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Here is a really great write up from Shawn for the SOHC EJ22... How about one for the DOHC EJ25? Keyway Down to avoid interference still? What about lining up cams? Thanks.

Timing belt instructions: USE AT YOUR OWN RISK!

 

Before you remove the belt set the crank. It needs to point such that the keyway on the crank is pointing down and that the mark on the crank sprocket is lined up with the little index mark on the oil pump at 12:00.

 

With the crank key pointed down the cam gears should be pointing so the ARROWS are at 2:00 or so and there is another mark on these gears that points to 12:00.

 

If all three are lined up properly check the tensioner. If its got a blue bearing its a 1 piece and needs to be recompressed on the engine to prevent damage to the tensioner. Compress it with a large prybar and then slide a pin into the holes when they are lined up. Likely a 2 person job and be careful of your fingers.

If the bearing isnt blue you have the 2 piece tensioner. Pull it with the 2 12MM bolts that hold it on and place in a bench vise. Gently and slowly (spend 3-5 minutes doing this to prevent damage to tensioner) compress till the holes line up and then bolt the tensioner back onto the engine but not all the way, leave it so its threaded to the block but not tight.

 

Next pull the belt. The cam (s) may jump so again watch fingers.

Do so by pulling only the cogged idler which is mounted to the water pump with a 14MM bolt.

 

Now, switch the gears from the old engine onto the new one.

 

Set everything to 12:00 again if you havent already.

 

Line all the marks on the belt up with the marks on the cam and crank sprockets. Dotted goes on the crank, solid on the cams and the SUBARU branding and part number should be readable from the front and not upside down.

 

With all the gears aligned with the marks take a 17 wrench and turn the cam on the drivers side of the engine clockwise to slack the belt and put the cogged idler back in. Do so by hand and get the bolt nice and tight.

Recheck marks (do so 10 times!!!) You can destroy the motor being off.

 

Depending on the tensioner you have...you need to tension the belt (like ea82).

If its the two piece you need to take a screwdriver on the tensioner and push it from your right to the left so its not touching the edge of the bracket anymore and then tighten the 12MM bolts. If its a 1 piece continue below.

Tension the belt by pulling the pin (check marks before you do). With it pulled you turn the drivers cam counterclockwise which should make the slack go away and the tensioner make it up.

 

Recheck marks again and then momentarily try to start the engine and shut it right back off just to make sure you have everything right before you put all the outer plastic and engine accessory belts back on. If something is wrong you might as well know now.

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The procedure for the DOHC is the same for the two intake cam gears (top gears) and the crank sprocket. From there set the bottom gears (exhaust gears) such that the marks on them line up with the double marks on the top gears.

When that is done there will be single notches on the sides of the exhaust gears that point at 9 and 3. Drivers side is 3 and passenger 9:00. These are the marks that line up with the timing belt marks.

 

From there you pull the tensioner pin (these usually have the blue pivoting tensioner without bolts to slide over) and rotate the drivers side intake gear slightly counterclockwise to apply tension to the belt.

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