brianbarber Posted July 25, 2008 Share Posted July 25, 2008 Good evening, folks. I have a hole in my gas tank ('94 Loyale wagon) and plan on replacing it next week. I have a new tank that's identical and just plan to do a re & re. I spoke to a mechanic who put the car up on a hoist and proceeded to explain to me that he will have to drop the rear diff and axles in order to get at the tank. I think he's being a little excessive. Nothing I've read suggests that needs to be done. Is he on the money and am I off base? Second, it's pretty rusty under there. (I live in the east so there should be no surprise, there.) Using heat to loosen the rusted bolts would be detrimental to my health. What do you folks use? I've been using a product called Release All, which has been reasonable successful. I plan on spraying it on liberally over a couple of days and then taking a crack at it. Any other tips or experiences you may have for me are gladly and graciously received. Cheers, Brian Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DaveT Posted July 25, 2008 Share Posted July 25, 2008 Second, it's pretty rusty under there. (I live in the east so there should be no surprise, there.) Using heat to loosen the rusted bolts would be detrimental to my health. What do you folks use? Aero Kroil. Soak & wait, as you said. With rusty stuck bolts, I have found that alternately loosen & tighten can remove a bolt that would twist off if you just try to unscrew it all at once. You have to have a good feel for when the bolt is turning VS twisting off. Hard to learn until you twist a few off.:-\ VERY light impact can sometimes help shake things apart also. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TomRhere Posted July 25, 2008 Share Posted July 25, 2008 The mustache bar needs to be dropped off the outer mounting points allowing the diff to pivot on the front mount. No need to drop the entire diff and axles out. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
brianbarber Posted July 25, 2008 Author Share Posted July 25, 2008 The mustache bar needs to be dropped off the outer mounting points allowing the diff to pivot on the front mount. No need to drop the entire diff and axles out. I'm familiar with the term "mustache bar" with bicycles and motorcycles; it's a style of handlebar. I'm not so sure what you're referring to when it comes to the Subaru. Is there another name for the part you're talking about? Thanks for chiming it. I really appreciate the help. BB Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ivantruckman Posted July 25, 2008 Share Posted July 25, 2008 the moustache bar holds the back of the diff, if removed you can pivot the diff a little bit . no need to drop the whole rear suspention. the bar is shaped like a handlebar moustache Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NorthWet Posted July 25, 2008 Share Posted July 25, 2008 More specifically, the moustache bar bolts to the back cover of the diff with 2 nuts/studs (IIRC), and to the chassis using a large insulator bushing on each side of the diff. Don't have any good suggestions on the rust, cuz we don't get that much here. We just have to scrape off the moss and slugs... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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