aircraft engineer Posted March 27, 2008 Share Posted March 27, 2008 CEL "knock sensor code" - How do I fix it? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
four-fleet-feet Posted March 27, 2008 Share Posted March 27, 2008 (Silly engineer, use the SEARCH function!) Read here:Knock Sensor Thread Maybe I'd better send you one of my manuals, I think you're going to need one... (Little sister ducks and runs...) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EVOthis Posted March 27, 2008 Share Posted March 27, 2008 knock sensor on the 2.2 is on the drivers side under the cyl. #4 intake runner.....only 1 wire goin to it......if you do replace it make sure you torque it to the right spec..... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
porcupine73 Posted March 27, 2008 Share Posted March 27, 2008 Hi. Yes the common causes of the knock sensor codes are the knock sensor itself (some of the earlier styles liked to crack, like the one in the pic below). Another issues is if the mating surface between the block and the knock sensor is dirty/corroded, or if the moutning bolt is too loose. The knock sensor code usuaally P0325 I think it is never means the ECU is detecting knock. It means the ECU has detected an electrical issue with the knock sensor circuit. Then the ECU retards timing to the max as a failsafe to protect the engine, which results in poor fuel economy and lost engine power. Any of the typical Subaru dealers selling parts online can hook you up with a new knock sensor if that is the issue. ie http://www.subarupartsforyou.com http://www.subarugenuineparts.com http://www.subaru-parts-dealer.com http://www.subaruparts.com http://www.1stsubaruparts.com etc (This is the older pigtail style knock sensor, the newer ones have a different connector right on the knock sensor itself). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
aircraft engineer Posted March 27, 2008 Author Share Posted March 27, 2008 oh well - I guess I get to go buy a 3/8 torque wrench. 20 is down at the lower limit of my 1/2 Something else to get from harborfreight - should have known this yesterday - I was there curiosity question - the pic arrow notation says "front side" - FRONT OF ENGINE? ("side" doesn't mean the same to me, anyway) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
screwbaru2 Posted March 27, 2008 Share Posted March 27, 2008 I just installed one on my 96 imp 2.2 I coated the mating surface w/ dielectric silcon grease to keep it clean. I was going to use heat dispating grease like I used to use on the old GM ignition mods that use to burn out. But I didn't have any. The old one looked like it rotted out from age. Figured the grease couldn't hurt and may make it last longer. Anyone have any thoughts on wether the grease will help or hurt? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
aircraft engineer Posted March 28, 2008 Author Share Posted March 28, 2008 depends on why it failed - whether got too hot or vibration or got "something" on it. The heat sink grease wouldn't hurt but the protective "effects" of ordinary "spark plug boot grease" might serve the same purpose. Upcoming trip to my favorite JY to find more parts. (first LF axle, now knock sensor...) I think I'll name it NGOO KEY-OW (yeah, like "sing" without the "si" and like "goo" without the "g") If there are any Thai speakers out there, they'll know what it means (and, no, it's not "bad") Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
heartless Posted March 28, 2008 Share Posted March 28, 2008 I believe that THIS diagram is for the 2.5 engine - NOT the 2.2. Just replaced knock sensors on both of our 2.2's and the location does not look like this diagram. (the sensor does not look like that either) The photos are of the correct sensor - it is tight quarters where the darn thing is located, but you can change it without pulling anything else... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gloyale Posted March 28, 2008 Share Posted March 28, 2008 I believe that THIS diagram is for the 2.5 engine - NOT the 2.2. They are all in the same place, and the only differences are in the connectors. BTW Aircraft Engineer, the torque spec is 23 NM, that's 17ft/lbs, not 20. I've never had an issue with installing them *snug* with a 3/8 ratchet. I have a well calibrated wrist:cool: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
aircraft engineer Posted March 28, 2008 Author Share Posted March 28, 2008 that's what I meant - 20 is as low as it goes without the screw falling out. To go lower accurately, need a smaller torque wrench Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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