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Could a bent wheel cause torque bind??

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Chapter 5 in the Misadventures of Dave's '95 Legacy-

 

I got to thinking this morning that my torque bind issues first became noticeable a few days ago when I rotated the front wheels to the back to try and cure a little low-speed steering wobble, which I think was caused by a bent wheel. Moving the front wheels to the back cured the wobble, (well, I can still feel it in the back a little), but that's when the torque bind issues were first noticed. I haven't tried to balance the wheel to confirm it's bent yet, but it's a steel wheel and it feels like it's got a little side-to-side wobble going on.

 

Once again, it's a '95 5 spd. AWD, currently being driven with no rear driveshaft section.

I would check the tire to make sure they are all the same size, have all worn the same, and are all properly inflated.

The next test would be to out the tires back where they were to see what happens.

 

nipper

  • Author

Check! Tires are all the same size, properly inflated and have similar wear. I haven't measured circumference, but tread depth is the same within 1/16" on all four. Guess I'll have to put the driveshaft back in before I put the wheels back where they were.

Have you driven with a flat or underinflated tire recently?

  • Author

No, but I just bought the car last week. It was a dealer trade-in, so I have no idea whether the previous owner did. I took the problem back to the dealer and they were unwilling to help much.

ok i bet its just a coincidence that it showed up with the tire rotation. Let me guess, you took the car on a longer drive after you rotated the tires.

 

The previous owner probably caused it, passed it on to the dealer, dealer sold it to you. Dealer amy not have known about it.

 

Is there any mandatory 30 day warrenty in utah like there is in NY

 

nipper

  • Author

GIVE that man an OREO!

 

Yes, I did go on a longer drive after I rotated the tires, and no, there's no mandatory 30-day warranty in Utah. (OTOH, we're not required to hire a real-estate lawyer in order to buy a house.) When you buy a used car here they make you sign an "AS-IS" disclosure, which the dealer waved in my face when I told them of the problem. They disclaimed any knowledge of anything being wrong with the car. The only help they offered was a dealer-discount on the necessary parts to repair it.

GIVE that man an OREO!

 

 

Dont forget the milk. Milk is more expensive then gas here in NY :-p

 

 

nipper

I would have to surmise, that if all things before check out, you may need the Solenoid "C" replaced and/or the rear output hub inside section replaced as the clutches are probably wearing into the hub, forming a groove that the clutches stick in intermittantly.

 

Lewis

I would have to surmise, that if all things before check out, you may need the Solenoid "C" replaced and/or the rear output hub inside section replaced as the clutches are probably wearing into the hub, forming a groove that the clutches stick in intermittantly.

 

Lewis

 

Its a 5 speed. No duty c no clutchs aside from the one behind the flywheel.

 

 

nipper

This just goes to show you I shouldn't be up this late, I read it, saw it, but it just didn't register....

 

Soooo... How about the viscous coupler? I have had luck swapping those out in the same manner as the clutch/drum set up in the 4EAT....

 

It is obvious when its out on the bench if it is good or not, everything should spin with some resistance. If nothing moves, its all locked up, and would best be fixed by swapping in a unit from a trans with a different problem.

 

Lewis

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