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Which part makes torque converter installation "tricky"

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Speaking of 4EAT transmissions and that last 1/8" or so of the torque converter that's the important but tricky part to get seated.

 

what causes this? It should be one of the following:

 

The input shaft seating into the transmission?

 

The torque converter seating onto the input shaft?

 

Or the oil pump shaft (affixed to the torque converter) seating into the transmission?

just went out and checked,

oilpump engage would be the last 1/8 inch, and what you bust when you get it wrong!!!

This is what happens if you force it, and manage to get the car to run long enough to sieze the pump:

 

1015071557.jpg

Oil pump rotor is siezed to the housing

 

1016071641.jpg

Pump siezed but TC kept spinning and spread the ears out.

 

But I didn't mind cuz thanks to the idiot that F*$*$*ed it up I gotta $800 SVX :grin:

  • Author

one day i'll get around to tearing one apart. i still don't see how this all fits together.

 

so it's the larger tube on the torque converter that needs to set properly? the ears of it slide into those two ears on the inside of the rotor in your picture? the tube on the torque converter shaft doesnt' seem long enough to go in very far.

one day i'll get around to tearing one apart. i still don't see how this all fits together.

 

so it's the larger tube on the torque converter that needs to set properly? the ears of it slide into those two ears on the inside of the rotor in your picture? the tube on the torque converter shaft doesnt' seem long enough to go in very far.

 

There is a little fiber split ring in a groove around the TC shaft. When it gets old it easily slips halfway out and jams between the tc shaft and the trans tube.

Thhis will prevent the last 1/4" insertion.

 

I posted pics. See my pics.

  • Author
There is a little fiber split ring in a groove around the TC shaft. When it gets old it easily slips halfway out and jams between the tc shaft and the trans tube.

Thhis will prevent the last 1/4" insertion.

 

I posted pics. See my pics.

 

WOW uni, that's a crazy one. i always replace that, Subaru calls it a "ring seal". that's not the "typical" torque converter seating 'trick' or 'issue' i'm speaking about. there is a certain amount of "seating" that needs to happen every single time that doesn't usually happen easily.

No, there is another shaft in there that is not pictured, the oil pump is on the other side of the differential from the TC, that final "click" is the ears that you see on the pump rotor in my picture, engaging with the drive lugs on the oil pump drive shaft.

 

They are a little tricky to get in, but once they are in all the way the surface of the boss on the TC where the bolt goes, is about 1/8 to 1/4" BELOW the mating surface of the bellhousing.

 

Another tidbit: You think getting those four bolts in that attach the TC to the flexplate is difficult? Rolls-Royces have 32 (!). The trick the master tech showed me at work, is first stuff a rag down the hole so if you drop the bolt it doesn't fall inside the bellhousing. Next, clip the bolt to a magnetic pickup tool, so the bolt is perpendicular to the tool, and using the tool and your fingertip, guide the bolt into the hole. Once it's in, remove the tool while holding the bolt in place with your finger, and thread it in. Once all of them are in a few threads, then tighten. If you tighten one without all 3 other bolts in, you'll usually get to the last one and it won't thread in lol.

  • 6 months later...

Here is the picture of the shaftPicture013-1.jpg

 

and the picture of TC and the shaft together held by the C clip

Picture016-1.jpg

 

Please note the 2 notches on the side of the shaft are to accomondate the C clip.

Hope this help someone as well

 

No, there is another shaft in there that is not pictured, the oil pump is on the other side of the differential from the TC, that final "click" is the ears that you see on the pump rotor in my picture, engaging with the drive lugs on the oil pump drive shaft.

 

They are a little tricky to get in, but once they are in all the way the surface of the boss on the TC where the bolt goes, is about 1/8 to 1/4" BELOW the mating surface of the bellhousing.

 

Another tidbit: You think getting those four bolts in that attach the TC to the flexplate is difficult? Rolls-Royces have 32 (!). The trick the master tech showed me at work, is first stuff a rag down the hole so if you drop the bolt it doesn't fall inside the bellhousing. Next, clip the bolt to a magnetic pickup tool, so the bolt is perpendicular to the tool, and using the tool and your fingertip, guide the bolt into the hole. Once it's in, remove the tool while holding the bolt in place with your finger, and thread it in. Once all of them are in a few threads, then tighten. If you tighten one without all 3 other bolts in, you'll usually get to the last one and it won't thread in lol.

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