samneric Posted October 29, 2007 Share Posted October 29, 2007 Hi all, I got a reconditioned hitachi carb along with my Brat when I bought it. I haven't fitted it yet because I haven't had a lot of time and the only symptoms are stalling for the 1st minute or two until it gets warm.... Now with the fall closing in and a period of cooler weather, I'm having to keep my foot in the gas longer in the mornings as it warms up, so on to the carb swap project. Just a couple of questions before I dive in and starting reading the books etc.... Is this a pretty straightforward unbolt old, bolt on new I.E. can it be done in one night? Is there any priming that needs to go on with the new one??? Are there any other issues I need to know about that have cropped up in peoples experience??? Thanks, Steve Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
samneric Posted October 30, 2007 Author Share Posted October 30, 2007 Update... I swapped in the new carb last night. Hardest part was figuring out the maze of tubes that run off here and there. I tried using my '86 brat as a reference to make sure all was ok but that seemed to have a different make up all together. So I simply put it back together the same as it was before to avoid any confusion. Now at the risk of receiving a hail of "swap out that ************achi for a Carter" I was wondering if anyoue out there still knows a bit about the cold start system of the Hitachi. I probably will swap it out at some point but cant afford one right now so I'm trying to limp along.... The engine still struggles when cold and will stall if I take my foot off the gas. While I had the hood open and the top of the air cleaner off I did some troubleshooting. I hooked up the trigger starter and ran some tests. I could get it to start and stay running if I pressed the choke plate all the way closed. It kept wanting to open slightly (maybe the heater element was warming the bimetal to quickly or there isn't enough vacuum pulling it closed - dunno). The diagrams in the FSM seem to have the choke diaphram hooked up to the intake manifold and also to what it terms as "Thermo Valve 2". I have the intake manifold line plugged in but the other connector on the diaphram has a rubber bung on it and at this point I haven't found out where Thermo Valve 2 is. Could this be the missing element that is allowing the choke plate to open up to quickly??? Curiously, Steve Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Durania Posted October 30, 2007 Share Posted October 30, 2007 The one we refer to alot is the Weber, the carter-weber is a completely different thing and you don't want one of them. I rememeber the hitachi being a mess of hoses on my hatchback and to do anything was a real challenge. Luckily, I bought a brat that already had a weber on it and it makes doing spark plugs, intake gaskets, heater hoses and alternator work so much easier. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
samneric Posted October 30, 2007 Author Share Posted October 30, 2007 The one we refer to alot is the Weber, the carter-weber is a completely different thing and you don't want one of them. I rememeber the hitachi being a mess of hoses on my hatchback and to do anything was a real challenge. Luckily, I bought a brat that already had a weber on it and it makes doing spark plugs, intake gaskets, heater hoses and alternator work so much easier. Ho ok, so where does one buy a Weber and whats the difference between that and the Carter-Weber? I always thought of the Weber as a shortened name for Carter-Weber. As a kid I remember if you wanted an engine beefing up, you add a weber - I guess because its double barrel compared to the single throat of most of the cars of those days... Steve Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Durania Posted October 30, 2007 Share Posted October 30, 2007 If memory serves me correctly, the Carter-Weber was a one barrell or something. I assume its still for sale in the "for sale" forum. http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=80874&highlight=buy+a+weber This a retailer a few people have used. http://www.redlineweber.com/ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
daeron Posted October 30, 2007 Share Posted October 30, 2007 you can keep your eyes peeled for a cheap weber carb somewhere, if you are handy at all you can rebuild a decent weber easily and could score one in need of rebuild for 100 bucks, if you're lucky. Then go to the redline website and buy adapters etc.. In other words, the price can be made somewhat elastic, if you can do some searching and some work yourself. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
samneric Posted November 2, 2007 Author Share Posted November 2, 2007 Not sure if this means anything to anyone but after comparing Brats I discovered a little mismatch in the subtle weaving of the vacuum and air hoses running around the carb. It appears there was a whole sub-section of these critters missing from my daily driver and after a thorough spot of research I identified what should go where and how. Maybe even why. The two pipes missing from the carb seem to be the Slow and Main system air supply passages and they are hooked up to the air cleaner via another clever vacuum switch that is controlled by a thermo valve. Anyways, not sure if this little addition is causing warmer air to be fed into those carb fittings but it seemed to start and run a tad better when all was said and done... Tomorrow morning will be the real proof of the pudding..... Steve Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bigjim5551212 Posted November 9, 2007 Share Posted November 9, 2007 Hi, I sell the Weber conversions from Redline. I can supply them for $375 shipped to you. Jim 1-800-665-5031 http://www.overseas-auto.com Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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