Mikldom

Well, my son busted out the passenger side tail light on my 84 Brat. Assembly looks good. The lens is gone. Help! Eastern NC. Thanks!

Actually, YES.. only when I am stopped!!!! or really slow.. So, when slowing to a stop, I should just push clutch in (while still moving), take it into Nuetral? Is there an easy way to fix... I am going to change the gear oil and stick some Lucas in there when it warms up.. but... still, have a spare 5 speed, so I will go that route when I get some time.. and get Jerry in WA to build me up his kit after I remove the trans out of my spare brat to restore to get the needed pieces so I don't take my primary brat offline while waiting for the parts needed.

Hey Guys. I am having fun with my fully restored Brat that I got from a fellow board member, but I have been presented a new problem. Intermittenly, the stupid transmission does not want to come out of 4th gear!! I can sometimes "slam" it, and it will come out, other times, I have to let clutch out slightly to let it grab, then, push it out of fourth. Other times, no freaking issues at all. Any idea what this can be? Good thing I have a spare 5 speed I will be prepping to stick in there when I get some time (depending on issue, maybe sooner than later). let me know.. Thanks!!!

Great Link to a Great Video.. Thanks for putting that on here.. we need to put that as a "Sticky" Somewhere... This is sooo much easier then finding Peugot rims.... 6 lug rims are everywhere in salvage yards cheep too.

Hey Guys,, I haven't had the chance to research this, but it seems interesting. It says this unit has it's own built in ECU and can control ignition timing.. Only 8 connections. Could this be a viable replacement to a carbed unit without having to find a GEN3 donor SPFI and wiring harness.. What are your thoughts.. this seemed interesting. http://www.atomicefi.com/home.aspx I looked into the pricing... 2 GRAND!!!! Probably not an option for any of us.. but, still, interesting!!!

Did not go anywhere. Seriously, I worked the guy hard... a real old school, toupee wearing jerk. He went on an on and was telling me about cash offers and this and that, and How he was going to take it to auction and he would get 3500.00 yada yada yada. I am pretty sure he was using this as a selling tool.. Nobody in their right mind other than a Sube enthusiast would know what kinda of gold mine this is to the sube enthusiast.. Everybody else sees it as a 27 year old car that is under powered. He was only going to take a full price, AND he wanted full tax AND his 350.00 dealer fee... nah, no dice for me. As much as I really, (and I mean REALLY) wanted this, it was not coming to me for 3500.00 bux!!!! I even went as far as to offer as much as 2500 out the door, and there was no movement. He told me this was his car and he had his guy restore the interior and there was no way he was going to let it go. I just don't think he wanted to sell it to tell the truth. I travel enough, when I am looking soon again, I will check around. A hatch would have been perfect, but, a wagon would suit me just fine too. I just wished I could make this near mint one work, but not for 3500. I will try him again in a couple of weeks and see where he is with it.

I will apologize in advance if this is the wrong place.. I haven't been on here in ages!!! I have had many, many subarus and haven't had one in a while. I have found a small dealer local who has an 86 Hatch 4x4 with EA81.. not the 3dr.. I had one of those with the EA82 This thing looks mint!!! paint is perfect, top rack perfect, no rust, fully redone/ulphostered interior,, no real rust underneath to speak of either.. I mean, this thing is the best condition hatchback I have ever seen!!! It has about 156,000 miles on the clock. It is at a dealer, and they are asking for 2995 for it, which I think it really high, but, considering the rarity of it, and the condition, it may not be. Small dealers such as this, in my small town, would probably never sell it for that, as only an enthusiast will understand the value, and somebody looking to blow their tax return on a down payment and then dealer financing just isn't smart enough (or at least I would think so). I am considering going up there on Friday and offering 1500 cash on the spot and see if he would bite. My question, is how far should I go? I have always had junk subarus.. well not really junk but with levels of issues to deal with, so I have never had a really nice one.. this thing is a beauty and I would not want to lift it or anything,, a true classic and just looks awesome. I am comfortable going to 2000 cash, but I just don't think I can stomach 3 grand that he is asking for (but probably asking that because he knows most want financing). What is the consensus on later EA81 hatchs in EXCELLENT shape? I am very mechanically inclined on these things and have changed out transmissions, driveaxles and all sorts of things... My problem would be availability of parts in junkyards if it needs it in the future, as most yards are crushing anything older than 20 years and that is a darn shame too. Thanks... my Twin brother Mark says hi... anybody on here for a while will remember the twins who have been on and off here for years... /mike Edit: I don't know how to add images in this new board yet, but here is a link to a pic... thanks!!! https://www.dropbox.com/s/9pno7q9rgih4hee/side_profile_86hatch.jpg

