SubaruBratBoy Posted June 11, 2007 Share Posted June 11, 2007 Well maybe it's a rotor issue. So i bought brand new rotors, and pads. I have turned the piston on the brake assembly until it doesn't lower any more but it still will not go over the brake pads and rotor. is there something i am not doing? 1986 brat, do the pistons need to be pushed or is it purely twist to lower it? The worn brakes would fit..... but i don't want worn brakes. Does the rotor need to be turned or whatever that's called to remove some of the thickness so the brakes can be put on? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
idosubaru Posted June 11, 2007 Share Posted June 11, 2007 are you sure they are turned in all the way and emergency brake is off? most likely you just need to line up the back of the brake pads with the pistons. 'im not familiar with brats, but pads and pistons aren't typically flat. they have ridges and such in them, the pistons have to so they can be turned. and pads often have little nubs on the back. those nubs need to fit in a recessed portion of the piston so they don't stick out very far...if they don't, then exactly what is happenign to you will happen. you will have to tighten them a little more or actually loosen them, turn them back out just a 1/2 turn or so until the nubs on the pad line up with a recessed portion of the piston face. did you turn the pistons on both sides? compare them and make sure they are retracted to the same depth. if they are at different heights, then they aren't compressing properly. which means they need new seals (couple dollars) or you need new calipers. aside from that, is it possible you got the wrong rotors or pads (or they gave you the wrong ones)? it's obvoiusly rare, but i've seen the wrong parts come in the right box...in other words order "XT6 something" and get the wrong part even when the box says XT6 and has the right part numbe ron it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SubaruBratBoy Posted June 11, 2007 Author Share Posted June 11, 2007 No I compared the old rotors to the new ones and the old pads to the new ones. The pads fit great inside of the thing that attaches to the caliper. The caliper has a single piston, it will not even get over the brake pads to reach the raised spots on the pads. The pads are completely pressed against the rotor. I just don't know if there's any other way to lower the piston any more. It has the i hour glass shaped piece, which is the best way i could describe it, that is raised outwards. It goes down for maybe | | that much then it goes closer to the center. The bottom of the widest part of the piston is just at the base of the caliper, maybe sticking out a little higher. I don't know how well i am describing this. But it just seems like something is too thick. The old brake pads fit with the new rotors. Can the rotors be ground down professionally to fit the new pads? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MilesFox Posted June 12, 2007 Share Posted June 12, 2007 turning the postons sometimes can be a chore where they jus spon. you would have to ush on them as you turn, small taps with a hammer will help till it catches thread and turns all the way down Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SubaruBratBoy Posted June 12, 2007 Author Share Posted June 12, 2007 turning the postons sometimes can be a chore where they jus spon. you would have to ush on them as you turn, small taps with a hammer will help till it catches thread and turns all the way down Thanks miles, I'll definitely give that a try. Im going to have to get another one of the rubber things that covers the side of the piston because in the process of trying to twist the piston i caught hold of the rubber and ripped it open really good so i just removed it completely for now. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Skip Posted June 12, 2007 Share Posted June 12, 2007 Bratboy, Miles make a good point, you may want to get a "brake cube" Advance Auto, Pep Boys ect about 6 bucks Stick a 3/8" extention and rachet Push and turn. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
joostvdw Posted June 12, 2007 Share Posted June 12, 2007 or you can make your own with 3 bolts and a piece of metal! that's what I did and it works like a charm, you just have to push and turn and voila. Oh and about the seal around the piston, that's somewhat important so be sure to replace it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SubaruBratBoy Posted June 12, 2007 Author Share Posted June 12, 2007 Bratboy, Miles make a good point, you may want to get a "brake cube" Advance Auto, Pep Boys ect about 6 bucks Stick a 3/8" extention and rachet Push and turn. I believe ill pick one of those up tomorrow Thanks! Soon, very soon I will be driving this puppy! It is taking me a while for this left side i guess just because this is my first one. I am encountering all of the problems now so when i go to the right side ill have everything i need and should take a day Then i will not be so worried about driving!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SubaruBratBoy Posted June 15, 2007 Author Share Posted June 15, 2007 Alright so i bought that little brake block thing but i couldn't get enough leverage with it so i went back to the channel locks and a small hammer. I was able to tap and turn and lowered it a little more but it still is just barely catching on the side of the brake pad. Going to send a picture to 86bratman of the piston and see if that is as low as it goes. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
86BRATMAN Posted June 16, 2007 Share Posted June 16, 2007 This picture he sent me best dipicts where the piston is at. From the best of my memory it needs to go at least another 1/8 to 1/4 of an inch father in. I use the little tool that skip posted up, with a big 1/2 drive ratchet reduced down and a 3" extention. Gives me a lot of leverage on it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TomRhere Posted June 16, 2007 Share Posted June 16, 2007 The piston should sit just about flush with the dust seal, (missing in above pic). So yeah, it needs to go in somemore as it's still out to far. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MilesFox Posted June 17, 2007 Share Posted June 17, 2007 you can use the working end of a pair of jaw pliers or needle nose pliers to catch the grooves on the fave of the piston and turn it that way. usually if you find a subaru with a "new caliper" its because the last guy didnt know tho turn the piston or screwed it up otherwise. if you ever work the parking brake lever on the caliper itself it will move the piston out. suppose you could work the lever and extend the piston, then turn it to atch a thread. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SubaruBratBoy Posted June 18, 2007 Author Share Posted June 18, 2007 Well when i took my rotors to be turned i also took my caliper to see if they could put the rubber gaskets on for me, when i came back they told me that the caliper was junk and that the piston was stripped. So looks like all my hard work to remove the rust and what not was all for not. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gloyale Posted June 18, 2007 Share Posted June 18, 2007 This picture he sent me best dipicts where the piston is at. From the best of my memory it needs to go at least another 1/8 to 1/4 of an inch father in. I use the little tool that skip posted up, with a big 1/2 drive ratchet reduced down and a 3" extention. Gives me a lot of leverage on it. You need to rotate the piston so that the recesses are 90 Degrees to what they are in the picture. There are 2 pins on the back of the pads, the sit in those recesses. Try puting the inner pad into the caliper before sliding it over the disc. It could be the caliper is bad but I doubt it. Operate the ebrake lever a few times(with a block or something in the caliper to keep the piston from being pushed out) See if the pad inches it;s way out. If it does the adjuster is working, and not stripped. also once you bottom out the adjustment, have you used a C clamp to compress the last little bit? I've had to do that. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.