Mikldom

I guess I will know shortly.. the car was driven with it pegged, but immediately shut down.. The engine does not make any noises at all.. runs smoothly, no bumping, jumping, etc. Just can't run it with a thermo installed. Today my wife drove it 50 miles to my preferred shop, and it never got over 1/2.. and she run's great.. I am just hoping the heads or the block isn't crap.. I am keeping my fingers crossed. taking the heads off, should show evidence of the cylinder linings shifting or coming loose? I don't think so, as It would probably run like crap, but I should know in a day or two. I will keep you updated.. I don't want to go shopping for a used engine ( thanks again!!!

I am to understand that with the newest revision of the head gaskets, I should not have any problems once it is fixed? The dealer told my wife that if the car was six months older, it would have qualified under recall.. they looked it up via the VIN.. I do have a competent mechanic working on the car this week.. should have a new head gasket, new timing belts, and new water pump, wires, plugs, etc... I should be set, shouldn't I? This engine isn't bad, is it? at least it was/is bad until the original Head Gasket blows, but after that.. every thing should be well? btw.,, West Chester Dude, I am currently in Quakertown, and was broke down today in Jersey with my 84 GL.. turned out to be a broke/bad ignition coil, replaced that and all is well.. thanks again!!! /mike

I was careful to burp the system when filling, each and every time. I do have an air compressor, but I am leaning towards a HG being bad. I have read enough that these fail and don't burn coolant, but leak exhaust into the coolant system, create pockets of air, and then overheating is eminent. It really sucks that I just bought the thing, and was assured it was perfect from the little car dealer in D.C. I am over 200 miles away at home, and will likely try to get him to pay for 1/2, and if he tells me to "take a hike" then I will file a formal complaint with the D.C. Indpedent dealers association. I paid $3900 for a car that is otherwise PERFECT. Transmission is awesome, engine has awesome power, everything works, and not a scratch on the inside, nor the outside. The "private party" value for this car according to Kelley Blue Book is $6500. I feel that if it costs a grand to fix it, and in that endeavor the timing belts are changed, as well as the water pump, then I should be able to go 100k miles before anything major happens. I will likely get the transmission serviced as well for good measure. What sucks is that we sold a perfectly good 1999 Honda Passport with only 100k miles on it to buy this, so we would have no car payment, and needed good gas mileage. The OB has a little over 200 miles on the trip odemeter, and it is just under 1/2 on the gas guage.. It does ride and look awesome.. just sux to have to fix it right after we get it.. I should have taken a little more time with it before I bought it, but it suffered no ill effects under test drive, etc. Thanks for listening.. NOW, do we know of any competent mechanics we trust in the Eastern Virginia Area? Anybody with some time on their hands willing here? /mike

How to accomplish said leak down test? My understanding that if exhaust was pushing into coolant (not coolant into combustion chamber), then it is possible it is a "one-way" street. Since no steam coming out, and no bubbles, is this still a possibility? Thanks for the post... Will a compression test confirm? I am troubled that she runs fine with no thermostat, but as soon as one is installed, overheats in 5 minutes..

