Sure you don't want it to be acid dipped to kill all that rust that is hiding in all the cracks and so forth. I know sandblasting is good but it can't get into every concealed spot.

If I can find someone to acid dip then sure. Don't know if there is one around here...

I just did some reading about Acid-diping.

 

Other than the fact that there isn't one locally, there seem to be some possible issues with it.... Like the acid not washing off 100% sometimes, it can eat quite a bit of metal, and it can even air-out later through the paint :-\

 

Media blasting is still probably my best bet I think...

I'm having a *************** of a time getting the tie-rods un-installed

 

Anyone have any tips?

I just did some reading about Acid-diping.

 

Other than the fact that there isn't one locally, there seem to be some possible issues with it.... Like the acid not washing off 100% sometimes, it can eat quite a bit of metal, and it can even air-out later through the paint :-\

 

Media blasting is still probably my best bet I think...

 

If the metal they made ff-1's out of is anything like what they used on 360's (I bet it is) you don't want to acid dip it. It's super thin to begin with, if you dipped it, there wouldn't be much left to the body.

Yes, some of the metal is pretty darn thin... But there are varying thicknesses in the car, its not ALL super-thin. I've kind of ruled out the acid dip at this point for several rather good reasons

man i don't come here that often but i though about checking out this part of the forum.. great project cant wait to se more progress:)

I'm having a *************** of a time getting the tie-rods un-installed

 

Anyone have any tips?

 

Where aren't they wanting to come off from? The knuckle? Beat on the knuckle right where the taper is and it should vibrate loose. If its seperating the outer tie rod ends from the inners, then heat and lots of grunting is required.

Where aren't they wanting to come off from? The knuckle? Beat on the knuckle right where the taper is and it should vibrate loose. If its seperating the outer tie rod ends from the inners, then heat and lots of grunting is required.

Its the outer joint where the tie-rod connects to the control arm/trailing arms (front AND rear are being stubborn)...

 

Its sad, cause in the FSM's and other manuals it says it just comes apart when you take out the lock bolts

Here is the EA63 motor I just picked up off ebay ( http://www.allengine.com GREAT vendor BTW! Sells imported Japanese motors of almost ANY kind) and picked up down in Fresno at the warehouse:

 

 

Can anyone understand that compression chart? I've never seen one before.

One bar is 15psi so it looks like cylinders 1, 2, and 3 are 49psi and cylinder 4 is 48psi.

It looks like the scale is actually reading 1.0, 1.5, 2.0 and so on without the dots.

Have you checked with your own tester yet?

Have you checked with your own tester yet?

I don't have my own tester, but if it is only 1psi off then its not a huge deal.

One bar is 15psi so it looks like cylinders 1, 2, and 3 are 49psi and cylinder 4 is 48psi.

It looks like the scale is actually reading 1.0, 1.5, 2.0 and so on without the dots.

Have you checked with your own tester yet?

14.7 psi/Bar, to be precise.

I don't have my own tester, but if it is only 1psi off then its not a huge deal.

Right, no big deal. You should check it yourself before you run it and again after it's broken in. Maybe it'll be closer after you break it in.

 

It's been great watching your progress!!

 

Yes/No?

 

(the funky writing is a watermark from this illustration online but I modified it a bit)

 

Yes/Yes?

Fixed it for ya.

Not sure on the whitewalls and those steels.

But definately looking sharp. Perhaps different steels or some period alloys and fender mirrors.

lookin cool man. im not looking forward 2 cutting all the rust outs of my lil 1400 coupe.

I dont remember what you said to this cause its buried like 20 pages ago but why not get a nice set of Gold Enkeis and put some white letter tires on them and plop them on? They would fill up the wheel wells nice and would look great on a white car (kinda like a 70s STI).

 

If thats not your style then the above picture is cool. I agree with above, im not so sure about the whitewall tires. Thats more of a 40s and 50s american barge look if you ask me.

Not sure on the whitewalls and those steels.

Those aren't whitewalls.

I dont remember what you said to this cause its buried like 20 pages ago but why not get a nice set of Gold Enkeis and put some white letter tires on them and plop them on?

Got any 14" enkeis?

ZAP will be selling a set of 14" basket weave Enkeis soon.

Well I finally got the suspensions dismantled (IE tie rods removed). Now there are the funny tie rod bearings in the large suspension pieces that will keep me from being able to clean up the suspension well until they are removed

 

Plus, the hubs... The two ball bearings on the front hubs and the tie rod ball bearing... Those suckers just WON'T come out!

 

At least I got the EA61 shortblock disassembled finally. I had to unbolt the con rods while the block was split and remove the pistons in reverse of how i'm supposed to (IE removing the sleeves first) but it made it easier, since I was able to tap out the sleeves afterwards from inside.

 

Now the heads + shortblock halves need a pressure washer bath for sure! Yuck!

If you can, post up the pics of said bearings and we can see whats going on in there. I'll have to see if I have one of the FF1 manuals in my collection that covers that as well.

If you can, post up the pics of said bearings and we can see whats going on in there. I'll have to see if I have one of the FF1 manuals in my collection that covers that as well.

The FSM requires a special installation tool, and only mentions installation not removal...

The FSM requires a special installation tool, and only mentions installation not removal...

 

Since the installation is the reverse order of removal, can you say removal is the reverse of installation? :-p

 

Also, show us some pics, I know I love to see the work getting done on this car!

Since the installation is the reverse order of removal, can you say removal is the reverse of installation? :-p

No, not really. The rear suspension is one long tube with a brake in the middle. You cant "push" the bearings out of it, you need to pull them out, but the installation tool won't work like that.

Also, show us some pics, I know I love to see the work getting done on this car!

Nothing much to show right now, just parts in boxes. That and I had food poisoning today keeping me from working on the car today :-\