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U-Pull-It checklist...areas of concern


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So I had a few questions a while back that GeneralDisorder helped me with, for which I am very grateful. Last year at the tigard U-Pull-It everything was half off and they served hot dogs and soda, I assume it is the same deal this year, but I need to call to make sure.

 

Anyway, I had a list of things I was already planning on getting (Front grille, rear disk breaks, a window switch, some hoses for the engine, and a pulley and belt for the AC), unfortunately the other night my car picked a fight with a tree while I looked on in horror. I had stopped on a hill and pulled my e-brake up, I ran across the street to grab something from a friend and was planning on being back in the car within a matter of seconds. When I turned around however, the car had rolled down the hill and rear-ended a tree.:mad: :mad: :mad:

 

Sooo...the tree was the obvious winner in the fight, blowing up my back window, denting the rear hatch up (all the way to where the window goes, so I don't think a new one will fit) and pinching the bumper in half. I hoped at first that the damage was just to the door and bumper, but no such luck. I opened the hatch up and looked around, the secret compartment under the carpet had it's door ripped off it's hinges, and the body of the car is very obviously pushed in. That being said, the hatch still opens and closes (though the dashboard indicator says it is constantly open), and it wouldn't actually look SO bad if it weren't for the bumper.

 

Soo, my new U-Pull-It list now also includes a rear bumper. The tricky thing is the window. I was thinking of just pulling a window, and sticking it on, but have since learned that isn't actually so easy. The other thing is that where the bottom of the window goes is all bent up from the tree, so I don't think that a new window would even fit in. I was thinking of using plexi-glass? Any other suggestions would be greatly appreciated.

 

The other thing is a bit of a steering issue. This has happened before the accident, but always fixes itself. What happens is that the car is driving fine one minute, but when you start it up next, the steering is extremely hard to turn. You can turn right or left fine for a few degrees, but then it almost seems to stick, and you have to really work to yank it through a small spot, then it turns fine again for a few degrees, and gets stuck again. It wasn't doing this right after the accident, but then started again, then it was fine for a day, now it is back to doing it. I don't really have any idea what could be causing it (it was low on power steering fluid, but I filled it up and nothing changed). Could it be that a pump somewhere isn't quite working, or something worse?

 

Anyway, I Was just wondering if there was anything I would need to grab from the u-pull-it to remedy this, or anything else I may need.

 

 

Sorry for the long post, and happy pulling!

~Jake

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Myself, I would swap the whole door out instead of trying to fit something on a bent up door. Just remember to swap the key lock over...

 

You may be able to straighten out the dent in the compartment with some wood and a scissor jack. It just depends on how badly it's dented. I've had some luck doing so, but there's been a few that I couldn't straighten out that way.

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Johnson']As for the steering. What kind of fluid did you use...or the prior owner use? It uses ATF. Some people use powersteering fluid' date=' that doesn't work well.[/quote']

 

amen to that. i did the power steering fluid before and it used to bind up like that. swaped it over to auto tranny fluid. works perfect.

 

Ben

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amen to that. i did the power steering fluid before and it used to bind up like that. swaped it over to auto tranny fluid. works perfect.

 

Ben

 

 

Haha, well, silly me putting power steering fluid in the power steering fluid reservoir. I will switch over to ATF. :rolleyes:

 

Should I just remove all the power steering fluid with a turkey baster or something similar and fill it up with ATF, or is it more complicated than that?

 

 

As for switching the whole door, the entire back of the car where the hatch closes is bent in, so a new door wouldn't be able to close. I would've uploaded pictures but I can't find the cable to the camera...

 

Anyway, this is why I am left with the option of just using the bent up door, because it is bent perfectly so that it still opens and closes, haha.

 

Thanks for the responses.

~Jake

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Oh! I completely forgot to post the other problem up. The car has always had a bit of a squeak from the front left wheel. A few months ago it had gotten to the point that I thought my break pads were worn down. I took it to Les Schwab for a free check, and they said everything was fine.

 

For one reason or the other I didn't really believe that, so I took off the wheel and the brake caliper. What I found was that the break pad was indeed fine on the top, but the bottom was almost worn out. (the brake pad on the outside part of the car). Anyway, when I took out the brake pads one of the anti-rattle clips fell out. It had snapped and the broken part of it was rubbing against the rotor, making the squeaking noise.

 

I put on new pads and some anti-rattle clips I got from u-pull-it, and the sound was gone for a day or two if I remember correctly. Well, the squeaking started back up, and I assume it broke the clip again. I haven't taken it back off yet to double check, but I was wondering if the fact that it breaks these clips is a sign of something worse being broken, or if I just had bad luck with the clips.

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You need to take a look at the steering joint, were the column comes through the fire wall and into the engine compartment. It is like a couple of small U-joints. If it is on the way out and it breaks while you are driving you will have no steering at all.

 

On the brakes, sounds like you have a sticking caliper. check to see how hot the rim and caliper are. They should not have a lot of temp. The rotors will be hot but they should be.

 

Honestly, you need to fix both of these problems before you drive the car anymore, it is a serious accident waiting to happen.

 

On the lighter side........ remember in drivers Ed, when they said to turn the wheels toward the curb when parking on a hill??? Bet you get it now :lol: :lol: :lol: (Not making fun of your accident, just light. Glad nobody but the car got hurt!!!) Tim

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I had a similar dragging problem on my EA81 and I took it apart and replace the pads and I sprayed the hell out of the Caliper with brakeclean and got the little tube of brake lube and lubed it really nice-- couldn't afford the new caliper and it worked for another 2 year--

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