don't think that a 4x8 sheet of plywood or similar will fit.. but.. I fit a twin size matteras and twin size boxsping in the back with the back seats folded down.. . barely fit, but it did and was able to shut the tailgate. much more room that my 84 gl sw

Not the only one. I am only 40 minutes away and work/grew up there. check out my pics http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=85173 look me up /mike mikldom@yahoo.com and...welcome to the board

Ok.. BRAND new copper/brass (not plastic or aluminum) radiator installed.. fully working thermo, water pump only 1 year old, block flushed. driving around, no problem.. at idle, or sllloooww speeds at high rpm (low range for driving on beach), the guage will go all the way to 3/4, but not touch the red, fans come on, and it slowly goes down.. I have the original fan and the ac fan wired together to both come on.. but heat under these conditions are worrisome.. Should I just get one of the aftermarket performance fans? for better airflow? or what about this misting additional cooling system...looks promising.. http://www.partsamerica.com/ProductDetail.aspx?MfrCode=HAD&MfrPartNumber=100&CategoryCode=6003 everything on the cooling system is in top notch, and with brand new good radiator, we can throw this out. could it be my low voltage condition causing a problem (but not at high idle).. Thanks!!

why when I have the radio on, headlights, heater fan, cooling fans (idling), and turn on the windshield wipers, do they barely move across? and with a 90 amp alt. in there. next up is to get the two year old battey tested at autozone and then run around and test voltages with my voltmeter at various points. could it be my wore out ignition switch? if so, what do we suggest to bypass with a relay switch? I saw a post somewhere here about that.. thanks for the suggestions... /mike

84 GL 4x4 SW 4spd, stock craptachi.. In any case.. constant low voltage issues.. when the fan comes on, goes near 8 volts, when you turn on the lights, then the fan goes on, even worse.. voltage drops when I run my stereo with a little bass. It does this on 3 alternators.. the stock EA81 (rebuilt one only 2 years old), a EA82 alt that I put in there, and now, yes a 90 amp XT6 Alternator.. same issues.. let's say ITS NOT THE ALTERNATOR.. could it be the relays on the passenger side strut tower? I have looked at my connections and they don't look too bad. I know somebody has had low voltage issues that alternators and battery did not solve.. Please point me in the right direction!!! THANKS!!! /mike

wrote this friday afternoon, did not post til monday a.m. MJ yes you are very close, at least I consider it close as I travel all over the place.. I am writing now at the VRE train station in Springfield, waiting for the train to Fredericksburg to pick up my car to go home 3 hours. too bad I dont have the Outback with me, as it is with the wife driving from Elizabeth City, NC to Norfolk every day (45 miles).. I will be going right by you !! I may take you up on the offer tho...any good boneyards around there? Not much in Hampton Roads anymore!! I have tried contact cleaner to no avail. the ac switch sticks still!! stupid design of the cupholder!! We'll Talk!! /mike mikldom@yahoo.com been on the boards for quite some time always have had EA81 rides got outack in Jan of this year

maybe this been discussed before, but I will apologize in advance... Our outback delays the changing when you push the buttons to go from floor, to defrost, to mix, to face, etc... now I know these are vacuum push buttons, but can somebody tell me any tricks or how to correct without too much trouble? other than that.. the car is PERFECT, yes, or course, it is a 2.5 and had the head gasket, timing belt, water pump, etc, changed recently, and it is fastttt... I love it more than the wifey does,, but it is her ride.. I still have my lifted 84 GL wagon that I drive for fun.. thanks in advance!!!! /mike

