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loyale cv boot replacement help


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So, while crawling around down there, I see that I have a front inner cv boot damaged. I changed one out on another loyale I had a few years ago, but there must be a faster way as it took hours. The biggest challenge I had was removing the axle from the transmission. There is a small pin that holds it in place and all I could find that fit was a bolt to gently knock it out. I replaced the boots and was told that a sufficient job could be done with pliers (needlenose) tightening the ring clamp. Well, it wasn't and within a week they had both spun. I talked to the garage I took my car to in Calgary (great shop!) and they said with the contamination it made more sense to get a whole new axle with boots attached. Made sense, but I seem to go through at least one boot every 6 months. This seems excessive to me. My car is stock, I do little off roading and when I do it's slow speed (but high fun). Do other loyale owners find they go through broken cv boots frequently? Or is it just me.

 

Thanks all!

 

-Richard

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its not just you, but I do not have a recommendation on what brand to use.

 

For the record, any do-it-yourselfer can disassemble an axle enough to clean it out thoroughly with mineral spirits or diesel fuel, and then re pack it with fresh grease.

 

Pulling an axle shouldn't be that major of a deal; there are many here who claim they can do it in WELL under an hour, from soup to nuts. I pulled my first one a few weeks ago and it took me about an hour to pull; I unbolted the pivot bolt of the lower control arm, unmounted the sway bar on that side, pounded out the pin, removed the nut holding the t/c rod in place on the chassis (although i THINK that might not have been needed, based on what people say here) and just.. pulled the bottom of the wheel away from the car until it slid off the tranny.

 

Installation is a bit trickier, because pulling the new axle through the wheel hub can be difficult.. but not EXCESSIVELY. Go to the top right corner of the screen, click on USRM. there is a GREAT EA series axle write-up by edrach in there.

 

Also, many people have great luck using properly sized hose clamps in place of the craptastic clamps that typically come with das boots.

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Stainless steel hose clamps. Get the German ones with the rounded edges if you can - they make them in 1/4" width for stuff like the turbo intake hoses on the Audi's, etc.

 

Pull the axle off the tranny, dissasemble the inner joint and slide on your new boots. Shouldn't take more than an hour total. I can do a straight axle swap in about 20 to 30 minutes without boot changes.

 

GD

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I think when we take our cars off-road over uneven terrain it streches the boots farther than they like on our cars, hence the shotened life.

But it's so much fun taking a family wagon out on the trails that I just look past it and enjoy the looks of confusion on the Jeep guys faces. :lol:

 

I have an old EA81 and have just recently done all four boots up front.

I used the stainless hoseclamps. Seems to hold the boots quite nicely, and I have not noticed any vibration on the highway.

I also on the small end of the boot, clamped it down a little farther out (just about 1/2 inch towards the actual CV joint from the grove in the axle) so that when fully extended the boot is not quite as streched. Seems to work ok.

 

I even went out and bought the tools for both styles of CV clamps and they STILL would not hold.

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