I personally wouldn't install a used motor without a reseal including HGs. So at that point better to keep the 2.5 since you're tearing down a motor anyhow.

 

I personally view the Subaru motor as a throw way motor if it goes bad, I can pickup a nice used 2.2 from a dismantler for $300-400 with a 90 day to 6 month warranty. Change out the cam and oil seals, and put it in and run it, if its bad take it back and get another one. If the car was worth $10,000 I might have a different opinion, but since the car is only worth about $2,500 it is hard to justify dumping allot of money into it.

 

Also as easy as it is to take the motors out of this car, its not a big deal to put the 2.2 in, if I don't like it, I can rebuild the 2.5 and still have the car on the road.

What type of gasket sealer do I use on the new metal Oil Separator Plate?

 

I have Hylomar Blue Racing Formula gasket sealer I was planning on using on it, unless there is a reason I shouldn't use it.

 

Also the Subaru Dealer I got the oil separator plate kit from included new hex head screws, one of them is has threadlock on it, part #800406150, the rest do not, part #80406140. Does the thread lock screw go to a certain location? Should I use Loctite on the rest?......

What type of gasket sealer do I use on the new metal Oil Separator Plate?

 

I have Hylomar Blue Racing Formula gasket sealer I was planning on using on it, unless there is a reason I shouldn't use it.

 

Also the Subaru Dealer I got the oil separator plate kit from included new hex head screws, one of them is has threadlock on it, part #800406150, the rest do not, part #80406140. Does the thread lock screw go to a certain location? Should I use Loctite on the rest?......

 

Yes, I also would like to know the answer to that one. Why loctite on only one of the screws ? For my part, i put some on all of the screws.

Yes, I also would like to know the answer to that one. Why loctite on only one of the screws ? For my part, i put some on all of the screws.

 

the new plates have a large arrow on them indicating where the 'treated' screw goes. i don't know for sure, but i assume the bolt hole for that one goes all the way thru to the oil area and therefore they want it sealed, not just torqued. i assume the other bolt holes are just that, bolt holes with bottoms. if torqued to spec, they work just fine.

 

sealant or tocktite is optional for these, but torque specs change when you 'lube' a bolt. i don't know how locktite would affect this.

Think about it - IF you have metal to metal contact in a bolt/hole you don't need "sealant" (sure, it stops leaks if something comes loose, but as a matter of course - this stuff is 100PSI max.) I suspect they must feel that one screw will hold the pump together. I still did them all

 

Might just as well loctitie them all, though, so that they STAY THERE. I used "blue" but "red" has higher holding power

 

The only reason ANY engine is a throw away is that the supply exceeds the demand (even from JY engines) and the price is cheap. You don't choose to rebuild a motor based on ONLY the motor cost.

Think about it - IF you have metal to metal contact in a bolt/hole you don't need "sealant" (sure, it stops leaks if something comes loose, but as a matter of course - this stuff is 100PSI max.) I suspect they must feel that one screw will hold the pump together. I still did them all

 

 

It's about the separator plate not the oil pump.

I personally wouldn't install a used motor without a reseal including HGs. So at that point better to keep the 2.5 since you're tearing down a motor anyhow.

 

I personally view the Subaru motor as a throw way motor if it goes bad, I can pickup a nice used 2.2 from a dismantler for $300-400 with a 90 day to 6 month warranty. Change out the cam and oil seals, and put it in and run it, if its bad take it back and get another one. If the car was worth $10,000 I might have a different opinion, but since the car is only worth about $2,500 it is hard to justify dumping allot of money into it.

 

Also as easy as it is to take the motors out of this car, its not a big deal to put the 2.2 in, if I don't like it, I can rebuild the 2.5 and still have the car on the road.

 

I don't like doing work twice. And I have to be able to give some quality assurance to my customers. Installing motors of unknown condition is not an option.

Missed that point - but I loctite everything except the crank bolt anyway If it has threads, it gets at least blue (since I don't have a tube of red handy) When I put them in, I expect them to STAY IN

Installing motors of unknown condition is not an option.

 

Actually I had the complete service history of the donor car.

Ok, I got the 2.2 in and running, but have a strange problem. As soon as I hooked up the battery, the car started flashing warning lights and dash lights. How do I disable this from happening?

Ok, I got the 2.2 in and running, but have a strange problem. As soon as I hooked up the battery, the car started flashing warning lights and dash lights. How do I disable this from happening?

 

this is your alarm system. if you look around under the dash near the fuse box on the left of the steering wheel, you should find a push button (it may be danglinig on a wire, not mounted) , press it with the key on. or use your remote maybe.

this is your alarm system. if you look around under the dash near the fuse box on the left of the steering wheel, you should find a push button (it may be danglinig on a wire, not mounted) , press it with the key on. or use your remote maybe.

 

Thanks!....