Ok,, 1999 Legacy Outback 2.5, 165,000 miles, unknown as to timing belt replacements as I just bought it.. Please read on... I will explain in detail everything, and apologize for the length of this post. First off... NO Water/Bubbles on dipstick, or under oil cap. NO steam coming from tail pipe... read on.. With a thermostat installed, even a genuine subaru part, the car overheats every time.. not at idle but after driving it a short distance. I pull out the thermostat and install a 'gutted' thermostat, and it will not overheat, period. with the thermostat installed, the radiator would NEVER get hot, at all, I would pull the thermostat out, and the radiator side coolant coming out is cold, from behind is burning hot.. the thermostat will come out open, when hot, and I can slowly watch it close. with the 'gutted' thermo, it will run cool and I will have heat... I ran it over 200 miles like this with one exception.. If I purposely torque the engine up in the 4k range, and then go back to idle, the heat will then get cold and the radiator will get cold... if I unscrew the cap and vent it, plenty of air comes out, and the radiator will then get hot, and I will get heat again.. I ran it for 3 hours at highway speeds and it would never even get over 1/2 hot, and I could only deliberately get it to act weird.. keep in mind with gutted thermo installed. question 1.. Can the water pump just be bad? not circulating correctly with thermo installed, and just barely when thermo absent? could it be sucking air? The water pump DOES not screech or weep at all.. could this be why their is no exchange of hot/cold fluid when thermo installed? with thermo abset will run right, even cold (1/4 on guage), and can only get the radiator to get cold/heat cold, when I torque it up and then go back to idle to then vent and then the radiator gets hot and heat comes out and all is well. question 2.. even tho the engine runs awesome, sounds smooth, great power, no bubbles on dipstick, no steam out the back, that it is leaking the exhaust into the water system somewhere? I would think that if this was the case, then it would leak exhaust all the time, and continually overheat.. I cannot make it overheat with regular highway driving when thermos is absent, but would overheat in 5 minutes with regular driving with it installed.. The car is beautiful with not a scratch on it, inside and outside.. looks like it was well cared for. I did 'vet' the car for a few before I bought it, and it did not show any issues until we tried to drive it home (200 miles), and soon as I installed a gutted thermo, it made the trip no problem and never even got over 1/2. I am leaning towards water pump. thinking that the water pump just can't keep up, or is sucking air somewhere... btw, all hoses are good, look good, and don't look like they are bad. if it was a bad head gasket or warped head, would it not overheat 100% of time, and not just when I have a thermo installed.? I really need help, just bought it with cash, got it the 200 miles home, and need this car to run... I am comfortable running it all over town, but seeing that it will not run with a thermo installed, and without thermo I could torque it up (5k rpm), then come down, it looses heat and radiator goes cold until I vent the cap by hand.. and it doesn't really lose coolant. seeing that a water pump is only 48 bux at Advance, should I replace as a cautionary measure? but it is a little bit of work. I am about to get this to a dealer, but want to rule things out first.. I know A head gasket is about a grand to do, and I can likely do it myself if I had a week to do it, but I am excellent on EA81's , just not these, and not the time to do it. I am in N.E. NC, close enough to Hampton Roads/Williamsburg, richmond, raleigh, outerbanks, maybe further if somebody here is willling to work on it...as I trust the sube mechanics here, way before I trust the dealer. PLEASE HELP ME.. I hope this did not go too long and that I answered the most common questions in this post.. THANKS!!! /mike mikldom@yahoo.com

I usually don't sleep with engine on. I have a little propane catalytic flameless heater i will run, ewith a crack in the window of course.not to worry, i do have a carbon monoxide alarm in the car active all the time,,yet to go off.

net acting up tonight.. was a duplicate post.. I cleared it.. thanks again!!!

Advance found one "Ready Radiator" all copper, direct OEM replacement, for 84 bux!!!! and it came in on new years eve, and I ordered it sunday night at 6 o'clock.. happy to report it installed perfectly, no problems, and my car is very happy and never even gets close to the 1/2 mark on the temp guage... thanks again!!!!! /mike

Awesome Idea.. Thanks GD!!! I would like to report that I followed his advice and installed a switch on my console with a 12+ wire that I ran to the engine bay and spliced it into my existing A/C idle up solenoid... I then adjusted the vacuum actuator on the carb to what rpm I want (1500).. it works AWESOME.. this is great to help the car warm up in the winter, and when I need the extra rpms for my electrical demands (idling alot, working, and running an inverter, I do a lot of paperwork in my car, waiting to start other jobs).. You have always been a fountain of knowledge and full of great ideas!! Thanks again!!! /mike

quite often, Axles.. cheap enough,, then check these: Front bearings, struts, and ball joints... all are cheap to fix..(parts at least). check the board.. a lot of posts about axles going bad, right away, even brand new ones.. I have had two 'click' right out of the box (autozone rebuilds-duralast).. even with ltd lifetime warranty to replace when bad, still a pain to change.. tho, I can do it in about 45 mins a side. others will chime in here.. /mike

