So the wife's 2000 OBW suddenly started vibrating really badly a few days ago... and since I knew the outer CV joint on her driver's side axle was throwing grease, I figure it's probably the axle.

 

Remembering how easy the swap went on my ol' Loyale, I figured that, weather be damned, I'd do the swap.

 

Now, I've spent the better part of the evening pounding on the axle, trying to separate it from the knuckle. Managed to booger two studs, too, but I'll cross that bridge when I get there. Penetrating oil hasn't helped yet, and good ol' fashioned brute strength coupled with a 3 lbs hammer hasn't done much good, either.

 

So I went out and picked up a propane torch kit, figuring I'll heat the knuckle. I should've paid more attention to my dad when he was heating something with his acetylene-oxygen torch. Does anyone have any hints or suggestions on this, before I go blow myself up? :Flame:I figured I'd simply heat the back side of the steering knuckle, hoping it'll expand enough to break the axle loose.

Slow down puppy and step away from the torch!

Have you seen and followed the following link for tips?

http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=80226

I don't know much except that my Subaru just HATES an open flame.

I am really just stalling for time until someone more knowledgeable stops you from hurting yourself.

Good luck.

wailing on it and cooking it with a torch....just make sure you dont damage the wheel bearings or seals.......

Typically when they're stuck in there it is because water got in there and rusted the splines into the hub. Assuming of course you've gotten the axle nut off......

 

If you replace the axle, get a Subaru OEM reman axle or an MWE reman axle. Parts store axles there seem to be a number of posts about issues after using them.

 

Too much torch heat can melt the grease in the wheel bearing and/or melt the seals.

Before you use extreme heat, try a pulley puller. Got mine out that way.

Got it out... sparingly applied heat, and a lot of hammering. No neighbors complained about the noise, I didn't blow myself up (that propane torch is a lot simpler than the a/o torch Dad used), and minimal damage to myself (one big blood blister, one small skinned spot on my thumb).

 

Now all I gotta do is figure out how to repair the stud threads boogered when my hammer slipped (can I just run a die over it?), and hope that the heat didn't trash the bearing.

Both my Forester ones were tight but one was a two or three day battle. Sure run the die over the stud and if its not too screwed it will work.

I used an afermariket axle twice and I'm a sorry camper.

You are lucky. We have had a few (actually two in one day) at the shop that refused to come out. Even after oxy-ecetelyne, BFH's, pullers and hours of soaking in penetrant. For some reason I have seen this most in 00 on up legacy and foresters. Do yourself a favor and slap some anti seize on the splines before sliding it back into the hub.

Yes I knicked a few studs on mine when pounding the rotors off. I believe it was an M12x1.25 rethreading die and it worked perfectly with a socket to clean it right back up. Without it I couldn' get the lug nut on because some of the threads rounded over.

Now all I gotta do is figure out how to repair the stud threads boogered when my hammer slipped (can I just run a die over it?), and hope that the heat didn't trash the bearing.

Depending on how bad they are messed up, buying new studs from the dealer is probably cheaper than getting the die.

 

I just did this on my '89 GL Wagon with a messed up stud. New stud and lug nut kit was like $2.

I second that. At least it is a 00 where they moved the tone ring for the ABS to the axle, early ones had them mounted to the hub and if you try to knock it out with the ring left on you break the ring:dead:

Everything's back together, and I took it for about a twenty minute drive or so. No more nasty vibration, everything sounds smooth, so I guess I get to wait and see if I've shortened the bearing life.

 

As a side note, the die cut the boogered threads well, but it required a bit of patience getting it started. The threads weren't all that bad, really... just one knick on each stud, squishing a thread or two. The core charge on the axle covered the tap & die set (cheap set, but I hope to need it only once) with extra to pick up the extra die I needed (didn't discover that 'til I got it open at home). I really couldn't stand any more hammering, so knocking the studs out was not an option. Normally I'm all for spending time applying muscle where it'll save me a dime or three, but my hammer arm is tired & sore.

 

Everything got Never-Seize on it. Well, almost everything... the studs didn't. My dad's a good guy, with a lot more "practical" knowledge than I have, or hope to have. I could always tell where he'd been, since there was Never-Seize on whatever he thought he might have to take apart again. At least that part of his teachin' sunk in.