Mikldom Posted November 27, 2007 Share Posted November 27, 2007 Ok, on my 84 GL, ************achi carb, dual range 4x4, the new problem is this: On the EGR on the drivers side, it is a hose going into a round type thingy that looks like at first a vacuum canister, but it isn't, with another hose going to a funky plastic thingy, then hose to the air cleaner housing. The plastic round thingy, which I assume is a muffer or some sort, or sound deadner, melted at the bottom.. I could not figure out what the hell was wrong with my exhaust, it sounded like the engine was coming out of the hood, but that is because EGR was "pissing into the wind". I just ran a heater hose and bypassed that round muffler/deadener thingy and put it in the other plastic tube thingys and then to the housing, and it is doing its job.. still loud as hell tho.. I will hopefully get a new egr muffler thingy tomorrow. Can I just block off that egr? if I block it, it is quite quiet and doesn't run afoul. but with emissions and such, I would rather have it do what it is supposed to do.. If I cannot find this round canister/muffler/deadener thing, what do I substitute? I want something in there to quite the damn thing down, otherwise, I am just gonna block it.. sorry about it getting long winded, but suggest something, please! /mike Michael Dominesey mikldom@yahoo.com Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GeneralDisorder Posted November 27, 2007 Share Posted November 27, 2007 That is not an "EGR" It's one of your Air Injection Valves, and it has failed. The reed valve inside is broken and it's letting raw exhaust flow back into the intake - that hot exhaust melted the plastic silencer. Remove the big steel pipe from the back of the AIS valve and insert a quarter (yes - $0.25) into the end of the valve and thread it back on. This will effectively disable the valve (you don't need it) and will keep the exhaust from flowing back to the intake. Now check the carb to make sure it didn't ingest too much of the melted plastic. If everything is good you'll be $0.25 poorer and better off in the future as it can no longer fail. If you are up to it, put a quarter in the other side too - you'll avoid future problems that way. GD Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mikldom Posted November 27, 2007 Author Share Posted November 27, 2007 Cool.. I can't do this until tomorrow afternoon. I would assume that it is ok to drive it with this exhaust piping into the air cleaner housing, or should I just block it off.. Meaning, the exhaust coming into the intake is not hot, and I can put my finger on the hole to block it, and it silences it, but am I mucking it up until I do the quarter fix? I have to drive 200 miles in it tomorrow, and I am sure it will be fine. Thanks!!! mike mikldom@yahoo.com That is not an "EGR" It's one of your Air Injection Valves, and it has failed. The reed valve inside is broken and it's letting raw exhaust flow back into the intake - that hot exhaust melted the plastic silencer. Remove the big steel pipe from the back of the AIS valve and insert a quarter (yes - $0.25) into the end of the valve and thread it back on. This will effectively disable the valve (you don't need it) and will keep the exhaust from flowing back to the intake. Now check the carb to make sure it didn't ingest too much of the melted plastic. If everything is good you'll be $0.25 poorer and better off in the future as it can no longer fail. If you are up to it, put a quarter in the other side too - you'll avoid future problems that way. GD Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hatchsub Posted November 28, 2007 Share Posted November 28, 2007 I wouldnt do it for long periods of time. My car had that problem and it royally gunked up the carb that i had on it at the time. 200 miles should be fine but after that get it taken care of. The carb is not meant to ingest hot exhaust gas. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mikldom Posted November 28, 2007 Author Share Posted November 28, 2007 gunk up the carb? I think that may have already happened yesterday morning. she misses real bad but still has power, so it is strange! I will pull out a spark plug to look at it.. but the throat of the carb looks good. I have had coolant leaking issues but solved that.. can coolant getting on top of a spark plug, cause it to overheat and fail? that valve is attached to the engine? and not the exhaust manifold? thanks!! /mike I wouldnt do it for long periods of time. My car had that problem and it royally gunked up the carb that i had on it at the time. 200 miles should be fine but after that get it taken care of. The carb is not meant to ingest hot exhaust gas. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Frank B Posted November 28, 2007 Share Posted November 28, 2007 That is not an "EGR" It's one of your Air Injection Valves, and it has failed. The reed valve inside is broken and it's letting raw exhaust flow back into the intake - that hot exhaust melted the plastic silencer. Remove the big steel pipe from the back of the AIS valve and insert a quarter (yes - $0.25) into the end of the valve and thread it back on. This will effectively disable the valve (you don't need it) and will keep the exhaust from flowing back to the intake. Now check the carb to make sure it didn't ingest too much of the melted plastic. If everything is good you'll be $0.25 poorer and better off in the future as it can no longer fail. If you are up to it, put a quarter in the other side too - you'll avoid future problems that way. GD I thought it was a nickel (.05) or is that the connection by the exhaust port ??? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hatchsub Posted November 28, 2007 Share Posted November 28, 2007 I thought it was a nickel (.05) or is that the connection by the exhaust port ??? I think thats the connection to the exhaust port on the same pipe. Up near the valve its def a quarter..cause thats how i have my car put together. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Frank B Posted November 29, 2007 Share Posted November 29, 2007 Here you go! http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/1984-Subaru-EA81-Air-Suction-Valve-ASV-SPS377200-NEW-OE_W0QQitemZ220177644621QQihZ012QQcategoryZ33557QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GeneralDisorder Posted November 29, 2007 Share Posted November 29, 2007 Here you go!http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/1984-Subaru-EA81-Air-Suction-Valve-ASV-SPS377200-NEW-OE_W0QQitemZ220177644621QQihZ012QQcategoryZ33557QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem That's the one for the feedback controlled carb - that ASV is vacuum operated. Besides - you don't need them anyway. GD Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mikldom Posted November 29, 2007 Author Share Posted November 29, 2007 Definately a Quarter! I I got it apart, and put a quarter in on both sides at the Air Suction Valve. New problem has crept up.. Since my Top radiator hose took a piss and dumped the coolant all over the passenger side of the engine, the engine acts like it is missing. In the dark, I can see arcing around the base of the spark plug boots on the passenger side. I also see arcing in the dark on one of the plug cables on the driver side. Engine running like crap, and act it is missing is one of the symptoms of bad wires? I also hear some very minor popping and see a little arcing around both studs on the coil.. can dumping coolant all over the engine bay kill the wires? Oh, she is drinking gas like it is all tomorrow, and doesn't run halfway decent unless the tach is above 3k THANKS!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hatchsub Posted November 29, 2007 Share Posted November 29, 2007 Chances are your wires were on their way out anyways. If you can see arcing then your wires are shot. You might as well do a full tune-up (ie. plugs, wires, rotor, cap). Arcing of the wires would cause a miss. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mikldom Posted November 29, 2007 Author Share Posted November 29, 2007 got new E3 plugs in there already with only 1k miles.. took off the disty cap, and it is clean as a bone with no carbon.. The wires look like crap, but were 8mm, so I was trying to save them, but not anymore.. arcing at the boots on two plugs and on the wire at another. I am hoping my coil is not bad, as it is an Accel coil. Sux that I am 200 miles from home, with a fairly new accell coil there from the justy I junked.. I have wires on order at advance, and will install the new wires tomorrow and hopefully that will fix it, but if it still misses, then it must be the coil. it just runs like complete hell! it even ran fine for about 20 minutes, but then started up again.. when it was running good, I saw no arcing anywheres, but after it started running like crap again, looked around and saw three separate arcs.. it MUST be the wires.. (I am praying at least) I am going to install new fuel filters as well, the primary and the secondary /mike Chances are your wires were on their way out anyways. If you can see arcing then your wires are shot. You might as well do a full tune-up (ie. plugs, wires, rotor, cap). Arcing of the wires would cause a miss. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GeneralDisorder Posted November 29, 2007 Share Posted November 29, 2007 NGK Plugs, OEM Wires, OEM Coil, OEM Cap, OEM Rotor. Nothing else is going to work as well, or as reliably. Accel coils are known to have a pretty high failure rate anymore - made in Mexico. Don't know what this "E3" plug is, but replace them with NGK's - gapped to .040" Get OEM wires, and an OEM coil if you can. Cap and rotor too. GD Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.