s'ko Posted June 16, 2008 Share Posted June 16, 2008 I tried starting the EJ22t this weekend The engine cranks and lights up but then stops. I isolated the problem to the injectors not getting any fuel. Cylinders 1 and 3 are getting fuel, but 2 and 4 do not. Engine runs with start fluid being sprayed into the intake. So it's not timing or spark. I pulled the CEL codes 11 Crank angle sensor 21 Water temp sensor 31 Throttle Sensor 35 Canister purge solenoid. Engine harness has connectivity. ECU has good grounds How do I check various sensors? Anyone help out here? BW Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Numbchux Posted June 16, 2008 Share Posted June 16, 2008 do you have a full FSM for the legacy? that has all the info about testing the sensors. I'd start by checking the power. the #2 and #4 injectors share the same power source. I'm pretty sure that's the only common thing between the 2. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
s'ko Posted June 17, 2008 Author Share Posted June 17, 2008 I tested the throttle position sensor and it was reading low so I adjusted the sensor and the throttle and now it within the acceptable readings for closed throttle. I took a 9 volt battery and I tested the injectors and #4 is not clicking. I have a set of 550 injectors that I was going to put in later. Should I install them now? Will that give me too much flow and make it run right? Will I need a bigger fuel pump to feed the injectors? The Purge canister solenoid had the vacumm lines hooked up wrong. Not sure why the temp is not reading right. It's connected and the wires going to the ECU have continuity. Will have to see about the resistance. Hopefully I can get these issues ironed out and get the beast running. Lastly I read somewhere about doing parallel fuel lines instead of series. Basically right now fuel goes from 4 to 2 to 1 to 3 and then back to the tank. The parallel set up split and send fuel on one route to 4 and 2 and on a separate route to 1 and 3. I think that the fuel pressure regulator is something that I will have to address. I do have a parts EJ18 that I can steal the pressure regulator from. So I would have a pressure regulator on the end of each injector bank. BW Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
s'ko Posted June 18, 2008 Author Share Posted June 18, 2008 tested the injectors for their resistance and they all read 12 ohms. So that means that are all good. anyone know of a cheap DIY way of cleaning injectors? Wife and I are saving money for in vitro so soobie modding is out the window for now BW Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rguyver Posted June 18, 2008 Share Posted June 18, 2008 the motor will not run if you have a bad crank angle sensor only way i know how to test it is replace it or check the wiring going to it , its the one on the front of the engine it runs off of the belt drive cog just under the alternator . Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Numbchux Posted June 19, 2008 Share Posted June 19, 2008 ^AFAIK if the crank angle sensor wasn't working, it wouldn't get spark either. but, I am curious as to the history of this motor. was it out of a donor car? running before pulled? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
s'ko Posted June 19, 2008 Author Share Posted June 19, 2008 ^AFAIK if the crank angle sensor wasn't working, it wouldn't get spark either. but, I am curious as to the history of this motor. was it out of a donor car? running before pulled? motor came from a rear ended T-leg. It came from cyberbackpacker. He posted something about having a noise in the motor but I think it has something to do with a sticking injector. I took off the crankshaft sensor and I noticed that it was not securely tightened so I think that is most likely the reason for the sensor error. The sticky injector I just took it and dipped in into some degreaser and put it into my wife's ultrasonic machine and it it now works. it doesn't click as loud as the other injectors, so i need to stick it more carb cleaner and let it dissolve more of the varnish. I think I have all of the issues resolved. Will be working on it this weekend and help to have it fired up. BW Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
s'ko Posted June 21, 2008 Author Share Posted June 21, 2008 well it firest up right now. Runs ok. I am kinda concerned that there is potential small block damage. There is a noise that sounds like really bad lifter TOD. I had the engine taken apart and redid the heads. The engine had 160k on it and was running when it was rear ended. It sat for a while. Here is the post about the engine and the noise that it makes http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=80003 There was no bearing play when it was taken down. I put a semi synthetic 10/40 designed for older cars. Would a hew head require thicker oil or a break in period. Am I hosed.... I did take it for a quick spin down the road and it was really really fast. Hopefully I don't have to tear it down to fix the bearing. bw Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PoorManzImpreza Posted June 21, 2008 Share Posted June 21, 2008 Don't forget that these engines have hydraulic lash adjusters just like the ea82 except they have 16 of them..and IMHO that's what the video posted sounds like coupled with maybe a failed or almost failed timing belt bearing.. If it is HLA noise run it till they pump up good.. nice hold of 3-3.5k rpm for a few minutes or more usually makes it go away if everything else is good in the lubrication system.. HTH, Kaz Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
s'ko Posted June 23, 2008 Author Share Posted June 23, 2008 Don't forget that these engines have hydraulic lash adjusters just like the ea82 except they have 16 of them..and IMHO that's what the video posted sounds like coupled with maybe a failed or almost failed timing belt bearing.. If it is HLA noise run it till they pump up good.. nice hold of 3-3.5k rpm for a few minutes or more usually makes it go away if everything else is good in the lubrication system.. HTH, Kaz Will keep that in mind. Ok. So worked on it a bit last weekend. Something is wrong with the alternator b/c it is only putting out 9 volts and the battery is getting drained. It is the early EJ three wire alternator. I read on legacycentral that one of the wires is suppose to tell the alternator that it's ok to charge. There are three wires to the alternator and four pins in the alternator. One is white one is black white and one is yellow. From what I am reading, the yellow wire is the one that activates that alternator. Any clue on where it is suppose to plug into? The alternator pins look like this _ _ | | I will call the top row 1 and 2 and the bottom row 3 and 4. According to the FSM alternator page, you are suppose to test pins 1, 3 and 4 to see if the alternator is good. FSM wiring diagram have a picture of the plug [-1-][-2-] _[3]_[4]_ the white wire is on plug 2, the BW on plug 3 and yellow on plug 4. I need to verify that looking at the FSM, I am seeing the plug as if I am holding it towards me and not plugged into the alternator. so plugged in the plugs would look like this [-2-][-1-] _[4]_[3]_ That look about right? BW Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Numbchux Posted June 26, 2008 Share Posted June 26, 2008 the large gauge white wire goes to the battery. the yellow one gets a switched, fused 12v from elsewhere in the harness (this is for the voltage regulator, one of the wires going to the EA alt fits the bill just fine.), and the black one gets grounded if/when the yellow one has power and the alt is not charging (i.e. ign on and engine not running, engine running but broken belt, or failed alt....this wire is optional, I don't have it hooked up in mine.). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
86ruguy Posted June 26, 2008 Share Posted June 26, 2008 i'm not sure if you fixed the noise problem yet or not but a month ago one of my T-belt pulleys disintegrated. prior to this i was hearing an intermittent noise that i was not familiar with. $200.00 later it was fixed. (T-belt and pulley kit) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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