I have EA81 (1984 GL 4x4 4spd wagon), with a ************achi Carb on it. It currently idles at the factory set of 700 rpm, but I want to increase this to about 1000k... mainly, because I sleep in the back sometimes when traveling, and need a little more rpm's to the alternator so I can run my inverter and the heat, as well as radiator fan at the same time.. at 1k rpm, no problem, but at 700, impossible. How do I increase the idle? is there a screw, or do I need to shorten the cable somewhere? install a spacer? THANKS!!! /mike

JC whitney is only 111.00 good price, free shipping right now.. but it is nice to get from advance or autozone, and free shipping to store with only one day transit from their warehouse to a store.. and, easy warranty issues with either one of them.. I think that is prolly worth the 20 bux extra.. thanks for the advice!!!!

anything special? autozone $138 advance same price, both are oem quality, or spring for a better performing/upgraded one? THANKS!

EA81, dual range, ac disconnected, 4 inch lift, 205/75/15 offroad tires on pug rims. New parts= radiator cap, thermostat, a host of other stuff. symptoms= almost to the red area when climbing on the interstate, goes down if you turn the heat on.. the car does not use any coolant, shoots no steam and the oil pressure is awesome. The fan works, and I wired up the ac fan to come on with the other fan, and hot air comes from it when idling. I can put my hand on the right side of the radiator, below the cap, and it is hot as hell and I cannot touch it for any time. the top radiator hose is hot as well.. I don't have a heat problem at low speeds/rpm's or idling. I am thinking that the radiator is not performing optimally. when under load (third gear going up hill on interstate at 4k rpm's), it cannot get it cool enough quick enough, even with both fans.. seeing that the solid area below the cap is extremly hot under idle, I am certain that everything is circulating good, and when the heat is on, the temp does go down, it cannot be the water pump (which is fairly new), or something else, head problems, as I have plenty of power, use no coolant, and no steam whatsoever. I want to do something.. is it better to take the radiator out and get it serviced, or get a new one? I can also get a decent looking one from a junkyard, but I won't be in that area for a couple of weeks, so options are limited, as I don't want it down too long. let me know what you think Thanks!!! /mike

Older Subes in Junkyards in/on/near the East Coast are a joke!! they are hard to find.. and they rust out so damn quick, the yards crush them. West Coast, that is where it is at.. Post inquirys in the for sale/wanted and people will respond

I know, I will keep that in mind.. I have been ripping parts out to stockpile things like calipers, etc, from a 'u-wrench it' type place where the prices are great.. I will remember you west coast dudes for harder to find parts that are needed. thanks!

i just picked up a whole disty for 20 bux I agree, the parts are getting hard to find.. I been stripping a good wagon lately. /mike

At first, I refused to acknowledge the 6 dollar spark plugs with only 1k miles were the problem.. read on. Put in all the above as you read, Even put in another Distributor, Fuel filters, another set of wires, disty cap. Turns out, when the top radiator hose decided to take a piss and shoot coolant into the nozzle of the air cleaner, it ended up coating one of the 6 dollar plugs. After doing all that, turns out one bad plug causing all the problems, I got disgusted with it.. it is running GREAT and I am happy, just mad I spent all that time and money throwing parts at it.. At least I look at it this way, I should not have any problems with those aforementioned items now. My advice is to look at the easiest and work to the hardest, and not what I did. /mike