I am a life-long subie lover and have owned at least 6 DIFFERENT subies,, so nobody will ever say I am not. BUT, This is only a 2wd car?!!!! with the problems that are apparent (blown tranny), age, and the known problems of older subies, and the replacement tranny you gonna get and install, it just isn't worth it, (unless it was AWD or 4WD).. Their are plenty of other 2wd cars that come from other automakers for the same price that will work better for you (and the wife). Subies are GREAT cars and worth a lot of trouble, but in my opinion 2wd is the deal breaker and not worth it.. get another vehicle, even another subie, but don't drop 800 for a known busted one, and then have all the trouble to make it right. Hell, my 84 GL wagon, I have done 5 axles, changed transmissions, diagnosed many distributor issues, etc, BUT, at least it is 4wd!!!.. sorry to be down, I love subies, but you have to be realistic sometimes.. I don't want to burst your bubble, but don't flame me

Thanks for the links, but, I did not see anything about what proportions or ratios in there... like how much of each, or if you put just gear oil and Rislone in, how much Rislone, how much gear oil. and, if it is the old Rislone quart (which is mainly a cleaning additive), or the near rislone oil stabilizer with treatment added. Thanks!

AND Wtf is Scotty's Cocktail? I wonder if it is a good idea to put in a manual tranny that shifts ok, but as a preventative? Thanks

It will get to the point of unbearable.. Axle swaps are VERY easy... Most can do them in about 30-60 minutes.. first timers, give yourself 2-3 hours.. You can do this without popping balljoints and tie rod ends if you dismantle all the break stuff, undo the axle nut, take the strut mounts loose and pull the strut out, and stepping on the bottom arm.. don't forget to get the pin out of the axle on the transmission side of the axle.. and whatever you do, don't break off the pin tool in the axle! seriously, they are easy and it is best to just swap the whole axle.

Most likely bad DOJ on the inner joint of the CV axle, as others have stated.. that usually clues you in

nobody has suggested it could be the transmission? I have had two different vehicles both with the same problems you describe and it turned out to be the transmission failed... center diff broke a tooth I believe.. still have one of those transmissions in my back yard!!! anyways.. that could always be a possibility when you have checked everthing else out and no problems..

if it is real bad and the axles are sound, then you blew the center diff in your transmission. It will be there, and be real bad under power, but still thumping when you push the clutch in. I have had this happen twice, first to my Brat, then to my 84 Wagon. Good thing transmissions are fairly easy to change with 5 or 6 hours and a good jack.. let us know how it turns out..

I know the GM Conversion had been documented, well, by a few people, including my Twin Bro. As well as the XT(6) conversion. Seeing that EA81's are hard to find in boneyards, will an EA82 Alt fit into an EA81 without much mod? I think I have answered that before as I installed one from a XT that wasn't 90 amp, so I would love to find a 90 amp alt to go into my wagon. thanks for letting me know!! /mike

Got Advance to warranty the other one.. they ordered me a hitachi, so all I have to do is change back to a hitachi coil (which I have).. I will let you know how it turns out!!! THANKS!!!! /mike

Thanks for the offer, but I was able to take the four pieces up to advance auto and they looked up the receipt and ordered me another one. they ordered me a hitachi, so all I have to do is change back to a hitachi coil (which I have), AND I got 41 bux back in my pocket!!!! Thanks!!!! /mike

Started a new thread, but I thought I would finish this thread off. the car was at my twin brothers for 3 months, finally got it 300 miles home trailering it with a diesel F250 and diesel at 4.69 a gallon (125 bux), sat at home in the driveway for a month.. got under it today, took the oil pan cover off, took my big ball joint fork and a 12 ounce hammer and gingerly tapped on it, after hooking the fork into the shaft and... 5 minutes later.. the $umbi(th is out!!!! now need a known good nippo disty.. or hell, a known good hitachi is just as well as I have a good hitachi coil.... PLEASE somebody help me out and I am broke.. going from N.E. NC to Washington DC/MD this week and back.. so my options to pick it from a boneyard or somebody is pretty good.. don't have much money, but I know you guys can help me out.. Lemme know!!! and thanks!!!! /mike mikldom@yahoo.com