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How to remove Forester tailight assembly?


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confirm that you have remove the interior covers

 

remove the bolts/nuts holding the assy into place

and it's not moving at this point?

 

if this is the case

your Forester is likely like our 98-2001 Imprezas

 

those tails are "glue'd" into place

 

get a hair dryer or heat gun and warm the surface-seam

 

push....... hard.

 

does it move? :)

 

 

Jamie subiegal-smilie.png

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All I know about is 97 Impreza - FOUR nuts on the shafts.

 

Use a 5/16 DEEP socket (pref 1/4 drive with a screwdriver handle) to get at them. I had to remove the inside body panel to get at everything (not difficult, just a little time consuming - maybe 10 or 15 minutes) TAKE OFF THE WIRING QUICK DISCONNECT AT THE PLUG (makes life a lot easier - it's a "push the pin and pull the connector to disconnect" similar to the others elsewhere on the car rather than having the wiring "loose".) Depending, you may need to remove the plug from the old light and put it on the new light - single phillips screw.

 

The lenses are literally "glued" to the body rear panel from the OUTSIDE with some sticky stuff resembling windshield sealant. Like they said - heat it to soften it, then push from the inside and it will release. On the Imp there was a knurled post on the "outside edge going into the plastic from the inside. You might need to pull the nut on it out, too - otherwise just push starting at the INSIDE edge and it will "lever" out of the attachment. Clean off the sealant with a putty knife (doesn't need to be clean, just level so the replacement sealant will fit "flat")

 

Reassembly - IF you can get some windshield butyl rubber, you need about 30 inches of it or so. The caveat is that IF you use butyl, you likely will NOT be able to get it out later if you need to without a heat gun. Start at the bottom of the light and wrap it up and around the "hole" and push the ends together and snip it. use what you have left to make another bead above (not on top of - above so the sealant will be doubled across the TOP - where the RAIN will otherwise go. Doubling the thickness of the sealant will make it "difficult" to get it back together - doubling the WIDTH across the top won't. I was using 1/4 wide sealant so the top is 1/2 wide - 2 1/4 inch pieces side by side)

 

Ease the assembly back into the holes, put on the nuts and loosely tighten all of them until they grab, then tighten them down in a circle about 1 turn at at time (yeah - it takes a little while, but it's easier than breaking the lens) You will know when it's tight - it won't tighten any more. - the sealant will spread as the nuts tighten and seal it all.

 

Put the bulb sockets back in and connect the disconnect, then test it. Put the inside covers back on and "put a fork in it - you're done" :lol: too much information??

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It's sticky stuff - I've only done it on Legacy's but often I'm afraid that I break the light.

 

Grab a windshield tool at your local glass or body shop. I posted a pic here on the 'underutulized or favorite tool thread' - something like that. It's probably a couple bucks - plastic thing.

 

They won't scratch the paint like a screw driver when trying to 'unseat' that sealant.

 

I never tried the heat - infact it seems that I'm usually doing this in the cold but the heat and the windshield tool seems like it would make the job a lot easier.

 

Dave

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I was just trying to do the same on a 2000 Impreza this weekend. On it, there ia a 4th, not at all obvious nut hidden deeper on the upper outside corner of the tail light, as someone mentioned. You have to be looking for it to see it. I wasn't sure if they were glued in or not, so I left them alone, waiting for my service manual to come in the mail. But, now I know I'm not ripping any clips apart w/ some pressure, thanks to this thread. If you wanna wait until after this weekend, I'll take pics as I remove my Impresa tails and post them.

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OK, I did it. 3 nuts on the Forester. Hairdryer blowing hot into the inside for a couple of minutes, steady firm prying pressure out and the black goo lets go just fine. And there was plenty of goo on the salvage yard replacement to just warm it up and press it back in.

 

Thanks for all the help folks!

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