First off, had a problem with AIV failed, - fixed Top Radiator hose got hole, dumped coolant everywhere, including intake - fixed, including new air filter Plug wires arcing - new wires installed arcing from the posts of the coil, to the insulated stem - brand new coil Still missing with not much power except over 3k rpm. she acts like its missing and bucking like crazy! will get up to speed but now power to speak of and still bucking and at 4k rpm! looking down the throat of the carb, it is clean, and fluctuating the throttle, I see plenty of fuel going in there. it appears that if I spray some carb cleaner out of the can in the carb, it will run ok for about 5 minutes. next up, fuel filters, maybe fuel pump? I am sick and tired of shooting in the dark! and it is getting expensive!! should I check compression on the cylinders? It is not using ANY coolant!, no oil, no steam in the dark, with new wires even, I can see light 'popping' but no noise around the base of the left (passenger side), two spark plug boots. new plugs were installed with less than 1k miles on them, but I will try some new ngk's as they are cheap enough. HELP! am I needing a carb? I am almost at wit's end! thanks in advance! /mike

got new E3 plugs in there already with only 1k miles.. took off the disty cap, and it is clean as a bone with no carbon.. The wires look like crap, but were 8mm, so I was trying to save them, but not anymore.. arcing at the boots on two plugs and on the wire at another. I am hoping my coil is not bad, as it is an Accel coil. Sux that I am 200 miles from home, with a fairly new accell coil there from the justy I junked.. I have wires on order at advance, and will install the new wires tomorrow and hopefully that will fix it, but if it still misses, then it must be the coil. it just runs like complete hell! it even ran fine for about 20 minutes, but then started up again.. when it was running good, I saw no arcing anywheres, but after it started running like crap again, looked around and saw three separate arcs.. it MUST be the wires.. (I am praying at least) I am going to install new fuel filters as well, the primary and the secondary /mike

Definately a Quarter! I I got it apart, and put a quarter in on both sides at the Air Suction Valve. New problem has crept up.. Since my Top radiator hose took a piss and dumped the coolant all over the passenger side of the engine, the engine acts like it is missing. In the dark, I can see arcing around the base of the spark plug boots on the passenger side. I also see arcing in the dark on one of the plug cables on the driver side. Engine running like crap, and act it is missing is one of the symptoms of bad wires? I also hear some very minor popping and see a little arcing around both studs on the coil.. can dumping coolant all over the engine bay kill the wires? Oh, she is drinking gas like it is all tomorrow, and doesn't run halfway decent unless the tach is above 3k THANKS!!

Trust me, I looked in the "help" section. At Autozone, Advance, and went to Napa, and some place called O'Reilly's. I have looked in Tidewater, VA area, Elizabeth City, NC, and Greensboro, NC.. ?(I know that is a long way from each other, but I travel),, no luck.. what I did is working good, but my suggestion is to get the Genuine Subaru Exhaust gaskets as the crap I got that matched up hole wise, with the steel rings, blew out pretty quickly.. the Subie gaskets are much stiffer, better material, thicker, and they were had at the dealership for less than 7 bux each.

gunk up the carb? I think that may have already happened yesterday morning. she misses real bad but still has power, so it is strange! I will pull out a spark plug to look at it.. but the throat of the carb looks good. I have had coolant leaking issues but solved that.. can coolant getting on top of a spark plug, cause it to overheat and fail? that valve is attached to the engine? and not the exhaust manifold? thanks!! /mike

Cool.. I can't do this until tomorrow afternoon. I would assume that it is ok to drive it with this exhaust piping into the air cleaner housing, or should I just block it off.. Meaning, the exhaust coming into the intake is not hot, and I can put my finger on the hole to block it, and it silences it, but am I mucking it up until I do the quarter fix? I have to drive 200 miles in it tomorrow, and I am sure it will be fine. Thanks!!! mike mikldom@yahoo.com

not to hijack this thread, but, West Point, Virginia guy,, I need some help fixing a couple of rust spots underneath, and it appears you are "da man", and, you are only 1 1/2 hours from me... any such luck in assistance to fix a couple of spots.. nothing major, but one spot does require a welder (behind back wheel on "frame" member support, big 'ol' rust hole... thanks dude!! /mike mikldom@yahoo.com