop who said the solenoid may have gone bad.

 

If the FWD fuse works (no grinding) does this mean the solenoid is working and doesnt need to be replaced or checked?

 

But I am thinking I will first try doing a fluid flush....but just wanna know if the solenoid could have gone bad (then i'll take it to the shop)....plus does the solenoid have anything to do with fuel mileage?

 

Its a 98 Legacy GT (2.5)

 

 

ps: am a real newbie for car repairing stuff but learning....thx

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I am thinking of taking it to a shop who said the solenoid may have gone bad.

 

If the FWD fuse works (no grinding) does this mean the solenoid is working and doesnt need to be replaced or checked?

If torque bind symptoms go away with the fuse in, duty solenoid C is working. If the folks at the shop don't get that, you might want to consider whether that's a place to trust.

 

If you haven't already done so, one of the first things to check is whether your tires are all properly inflated, and that they are of the same size. See: http://www.endwrench.com/pdf/drivetrain/RearAxleBindingInfoF99.pdf

 

 

But I am thinking I will first try doing a fluid flush....but just wanna know if the solenoid could have gone bad (then i'll take it to the shop)....plus does the solenoid have anything to do with fuel mileage?

 

Its a 98 Legacy GT (2.5)

A full flush would probably be worthwhile. If the problem doesn't disappear right away after the fluid change, drive around a bit before assuming there wasn't a cure -- it can take a little time to resolve. A few tight figure-eights while driving in reverse (in a safe area, please) might help. Some forum members have reported good results by using a limited-slip additive (friction modifier) in the ATF, but that wouldn't be my first choice.

 

Disabling AWD (rear drive) by putting in the fuse doesn't affect gas mileage very much, if at all, because the car still has the drag of all the hardware.

 

 

ps: am a real newbie for car repairing stuff but learning....thx

Welcome to the forum; good for you for being willing to get involved with your car's repair.

Hey man...really appreciate your post. Thanks for the clarification.

Well...am going to get the fluid done first and see what happens after that...will let you know...

 

thx

Simon

Alright...so i got the ATF flushed (T-tech) at Mr Lube...and what do you know! Its gone...the shudder,etc...rides great..

 

The fluid in was really black too...so glad...

 

It got me wondering about any other fluid that I should change which normally doesnt get changed like the differential?

 

Is there any other fluid that I should check out a high mileage (180km) subaru?

 

thx again

Cool the flush worked.

 

Is there any other fluid that I should check out a high mileage (180km) subaru?

Yes, front and rear diff gear oils, power steering fluid (uses same ATF as the transmission), brake fluid, coolant, engine oil.

yeah.. i'd get most of the fluids changed out if you don't know when the last time it was done... diff's are relitivly forgiving, but it can be amazing how much smoother a ride you'll get when you change out all your fluids.

Glad to hear that the torque bind went away, sometimes it takes more than one flush to get all the junk out of there.